Electronics Check

Hello TCSS Community!

I'm relatively new here, with some electronics knowledge. I'd like to run the electronics I might be using past all you savvy people.

Here's my list so far:

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/ViewWishlist.aspx?ViewCode=99335742-d5ac-4314-ad40-6f4b653936d7

I'll be using these electronics in a 3D printed hilt once I have the electronics on hand to know their sizes etc.

I have a few questions starting out:

• On the Tri-Rebel LED, is each of the tree LEDs capable of RGB functions or does each LED have an independent colour in RGB?

• Will I need a heatsink or will the heat pad be enough for the LED?

• What are your opinions about the NBv4 vs the Prism 5.1 and Crystal Focus 9?

• What blade and inner wrapping would you recommend for a display saber for full illumination in moderate daylight?

Thanks so much for you help!

:Oleenick

Welcome to the forums Oleenick! I can answer two of your questions. For one, definitely go with a heatsink. I have had a good experience with a double wrap of Corbin film + some clear cellophane gift wrap for the blade. Then again that is the only blade I ever made. I also only have soldered a nano biscotti before, but I can say it is a very solid and great board. I'll let the rest more experienced peoples answer the rest. Have fun!

On the LED Star you bought, it has 3 light emitting diodes (LED) on it. One is red, one is green, and one is blue. So each LED is only capable of one color, but combined, they can give you RGB.

If you want RGB on the NBIV, you will also need to buy a PEX (power extender) board. They are very small, and can actually be affixed to the biscotte. The NBIV is a solid entry level board with great motion detection. The only drawback to the NBIV is that there are no aux features like blaster block and lockup, and the font sets are limited. I think you can only use 8 clashes and 8 swings per font.

The Prism is a great board, it can do RGB with no add ons. You get 6 fonts, great motion sensitivity, and aux features. Plus, you get color changing on the fly.

The CF9 is a 7.4 volt board, unless you hack it. IMHO a hacked CF9=Prism. So, unless you plan on using a 7.4 volt battery pack, I'd stay away. Particularly for your first build. There are a lot of features and configurations to set on the CF9. Prism would be the biggest mountain to climb for a first saber.

Clear, thin walled blade with cellophane wraps internally, lightly sanded with 1000 on the outside.

Good luck.

Tom

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Seth Skywalker

Welcome to the forums Oleenick! I can answer two of your questions. For one, definitely go with a heatsink. I have had a good experience with a double wrap of Corbin film + some clear cellophane gift wrap for the blade. Then again that is the only blade I ever made. I also only have soldered a nano biscotti before, but I can say it is a very solid and great board. I'll let the rest more experienced peoples answer the rest. Have fun!

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tom Tilmon

On the LED Star you bought, it has 3 light emitting diodes (LED) on it. One is red, one is green, and one is blue. So each LED is only capable of one color, but combined, they can give you RGB.

If you want RGB on the NBIV, you will also need to buy a PEX (power extender) board. They are very small, and can actually be affixed to the biscotte. The NBIV is a solid entry level board with great motion detection. The only drawback to the NBIV is that there are no aux features like blaster block and lockup, and the font sets are limited. I think you can only use 8 clashes and 8 swings per font.

The Prism is a great board, it can do RGB with no add ons. You get 6 fonts, great motion sensitivity, and aux features. Plus, you get color changing on the fly.

The CF9 is a 7.4 volt board, unless you hack it. IMHO a hacked CF9=Prism. So, unless you plan on using a 7.4 volt battery pack, I'd stay away. Particularly for your first build. There are a lot of features and configurations to set on the CF9. Prism would be the biggest mountain to climb for a first saber.

Clear, thin walled blade with cellophane wraps internally, lightly sanded with 1000 on the outside.

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Thanks for the replies, that's clarified a lot.

Would you by chance know the forward voltage of the Tri-Rebel? I was considering testing it once it arrived but I just wanted a first hand account.

What blade would you recommend? I was thinking of getting the diffused 7/8th inch OD.

Also, how hot would the heatsink get? I know the plastic I'll be using will only melt at around 300C but I'm interested nonetheless.

Thanks for your help!

Not sure the exact temp that the heatsinks get, but I can feel the heat on the outside of the hilt from it. It is significant heat. 7/8 is fine, good blade. I don't know the forward voltage on the rebels, I use crees. TCSS usually lists the specs for LEDs on the items description in the store.

Tom