First Build, diagrams included.

Hello, I am new to this hobby but am a long time admirer of the craft. I have decided to build my first saber. I have already ordered parts and they are on the way.

I have read a lot of stuff but I think it's time to get my hands dirty. Here's my diagram of my saber. It is a stunt saber for the time being, but I wish to upgrade it to a Nano Biscotte at a later point.

Attachment 9405

I think I have the idea for how to wire a basic stunt but I'll have to figure out the Nano Biscotte later.

Questions on my mind:

? Does this wiring make sense? I based it off Tim's Buckpuck direct drive diagram. It's 6v going through a 1000mA into a rebel star green.
? Just how hard is it to drill into MHS parts without a drill press? Will a hand drill suffice? I ordered drilling on the switch and blade screw but plan to add some other things myself.
? In your opinion what is the best alternative to powder coating.
? How do I make it a black core blade? Just kidding, put your blasters away. :p

Parts Used:

4AAA Battery Pack
Rebel Star LED/ Heat Sink Module Green
Push on/off Switch w Black Button
1000mA Buckpuck
8-32 1/8 Set Screw
Black Covertech Clip Button
Covertech Clip
TCSS Battle Blade Bullet Tip
JST extension X3
Blade Holder 16
5'' Double Female Blank
MHS Ribbed Extension
Pommel 3v2
MPS Insert Style 1
MPS Clip

Wiring looks fine. If you can fit them in there, I'd try to use AA batteries at the least. AAA batteries just don't last very long. You'd need a different holder though.

It's not hard to drill into MHS parts. Get something to hold your pieces firmly. A bench vise is ideal, but use something to protect your parts. Masking tape, an old towel, etc. Just something to keep the teeth of the vise from making marks on your pieces. A hand drill is more than enough for drilling in soft aluminum. Get one of those centerpunch tools to mark any holes you're going to drill. It'll help prevent the drill from wandering when you start.

Best? Well, if money and time aren't a concern, then getting your parts Cerakoted is the most durable. If you want something you can do yourself, then painting and baking. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...aking-Tutorial for instructions.

Unfortunately, I don't think anyone is producing the proper sized sheets of material we need for black blades. See here: http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=41044.0 because it's been done by one guy. He just can't get sheets long enough to cover an entire blade.

Thanks!

As far as batteries go I think I may go with a Li Ion. I'm not real familiar with batteries though. What is the difference between a 3.7v 2600mAh and a 3.7v 1400mAh? What's the difference exactly? It says on the resistor chart that 3.7v isn't enough voltage for the LED, but I've seen people using them on their charts so I'm a bit confused.

Also what are peoples experiences with Li Ion batteries? Are they dangerous like the warning on the product page makes them out to be?

I also have a chart for converting it to a Nano Sound board once I get all the parts for that. It's probably wrong somewhere (I think the voltage I chose for the battery is anyway.) The Nano manual didn't have a diagram for the setup with a recharge port, and I need to get a visual for how to set this up right.

Attachment 9413

The mAh rating is how much power is stored. The 2600mAh has (roughly) twice the power stored of the 1400mAh, and will run about twice as long on a single charge.

A single li-ion is plenty to run a Rebel Green. You can optionally use a 1 ohm, 2 watt resistor with the LED, but it'll work without one. A single li-ion will not power your buckpuck, as they require 5v+ to operate properly. Just remove it from your diagram.

Li-ion is reasonably safe technology. Unless you've physically damaged the cells, they're not going to rupture. Be sure that your battery pack has a protection circuit on it. If you're just getting a single cell, get the protected version. ONLY use li-ion chargers with li-ion batteries. Other charger types can damage the batteries and possibly lead to Bad Things (tm). I always charge my batteries on a nonflammable surface, and never leave them unattended while doing so.

Your wiring diagram looks fine, just cut out the buckpuck and connect those red and black wires. You may put in the 1 ohm 2 watt resistor on either the red or black wire if you choose. The resistor is entirely optional with this LED/battery combination.

Thanks, that was exactly what I needed. You are a gentleman and a scholar.