Old string single color blade

Hello, tcss forums members

My name is Doru and I'm living in Europe (Romania).
I was about 7 or 8 years old when I first watch "A New Hope".
And now, at almost 47 years, I finally start the process of building a dream of my childhood: my first lightsaber (at least I just bought some parts for now).
Some MHS1 hilt parts, 1" pc tubes (one transparent, one transwhite), blade tips, tcss diffuser tube.
And 2 cheap (about 18 USD/strip) WS2812B neopixel strips. Just in case.

I'd like to keep it simple, as close as screen is possible. I mean the light and sound effects, not screen-accuracy hilt.
So I'm not interested in effects like sauron, rainbow, flame and such.

I will not use the saber for duelling. Just cossplay.

I would like to have the ignition/retraction scroll effect.
Flash on clash, yes, that would be nice, too.
Lock-up, blast, drag, melt...not really interested, anyway they are implemented in most soundcards now, as I understand.


Here comes the dilemma:
I really like to build a simple, segmented string blade. Simple means single color, classic 5 mm.LEDs, not neopixel LEDs. So no second, white LEDs string (yeah, no white FoC in that case).
Or I could build a neopixel strip blade.
I've read a lot and change over and over my decision between neo 144 strips - in hilt tricree - classic string.
Now 'm sure I don't want in-hilt LED.
Anyway, there's something about the classic LED string blade that makes me to think "I really like to build one of that instead of a neo 144 string blade".

Problem is the soundboard and nowadays standards.
The single soundcard found to support classic segmented strings is Proffie.
I've read about Proffie, I watched some videos, still I'm not sure if Proffie + classic segmented strings can scroll up and down the blade.
Some years ago there was the serriallel class connection and 7.2 v.for that kind of things.
Now Proffie uses just a single, 3.7 battery and six segmented strings.
I dont know almost anything about programming, nor about electronics.
I mean I would not be able to put together a Teensy V1, for example, but I have no problem using a soldering gun with good enough results..

Other options is the Golden Harvest soundboard.

Price and my needs, I'm sure that 2 options (Proffie or Golden Harvest) are more than enough for me.

Problem is, Proffie support string segmented blade, but does not seems that user friendly. I've read a bit about on wiki, I watched some videos.
It seems doable for a basic install and (default) configuration, but I'm not sure I will be able to manage even the easy tweeks if I would want to.
On the other side, Golden Harvest seems to me easier and ready to go even out-of-the-box. But no scroll effect for a string blade, just like an in-hilt LED set-up.

I can't afford too expensive (read Adafruit) neopixel strips.
Cheaper strips could have some problems.
LED's seems to me more reliable in that respect. And seems least prone to shadowing, easier to diffuse, more battery-friendly compared to strips. Of course, there are cons, too about classic strings. Also, doesn't seems a big deal to me that a blade can't change the color (classing strings versus neopixel strips). Also I suppose string-blade option could easily become much expensive than neopixel blade if I decide I want more than one color blade.

So, decisions and decisions.

What to do?

Question is: does Proffie scroll up and down when segmented string blade is used?

All above it's more or less thinking out loud, because I guess nobody else but me can take the final decision.

But I hope you will clarify me if my assumptions are wrong.

Thank you for your patience and help.

You might be able to score a Crystal Focus LS 6.5 still. I know I still have mine, but have already soldered to it. I would ask around and see if anyone has one unused that they would be willing to part with. That board does support the component blade that you describe.

My question to you is why you specifically want to avoid RGB strip blades. If it's just a personal preference or design choice, I understand and respect that. If price is an issue, there are many sellers on Amazon and eBay who offer cheaper strips in the $15 range. That would be $30 for a two-strip blade. I have purchased from Chinly on eBay and found their strips to be functional and adequate for my needs.

When I bought my cheaper strips, I did burn two of them. That may have been because I wanted to use translucent heat shrink as a first-stage diffuser material. I'm thinking the heat gun was set too high and loosened some of the solder joints in the strips. I have since stopped doing that. The method I used was to lay out some clear packing tape, adhesive-side up, tightly roll some white packing foam sheet around the strips in 12" sections (the roll was perforated), trim and roll onto the packing tape to seal. I have seen no seams or shadows, and the thickness of the roll can be controlled for a snug, but comfortable fit.

For your first saber, I really would not recommend going full-bore on it. Proffie seems to me a board for DIY folks, who don't mind a lot of work to get it up and running (I don't own one...this is based off of what I've read, and people I've talked to). I have had many successes with Plecter Labs products in the past, and recommend those boards as a result. If you decide you really want the "classic" component blade as you described above, the CF LS is what I would suggest. I got it working with a few short segments, but never completed the install. Too much soldering, and too high a risk of damage to the string blade in my opinion, so I shelved it.

I think that's everything. Probably not. :D

Well, here are my thoughts:

CF LS’s are incredibly hard to come by these days. You’d be better off with a CFX.

