Choke at the Pommel?

Has anyone ever used a choke at the pommel end to add a little elegance? I have an idea for a hilt design like this
https://flic.kr/s/aHsmGcyEFd
But I would like to have the speaker all the way out at the pommel to minimize internal reflections within the hilt. I can't seem to find the internal dimensions on the MHSv1 choke parts. Not sure if a 28mm bass speaker would fit in the female end of the choke in front of the pommel threads.

The locking speaker holder won’t fir. The internal diameter of the chokes are .8” you can get a speaker mount without the threads (I believe it’s speaker holder 4) however, you have to come up with a way to keep it in place.

The speaker itself WILL fit all the way down in the pommel (any pommel that can fit the standard disks, that is) but you'll need something to hold it in place. That's where you're gonna have to get crafty, because none of the speaker mounts that I know of will really fit perfectly for this situation. You might try making a fixture that can fit snugly in the female part of the choke and attach that to the speaker to hold it down there (you can stick the back of the speaker to it with some kind of adhesive pad, or even glue, just be careful not to get any inside the speaker).

Let us see it if/when you get it done!

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Originally Posted by Acceleryx

The speaker itself WILL fit all the way down in the pommel (any pommel that can fit the standard disks, that is) but you'll need something to hold it in place. That's where you're gonna have to get crafty, because none of the speaker mounts will really fit for this situation. You might try making a fixture that can fit snugly in the female part of the choke and attach that to the speaker to hold it down there (hot glue it to the back of the speaker if you have to, you'd be surprised how well that works for space economy).

Let us see it if/when you get it done!

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I was actually thinking that if the inner diameter of the female threaded end was close to 28mm, the choke itself would be the speaker holder with the addition of some sticky putty like Madcow uses in his speaker video. The pommel would thread into the choke and serve the dual purpose of holding the speaker in place on one side (the restriction of the choke would hold the other side) and also act as a short echo chamber. I could then run the speaker wires through the choke and terminate them in a jst connector to make removing the soundboard chassis easier - any excess wire to the speaker to allow for disassembly would slide into the pommel side choke. This assumes the female choke threads are themselves at least 28mm or more - which is why I was curious about the ID of the female choke threads.

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Originally Posted by thayes

I was actually thinking that if the inner diameter of the female threaded end was close to 28mm, the choke itself would be the speaker holder with the addition of some sticky putty like Madcow uses in his speaker video. The pommel would thread into the choke and serve the dual purpose of holding the speaker in place on one side (the restriction of the choke would hold the other side) and also act as a short echo chamber. I could then run the speaker wires through the choke and terminate them in a jst connector to make removing the soundboard chassis easier - any excess wire to the speaker to allow for disassembly would slide into the pommel side choke. This assumes the female choke threads are themselves at least 28mm or more - which is why I was curious about the ID of the female choke threads.

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I wish I had one on hand to check and make sure, but I don't... so what the heck, why not give it a shot? I can tell you that if necessary you can sand the outside of a 28mm speaker down *just a little bit* without impeding its functionality. I did that once to fit one into an ASP hilt, so you could probably get the speaker down to 27mm that way. Every little bit counts.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thayes

I was actually thinking that if the inner diameter of the female threaded end was close to 28mm, the choke itself would be the speaker holder with the addition of some sticky putty like Madcow uses in his speaker video. The pommel would thread into the choke and serve the dual purpose of holding the speaker in place on one side (the restriction of the choke would hold the other side) and also act as a short echo chamber. I could then run the speaker wires through the choke and terminate them in a jst connector to make removing the soundboard chassis easier - any excess wire to the speaker to allow for disassembly would slide into the pommel side choke. This assumes the female choke threads are themselves at least 28mm or more - which is why I was curious about the ID of the female choke threads.

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This might work, if you use speaker holder v4. It is a way better option than the other suggestion that I’ve seen mentioned (which I would never, EVER recommend).

The main thing is you don't want your speaker bouncing around, and ideally it would be held snugly and as far from the pommel cap as much as you can manage in this setup. The speaker will generally sound better if the front and back are isolated from each other, and you want a volume of air in front of the speaker.

You could try using a loop of craft foam that would both snug it in and serve to stand it off from the pommel cap. You could also try drilling out the back end of a speaker holder with a step bit or something, and putting it in backwards.

I'm not sure what the geometry is here, but nothing is going to explode if you try a couple of cheap hacky things first. Just be careful not to get hot glue into the speaker if you try that. In the infamous words of Adam Savage, "sometimes good enough is good enough." Just keep in mind that sometimes "good enough" is really "good enough for now" and means "I'll end up having to fix this later."