TCSS/Korbanth K4 with light weathering

Hi all,

Just wanted to share a quick look at my third saber build.

I'm building a K4 to fit in between ROTS and ANH during Kenobi's time in the desert. I've sanded down the black paint on the emitter shroud to look smudged and used. I've treated the 7/8" blade holder quickly with Aluminum Black to darken it. The wind vane has been weathered by putting the brass parts (they seem to react as real brass at least) in a closed plastic bag with a bowl of vinegar and some crushed hard-boiled eggs over night. The grenade section and the booster section have had the anodizing stripped with drain cleaner and then I treated them with loads of Aluminum Black and sealed them with two coats of matte varnish.

I have one of Darth Ryo's 7/8" chassis and a 3.7 V 18650 battery ready. Now I'm just waiting on the electronics: a Spark 2, and a Tri-Cree XPE-2 Blue Green Red for an ice blue/cyan blade with a red/purple FoC.

Attachment 14963

Looking good

I like it!

Questions about the D-ring in the pommel, did you get the pommel from TCSS or other? If you got it from TCSS what was the turn-around time from idea submission to product delivery?
Ok, nevermind. I see that the pommel as it is in the B.O.M. for the K4 kit.
I wonder if Tim will ever offer them as a standalone pommel?:cool:

You do realize the MPS3V2 is a MHS-ized copy of an AS Handwheel. They do not have a D-ring as it would be next to impossible to have them align on a saber without knowing which of the 6 blocks to drill through. You could always ask to have a hole put in the MPS3V2 pommel if you want to use a D-ring to ensure it aligned properly.

Nice for sure. But yeah the d-ring comes with the kit for the pommel so. I'm looking to getting me one at some point as well. Will probably do some heavy battle weathering though on the emitter

How long did it take the drain cleaner to dissolve the anodized parts? If I leave it in too long I’m worried about it eating through the threads