Neopixels are way more durable than old style string blades. FoC usually looks better with a second color. I would also avoid getting cheap pixel strips that you get online. Better to save your money and spend it once, than spend it multiple times.

Thank you for your advices.

I was thinking about the old classic string blade mainly for the pleasure of building.
The other reason is battery friendly.
I have never seen a lightsaber in real life.
So my assumption about brightness, uniformity, less shadowing vs.neopixel are based only on what I've read.
I am still somewhat scarred of Li-Ion batteries, even protected ones and yes, I know how stupid is this, but that's me.
Anyway, at first I was thinking that an in-hilt tricree, a photon blade and 3 Eneloop Pro (3.6v.and 2.5 A) is good enough for my needs.
Than I read about classic string and finally the neopixel strips and I forget about Ni batteries.
Still don't know if Proffie still support segmented string blade scroll effect.
Anyway, it seems that I will (try to) build a neopixel saber.

Thanks again.

You’re going to need li-ions, ESPECIALLY if you do a Neopixel build. You’re not really going to get around that. The ones in the store are safe, as long as you’re not completely stupid in handling them.

I know for neopixel blades there's no other way than Li-Ions.
I like to think about myself that I'm quite decent and carrefully, generally speaking. :)
Thanks.

When I start building, I will post pictures if that's ok.
And I'm sure that I will need help, no matter how many tutorials about lightasaber building I read or watch.

That’s fine. There is no need to be scared of Li-ion batteries. I’ve been using them for the nearly 15 years I’ve been in the hobby.

Hello again!

Today I bought the last items needed for saber: a charger and a Keeppower 18650 battery. Unfortunately I did not found (in my country) 15A discharge rate battery, so I bought a 10A battery.
It's the first time when I see an 18650 battery (mean in real life, not pictures on the net).
That's why I'm asking you for help, 'cause it not seems ok to me.
I'm not sure I know how to explain, so I took pictures.
Anyway, it seems to me that the battery has a small deformation on top, like the metallic strip connector (the one that you can "see" and feel under the wrap) from top to bottom is too long.
I'm not sure at all that it's ok and of course I don't want to risk anything.
I put it in the charger, started from 3.6v., now it shows 3.93v. Still charging, no overheating.
What do you think? It is safe to use or should I return to sender?

Thank you very much.Attachment 18056Attachment 18057

That is fine. It’s the battery’s PCB.

Thank you.
Well, then that's good news.
I hope tomorrow I'll have some free time to start building the saber.

Saturday evening I wired everything outside the hilt and all good!
Sound, brightness (oh, my God! undifussed, out of the pc tube, even thise cheap chinese neopixel strips are incredible bright).
Then I start building the blade and the result was quite dissapointing.
First I follow the instructions posted by experienced sabersmiths.
So, 6 inches of packing foam, then 6 feet of cellophane.
It was not enough, not even close.
Then I used approx.15 inches of packing foam (0,019 inches thick), then a lot of cellophane, then a TCSS diffuser tube.
The blade tube is 1 inch, transparent.
I lost a lot of brightness.
If I use less foam or cellophane, the strips start rattling inside the tube.
I am missing something?
Of course, being my first blade construction, I did expect some troubles, but for my eyes is too much lost of brightness. You can stare at it with no eye strain...'cause it looks like and old, dusted neon tube.
And no, I dont want a sunbrightness blade.
I will rebuild the blade, forget about diffuser tube an add more cellophane.
Or less packing foam and even more cellophane.

After all information, tutorial and videos on the forums, I'm pretty sure this is not a case of unrealistic expectation.

Thank you.

L.E.:
I'm using a 8 pins GX-16 connectors.
I bridged pins 1, 2 and 3, then I soldered one 20 gauge wire for positive power.
I bridged pins 4, 5 and 6, then I soldered one 20 gauge wire for negative power.
I also bridged all three negative pads on the soundboard, accordingly to user manual.
Pin 7 is the data and has 24 or 26 gauge wire.
Because I was literally shocked by how bright were the strips before diffusion, I suppose the power wiring is ok.

L.L.E.
I pull out the plastic diffuser and the result was a lot of corncobbing.
So, the diffuser is doing a very good job.
Next days I'll pull outsome foam and I'll use a bit more cellophane.

Finally, it is done!

https://youtu.be/n7_VAWPmIj0
https://youtube.com/shorts/PLjLBnMSc04?feature=share

The purpose of the first video is to show the final product and how it works.
It's not about my poor, beginner skills of spining the saber (LOL!) .
Also please ignore the surroundings (the mess around in the room).

The bad: there are more shadows and blemishes than I expected
The good: the shadows are no near as disturbing as I was affraid.
In fact, cosplaying with saber, shadows and even the blemishes are barely visible.
Still, I would like to rebuild the blade or at least to clean out the policarbonate tube and the diffuser.

