I'm going to assume you were using a 9v battery? Just FYI, 9v batteries are only good for low-current applications. They don't push out much current at all. If your project needs more than a couple hundred mA, then a 9v battery is not going to do the job.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrant
You might consider revisiting those old projects with a different power source. You might be pleasantly surprised.
If you supply these LED modules with 9V, you can only fry them.
Come to think about it, Silver Serpent had a point there, probably the 9V battery could not churn out enough joice, so the voltage dropped. You can consider yourself lucky for that.
Use a regular 3.7V battery and these guys will be very grateful and quite bright.
As to uniformity, completely right. To compensate for that you need to etiher make a very good diffusing or increase the LED density. Or, but the same LED in the regular through-hole version (they exisst) and build a traditional LED string saber.
FoC: I was pondering on the same topic. Well, if you can detect the position of the clash, let me know, I'm all ears! That would be EPIC! In the meantime I considered a practical approach: in a duel the blade mostly get smacked somewhere close to the middle, therefore that is where the FoC has to happen. I will experiment with it, I'm sure it will look cool :)
It was a 110 to 9 volt power supply I now use for light salt water etching. I could never resolve the uniformity issue despite foam wrap and the toss diffusion tube but looking forward to progress updates. The video is a single 1 sided string correct?
Post what you guys have good stuff. And have them throw the switch
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In the video I use the 60LED/m type, 50 LEDs on each side, i.e. 2 stripes attached and glued back-to-back, summing up to 100 LEDs.
Although with the 60L type you are right, diffusing is a challenge, I just tried today the newest 144L type, with an transwhite heavy duty TCSS type blade with a diffusing tube inside, and it's very uniform even without any additional layer of diffusion.Very promising!
Are the 9v, all of the rgb accent strips, similar to these, that I have ever built into trade show displays and cabinetry were intended to be used with the 12v ac-dc converters. Just asking I did not check the specs, just looked identical to most other accent lighting strips sold for cabinets and home accent lighting.
I wonder if you could use a strain gage at the base of the blade to detect deflection. You'd have to figure out an algorithm that would compare the strain gage output to the accelerometer input, because the blade would flex differently at different speeds and hit strengths, but I think you'd be able to figure out the point of impact from initial speed X, impulse Y, and blade flex Z.
I saw these a while back and thought the exact same thing! Maybe turn on LEDs off and on rapidly to make a strobe saber xD
Awesome keep up the work, my original post wasn't meant to be discouraging
How would one eventually program for ignite, shimmer, clash, shut down? Would these require an additional arduino style pub or will what plector have today be able to control the effects and rgb changing?
Once I get most of my sabers for the year done, I'm looking to start work on a rgb string that should be able to be controlled by any of t b en cards with color mixing
I'm currently working on an Arduino breakout board called DIYino, which will be able to handle all 3 types of blade/lighting styles
- HP LED
- LED strings
- neopixel
But Erv's CF_LS could be uses as well for this purpose if the proper algorithm is included in the code. To give you a feeling, based on the algorithms found on the net, I was able to tweak my code to drive neopixels instead of LED strings in a matter of a few hours. If I could do that Erv could do that on an even higher level.
I wrote CF_LS, because you will need those 6 lowside switches. Not for the same purpose as for an LED string, but need you do them still :twisted: