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I have started my first saber build and have decided to go neopixel for the blade. I hage watched a few tutorials on blade building and have learned alot. My main issue is ive seen alot of 3535 strips and can see the smaller formfactor is the way to go, and they seem to be harder to find. Any ideas on what phrasing to use that can help with searching?
There are lots of options for strips out there, whether you buy them from the saber shop, a seller on Etsy or from China. I personally use the WS2812b strips, and I order them from either Wish or AliExpress. Shipping takes a long time to get them but you can buy them for 10-15 a strip rather than 25-35 a strip. The seller on Etsy sells the skinny strips which would be great to help with shadowing, but they are around 30 a strip I believe
Ive seen alot of the 5050 strips and after seeing megtooths how-to on building a neopixel blade, I definatly think that 3535s are the way to go.
Ill check around some more as my first build will take me some time. Ive ordered some of my first parts from TCSS and should be here soon.
Ty again and ill let yall know what i find
Dave
3535 have their problems as well, the light is more concentrated into smaller spots that are further apart. 5050s work fine. Diffusion is your friend.
Thank for the feedback, being an electronics guy i know all too well about the issues that can crop up. Decided im not gonna pull my hair out searching. Any other pointers or tricks for helping the durability of it, quite a few tutorials gave me ideas. The wrapping in celophane and the foad diffusers i see seem to add some due to removing excess movement inside the blade.
Also going to possibly join dueling so any pointers on using the round tips and getting good illumination like parabolic tips?
Dave
The solid round tip actually gets pretty good illumination from internal reflection. Works better than the solid parabolic. Only thing to do is remove the mirror and it should light up nicely. You could make one strip one pixel longer and bend it over, but I don't think it makes a huge difference.
I have done a lot of testing and qualification of components and there is a lot more that can to totally optimizing a strip and electronics, but that in my experience there isn't much of an ear for that kind of talk. Use sufficient wiring and a properly rated battery and you'll be fine. Full brightness means full heat, and the quality of the color will change with heat, so driving it a bit softer will keep it cooler and increase battery performance (another thing people don't tend to listen to).
I built some custom test equipment and I was working on a series showing experiments and test data before the whole COVID thing happened. A variety of things forced that on the to back burner. I've just built a new 20A variable supply and have been working on refining the experiments for better presentation. I'm looking forward to sharing that soon!
What is neopixel
as to the OP: search for "3535, rgb, 144, sk6812".
Thank you for the tip on the extra led and fold over suggestion. That thought came across my mind at work today. I will definatly try that out when i get the strips in. I had read some people had said about possibly trimming the strip but i had seen alot more about not doing it cause the inherent risk of damage so not going that route.
Also tim, i really liked the durability tests you did. Would love to see some heavy sparring if you have any videos of it.
Dave
If you haven't watched Rob from genesis custom sabers how to video, it is a must see. Gives a great how to guide to the whole build and construction.
I havne't done any heavy sparring, just hit a tree with a Heavy Grade blade. I don't suggest that with thin walled, but thick walled survive just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by BanthaPooDoo
Tom
I can see it splitting or cracking with heavy hits. I was a bit rough with toys as a kid and have memories of testing the durability of most of them!
Also I think im gonna do a build log of my first saber. Kind of commerating it.
Should have my first set of parts tomorrow woohoo.
Dave