Golden Harvest v3 Phase 4 - Wiring Check (RGBW - In Hilt)

I am upgrading a cheap Ali Express saber (Kanan Jarrus) so I can install his font, among others. The current chassis has a board similar to LGT but isn't. Above that is a switch/USB-C PSB board that the RGBW connects to. I want to KEEP the switch/USB-C PCB if at all possible. I just want to make sure I translate everything over correctly. There are a few pads on the current board that I don't know what they are. Also, I have a lighted momentary switch and I'm not sure if I connect the LED to one of the high powered pads or an accent pad. I've labeled everything I can see and connected everything that is obvious. Sorry for the mess of a diagram. I wanted to get both boards on the same page to get a better visual. So, here are my questions:

1. What are pads P and B+ on the current switch PCB?
2. Of the six pads that connect the PCB and current board, what are VBAT, LED, KEY, and 5V?
   Best guesses: VBAT (no idea), LED (switch LED positive?), KEY (something to do with the USB), 5V (not sure).
3. What do I connect D+ and D- to out of those six pads for the USB port to work?
4. How do I wire the switch LED?

Attachment 18111

Ok. First, why are you trying to repurpose that usb/switch PCB rather than using a new switch and a seedling that are known compatible with the GHv3? Second, I would need to reverse engineer the traces on the PCB to know for sure what the pads you are asking about lead to, but there is no guarantee that it would be compatible with the GHv3 wiring. And three, why do you have the speaker wired to both the original sound board and the GHv3?

I am wanting to repurpose in order to save money, and also because the saber it cut to fit the switch and USB port. So, if I purchase something different, I feel like it would be too much work to get the new switch and USB port positioned correctly. AND, it is USB-C, which I don't have to have, but the saber is cut for it.

I can take a picture of the boards if that would help. I understand it may not be compatible, but wanted to give it a shot.

I show the speaker wired that way just to show simply where they go. The diagram is not a representation of the final product. Sorry for the confusion!

hmm... well I can look over the PCB but I would need high quality clear shots of both top and bottom of the PCB to follow the traces. Can't really promise anything though.

I understand. Thank you so much. I will get pictures asap. Here is an updated graphic.
Attachment 18112

Here is an image of the bottom side. The top will be hard to get but I will if needed.

Attachment 18113

I can't remove the boards from the chassis without breaking anything. Below are the best shots I can get of the top side.

Attachment 18114
Attachment 18115

Well. Only having one side means I only see half of what is going on with the PCB. Kinda like trying to put together a lego set with only half the instruction manual. As for what I can tell from what I see... Looks like the USB is only wired in for power, no data line connections, also no traces for RGBW, just RGB. Meaning if you plan on using quad-cree that is RGBW this PCB will not work. I also would not trust a direct USB connection to power for charging without some protection system in place, and from what I can tell from that one side there isn't any. At least not on that part of the board, it could be built into the existing soundboard.

I totally get it. Thank you so much for taking a look.

Yeah, the USB is currently only used for charging since the board is not accessible. I only included the white line because it has one now. I'm guessing it would work without? I don't have to have the W unless the light requires it. I don't know what it's used for. It does flash white on clash so who knows.

So, bottom line, what should I do? I want to upgrade this hilt no matter what. But the easier, the better. I didn't want to have to purchase everything else like the chassis, speaker, switch, USB, etc. But if that is the only way, I will.

Hmm... I can understand wanting to re-use as much as possible, keeps upgrade costs down. But whether that is worth the headache to attempt would be the actual question. Another thing I would want you to consider is the battery compartment on that chassis core, is it designed to use a protected or unprotected cell (there's 2-3mm difference in length). Personally I don't condone the use of unprotected cells as it's risky on the end user, but a lot of china based sabers tend to as a cost cutting measure. Secondly, where did this chassis come from? If it's similar enough to a normal LGT core, I know darkwolf actually makes pre-made GHv3 cores that would simplify install.

How I would personally do it (since I usually do full installs and conversions on commission) is I would just gut and redo with the basics and custom chassis for it (I have a 3D printer, but for those that don't there's always designing one then having shapeways make it). For your specific setup, components used would be 16mm AV momentary switch (light up ring of your choice), GHv3, Seedling (this is only in standard micro USB, but that will still fit in a C port, or you can get a cheap Micro-USB to C converter for the external port), Uber C speaker, protected Li-Ion cell (21700 if it'll fit) and the LED with heatsink.

Circling back to the LED, white isn't really needed since RGB can be mixed to make white, so when it's there it's kinda nice since it's a purer white, but not a requirement, and quad-cree stars aren't all that common to begin with. Most use tri-cree for in-hilt.