No, you cannot switch the sounds on these sound boards. The boards are also different from the Master replicas versions.
No, you cannot switch the sounds on these sound boards. The boards are also different from the Master replicas versions.
I tried to convert mine as well but in the end I have no more sound. The LED works fine but the sound is just gone. Any ideas?
Is this the same process as the 05 ROTS Anakin?Quote:
This tutorial will show you how to use the store's conversion kit for your removable blade version of the Hasbro Signature Series FX lightsaber using the kit available in the store. It will convert the saber to a single, in-the-hilt-led syle which will allow for a brighter blade than stock. The scrolling blade extension/retraction effect will be lost if you do this, so keep that in mind.
Parts list:
Hasbro Anakin Skywalker Signature Series FX lightsaber
TCSS Conversion kit for this saber - BE CERTAIN YOU BUY THE CORRECT KIT!!! THE MR KIT WILL NOT FIT THIS HILT!!!
Lens*
Lens holder*
Luxeon Rebel or Seoul P4 led
Thermal adhesive pad
Replacement clash sensor
*type of lens and holder will depend upon your led selection. Make sure you get the correct lens and holder for your led choice.
The saber in stock form:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1436.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1437.jpg
Begin by removing the blade retention screw:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1438.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1439.jpg
Next, remove the small phillips head screws securing the base ring:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1440.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1441.jpg
Lift off the base ring and set aside. Do not lose the screws! These will be reused later.
Rotate the saber and remove the large copper cap:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1443.jpg
I find it sometimes helps to heat this with a hair dryer to loosen the glue holding it in place. Pry it loose very carefully with a small precision flat bladed screw driver:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1444.jpg
Carefully work the copper cap from both sides to avoid damage:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1445.jpg
When removed, you will see one small phillips head screw. Remove it, and retain it for later:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1446.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1447.jpg
Lift off the plastic base plate:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1448.jpg
Next, you will need to remove the hex head screw just in front of the copper cap:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1449.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1450.jpg
WARNING: This is a "safety" type screw, meaning there is a "post" in the center of the hex key hole to prevent removal. If you do not have a safety type Allen wrench, a standard type can be used to remove the screw, but it will be difficult, and you may damage the screw. IF you happen to damage this screw, don't worry, the replacement blade socket in the kit accepts 10-32 screws, so a 10-32 button head cap screw will work just fine instead.
Once you have that screw removed, you will need to remove the gold pins in the "recharge sockets":
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1451.jpg
A pair of small needle nose pliers works for this step. Just pull the pins with a steady and straight pressure, they should come right out:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1452.jpg
Now you will need to remove the control box:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1453.jpg
This is another situation where a hair dryer may help you prevent damage to the parts. Heat it up towhere it is simply warm to the touch, then carefully, gently pry the gold plate starting at one end:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1454.jpg
Once it starts to come free, move to the other end:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1455.jpg
You should then be able to get it free far enough to pry in the center, and remove it.
There are two screws holding the control box in place:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1456.jpg
Once you have those out, lift the control box from the clamp ring:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1457.jpg
You will find two blue wires coming from the activation switch:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1458.jpg
DO NOT CUT THEM, unless you want to have to re-solder them later. The easiest way to remove the switch box is to simply remove the screw holding the switch in place:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1459.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1460.jpg
Once the switch is loose from the control box, it can then be pushed into the hilt through the hole:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1461.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1462.jpg
If you have not done so already, remove the pommel cap and remove the battery pack:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1463.jpg
Remove the stock plastic blade socket:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1464.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1465.jpg
Using the handle of a screw driver, push the soundboard housing out the front (emitter end) of the hilt:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1466.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1467.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1468.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1469.jpg
Using a pair of diagonal cutting pliers, crack open the housing:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_6178.jpg
The seam along the side of the housing should split. Do both sides, then lift off the top.
Cut the blade interface pin housing off:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1587.jpg
Separate the wires on the board:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1588.jpg
The wires are as follows: Brown, Red, Orange, Yellow, Green and Blue are the positive leas for the main led. These can be bundled together and will go to the main blade led's positive pad, or simply removed from the board altogether and replaced with a single wire. This tutorial will cover removing them entirely. The violet and gray wires are the blade cut-off switch. These will need to be connected to each other later, and do not need to be removed, but it may be easier to do so if you choose to follow that route. The white wire is the negative for the clash sensor. If you did not order a replacement sensor, de-solder and remove the stock one from the blade connection housing on the blade. There are two screws securing the sound board to the housing, remove those to allow you to remove the sound board. This will make it easier to re-wire the board.