Things to improve:
As I said, some day I will try to rebuild the blade.
And try some white PCB neopixel LED strips.Attachment 18059Attachment 18060Attachment 18061Attachment 18062Attachment 18063Attachment 18064Attachment 18065Attachment 18066Attachment 18067Attachment 18068
Also I should replace the blade holder, for two reasons: first, aesthetical reasons. Now the hilt is too simple looking. Of course, I could use paint, learn weathering techniques, leather, 2 or 3 rings of aluminum or plastic at the blade end of emitter, whatever it takes to personalize the hilt, but the second reason still remain: the outer diameter of the hilt.
Don't get me wrong, I like it very much, it feels perfect for my hands and it looks...I dont know, it looks authentic.
The only problem with the diameter of the hilt is spinning.
That's why I would try another blade holder, with different section diameters, something like a choke.
I learned to spin using a broom, weeks before building the saber.
Still, I dropped the saber one or two times.
I know, it's unavoidable and I'm sure it will happened again from time to time, still I want to do the best I can to avoid dropping the saber.

(one major problem is shipping costs: 27 uk pounds shipping only. So if I broke, lets say, the policarbonate tube, I have to pay 10 uk pounds for the tube and 27 pounds for shipping. Not good!
I dont want to build more sabers, so buing many items at once and pay the shipping once is not a solution.
The pc tube was just an example, I know, being practically indestructible this is the least problem. Excepting the scratches, of course...)

So, in the end, even I feel it's "just" an expensive toy, I feel so good fooling around, cosplaying.

Thanks again for your help!

Now the last pictures:
And I would add few things on to do list: to find a proper pc glue for the blade tip.
Now the blade tip stays in place by friction and it's ok even after spinning the saber, but I suppose I would have to glue it someday.
I enjoy building the internal chassic using old times methods and materials. But some day I will probably print (or buy a ready-made) 3D printed internal chassis.

Attachment 18069Attachment 18070Attachment 18071


And, last, some technical details:
Hilt parts: MHS
Sound: Golden Harvest and one KR 28 mm., 3w., 4 ohmms speaker.
Battery: Keeppower 18650, 3500 mAh, 10 A max.discharge rate. Unfortunatelly I didn't find a 15 A max.discharge rate battery.
I don't have installed (yet) a recharge port.
So, I unscrew the flutted part of the hilt, take out the battery, put it in the charger (Xtar X2, if it's ok to mention it here), then back in the saber.
The parts of the first internal chassis were glued together using some plastic glue (seen in the pictures attached. Then I rebuild it and I used only hot glue gun, but I forget to take pictures. Anyway, they are identical, the only difference being the glue used.
Also, the battery holder and all the wires are fixed on the chassis using dabs of hot glue gun.

I used a hand held drill and I dont have even a vice. Still I was lucky enough to drill surprinsingly good holes for buttons, still they are obviously far from perfect.

The sound is good enough even is less than 1 inch from the bottom of the hilt (if I remember correct, the speaker is at approx.0,7 inch from the end of the hilt). Surprisingly, it sounds low enough, but of course I will try to extend the distance, for testing purposes.

One of my favourite blade color is arctic blue.
First I set it to 0, 1023, 1023 (RGB, 1023 being the maximum value).
Very soon I found it too bright for my eyes, so I go down to 0, 700, 900.
I'm not so sure now if the green value is 700 or maybe 800, but for sure is a bit lower than blue and I like it more that way.
Another blade colors are green (0, 1023, 0), blue (0, 0, 1023), crimson red one (1023, 600, 0) and a much appealing crimson red, but again I dont remember the exact values (but it is for sure 1023 red and arround 60 green).

It's 10:58 P.M. here and I'm preparing to going to sleep, so it's a bit late to pull out the card from the saber now, put it in my computer and read the blade color values.

But if someone is interested in exactly RGB values I'm using, just let me know so I'll post it here tomorrow.

Once again, thank you for your help and patience.

Yesterday I installed a recharge socket.
Also I made an adapter from charger slot to hilt recharge socket.
Neither the inside of the hilt (internal chassis), nor the adapter for charging the saber are aesthetical looking good, I know.
But so far it works well.

Charging adapter:
A wooden broom handle, 2 coins, 20 awg gauge wires, hot glue, soldering iron.
I cut a piece of 6 cm.long (about 2.3 inches) from an wooden broom handle.
I soldered the wires to the coins then I glued the coins to the broom handle piece.
I wrapped everything with black electrical tape, to keep the wires together and for some aesthetical reason.

Attachment 18073Attachment 18074Attachment 18075

Oh, and crimson R=1023, G=0, B=60 with Darth Vader OT soundfont has become my favourite blade.

Nice job! Its a great feeling to have it finally done and to light it up! Also very clever with the charging adapter.

Thank you.
Indeed it's a great feeling.
Partly because I was able to built it myself.
And partly because sometimes I feel like I have a real saber in my hand.
Maybe that sounds childish, but isn't it mostly about the child within?

When the force is too strong...:D


Attachment 18102