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I NEED WELD #3
Hello,
I have been looking for Ips weld #3 everywhere I cant find it in a brick front anywhere where I am does anyone have a store list that carry it?
<font color="red">UPDATE: I Found a Product called Pro Weld by Ambroid at one Hobby shop. It works great[:D]. It is real thin. The directions are odd though. you join the pieces then put the weld on. Strange wonders.</font id="red">
VIrus 692- [img=left] http://e.deviantart.com/emoticons/j/jedi.gif[/img=left]
Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of in·san·i·ty!
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It may be difficult... if you've tried hobby stores and art supply stores you're pretty much stuck.
You can order online but it's like $17 with shipping. I wish I could say that I could mail it cheaper to you, but the weld-on #3 is in a large metal bottle and isn't light. I could maybe send weld-on #16 (a cement, so it might be easier to apply but not as fast as #3) for $14-15, but that's still no significant deal.
I'm lucky I can get it for my architecture supplies so easily.
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what is weld on #3?
At last we will reveal ourselves to the jedi, at last we will have revenge.
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It's a glue for plastics. Tim uses it to glue the tips onto the blades. It molecularly fuses the plastics together, effectively welding them and making the blade and tip one piece.
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Misato Katsuragi: The one who deserves to survive is the one who has the will to do so.
-Neon Genesis Evangelion
Gott weiss ich will kein Engel sein
-Rammstein
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That can still break off with a good wack, mind you...so buy a few tips.
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"That's 'cause droids don't pull people's arms out of their sockets when they lose. Wookiees are known to do that."
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model cement does the same thing as that then. it melts the plastic together but i don't know how well it would work on polyC
At last we will reveal ourselves to the jedi, at last we will have revenge.
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For every saber I have ever built (which is quite a few), I have always used Tenax 7 cement. You can find it in hobby shops that sell plastic models. It's thin, so it goes on good. I just make sure the end of the PC tube is sanded smooth, hold the acrylic half-ball in position, then run the applicator brush for the Tenax around it. Capillary action draws the cement around and through and glues the tip solidly. I haven't ever busted a tip off, and none of my customers have either.
If you can't find Tenax 7, another good cement is Plastic Weld. It's in a glass bottle with an orange label. It has a brush applicator and is specially formulated to glue dissimilar palstics together.
...I love the Dark Side, but I have a night light.
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Yeah, I use weld on products for my architecture projects. When done correctly a model (as long as the plastic itself can hold the weight) is stong enough for a person to stand on. I've seen it done.[:0]
A long but skinny model of solely 1/8" Acrylic as it's biggest size held up the student who built it. Other than the acrylic he only used weld-on. *big thumbs up* WELD-ON ROCKS!
Fake EDIT: Those instructions are correct. They bond them fast enough that doing it otherwise wouldn't work. Since it's thin the liquid will flow by capillary action and the closer the seam is the better it will bond.
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Before posting did you check the Thread Index?.
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I realize this is an old posting, mostly in reference to tips flying off, so I figured to offer my 10 cents on this seeing as we do some VERY hard staged combat.
* ALL glued tips fly off--of any sort, of any gluing, of any shouldering, or what have you, period. That includeds TCSS tips, Corbin's (when he was just himself and not aboard TCSS) and Ultra's.
* I haven't tried a small retention bolt--but I think the sucker's would crack... and it's a lot of work for just a silly tip.
The solution I have used:
1. Glue with your best stuff
2. Wrap SEVERAL layers of thin, clear packing tape around the tip and the saber blade.
3. Make a few "top" pieces that solely compress over the tip.
4. Wrap again.
The tips will not come off--or at least, not until the tape is degraded so far down that you should re-do it.
It is not visible from 5+ feet away. Granted, the more precise you are, the less apparent it will be--it *IS* possible to do it very nicely. I don't really put much effort though... I only need them for staged combat.
Also--when and if the tip DOES break off--it will be less likely to fly 80 feet away... it will usually be much closer due to it having to escape the tape layers.
A final suggestion for UBER-HEAVY battlers--why use a tip at all, just use clear tape with the mirror under the tape. Should be fine for a "stunt" saber.
Enjoy! If you dare. I know... doesn't look pretty--but it works. :)
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