Remove the board from the housing, de-solder and remove the wires from the board. Clean the pads off using a de-solder wick, or copper braid.
With the board removed, add a jumper across the positive pads:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1590.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1591.jpg
A piece of wire from a resistor work well for bridging the pads:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1592.jpg
Once the pads are bridged, cut off the excess using the cutting pliers or a hobby knife. Then solder another jumper across the other three pads, and connect the two pieces of jumper:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1594.jpg
Now you can add the clash sensor back on to the board directly:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1597.jpg
The clash sensor should fit right into the hole the white wire came from, and the negative pad for the led string (where the gray came from). Bend the tabs to fit into the holes marked "IMP" and "GND1":
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1598.jpg
Solder it in place by soldering to the underside of the pads, but wait to solder the thin wire until you complete the next step.
Next, add the gray wire to the hole with the thin wire from the clash sensor:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1595.jpg
Then the purple to the pad labelled "PRE":
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1596.jpg
Add the positive for your main led on any of the pads labelled "Lx":
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1600.jpg
Now bundle the grey and purple wires together:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1601.jpg
Now is a good time to assemble the new led. Start by soldering a short length of wire to one negative and one positive pad on the led as shown below:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1550.jpg
Attach the led to the copper heatsink using the thermal adhesive pad.
Snap the lens into the lens holder:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1551.jpg
Fit the lens on top of the led:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1552.jpg
Screw the led/heatsink/lens assembly into the new blade holder:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1553.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1554.jpg
Do not over tighten. you can damage the lens if you do. You should now see the lens in the blade socket:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1555.jpg
With the led assembled into the blade socket, check your wire lengths:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1602.jpg
Add the negative for the main blade led, add some heatshrink to the wires, then make the connections to the blade led:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1603.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1604.jpg
Add your battery pack and test:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1605.jpg
Success!
Now shrink the heatsink wrap:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1606.jpg
Re-attach the sound board to the housing, then add the cover:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1607.jpg
A piece of clear packing tape works great for securing the top of the housing.
Re-assembly can now begin!
Start by sliding the housing back into the hilt:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1608.jpg
Make sure the housing lines up properly with all of the mounting holes in the hilt and the clamp ring:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1609.jpg
Make sure the blade socket is in properly and aligned, then re-insert the original blade socket retention screw:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1611.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1612.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1613.jpg
Pull the switch out using tweezers or small needle nose pliers:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1610.jpg
Re-install the switch in the control box:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1614.jpg
Then re-install the control box and the gold plate. hot glue works for re-attaching the gold plate.
Re-install the blade retention screw base plate:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1615.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1616.jpg
Re-install the copper button plate:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1617.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1618.jpg
Re-install the copper button:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1619.jpg
Re-insert the battery pack:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1620.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1621.jpg
Activate the saber:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1622.jpg
Now turn it off, and re-install the blade retention screw, then look into the emitter socket and using a sharpie marker, mark off the screw:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1623.jpg
The screw will need to be shortened:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1624.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1625.jpg
Tape it off to protect the finish.
Put the thumbscrew into a vise and cut off the excess screw length using a Dremel and a cut-off wheel:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1626.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1627.jpg
Be careful not to remove too much....you can always take off more material, but you can't put any back on! ;)
Check the fit:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1628.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1629.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1630.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1631.jpg
If it looks good, insert the blade and tighten. Turn the saber on and check out your new, brighter, duel-worthy 2010 Anakin Skywalker Hasbro Signature Series FX:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1632.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/100_1633.jpg
Mine arrives today and will be converting it during this month so I really need to know as the 05 Anakin thread is useless and most of the images don't show...
No there isn't.Quote:
There's a separate kit and tutorial for the fixed bladed version here:http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...kits-available
The images don't show so you can't follow!
The Anakin is one of the easiest to convert.
This video shows some details. The music is annoying. All of the soundboards are the same with wiring.
https://youtu.be/8E8_bTYTTUU