Tips on balancing my saber

Hello all,

I did some searching around about trying to balance a hilt with a blade in it and I didn't get very far. I have all of my electronics as far back (towards the pommel) as I can go and its still quite blade heavy with a TCSS battle blade in it. It seems like if I want it balanced I am stuck with adding more weight as far back as I can. Has anyone run into this issue before, and if so, how did you tackle it? I'm not even sure if I can fit model airplane weights in my hilt at this point.

Thanks in advance,
Mike

Maybe you could try soldering/welding/epoxying a stack of brass washers inside the pommel to change the balance?

First you need to determine where you want the balance point and how much weight you need to get there. This amount may be impractical for 2 reasons: 1 the overall weight of the hilt will become too much or 2 you are limited by the space inside for the weights (which seems to be your issue)
Not knowing what you have, limits any suggestions but here are few.

For weights I would go with lead over brass, or anything else, since its denser. I just googled "fishing line sinkers" and found a product called 'twist-on line sinkers" they appear to be little strips of lead in a matchbook. you might be able to wrap them around things inside. Lead does conduct electricity so beware of shorts.

Do you have sound? Most sabers with sound will have the speaker and the sound card near the pomel so you can get to the SD card easier. These items are lighter than the batteries. Swapping things around might help but will change the sound.

Another option, if you have a MHS hilt, would be to buy a short extension like this 3/4 inch one and put it just in front of the pomel. You could then line it with a weight ring of some kind (like a bit steel or lead pipe).

Good luck

Swapping to a thin walled blade can also help, if you wanted to go that route. The thin walled blades are still incredibly durable, so you don't really need to worry about breaking them.

Thanks. I wanted to try the corbin blade so I will try the thin walled version of that first. If that doesn't work I may think of trying an extension, but I am hoping that isn't needed. Good tip on the twist on line sinker.

Yes lead is denser than brass but also toxic...iirc when I started in this hobby someone had melted lead shotgun pellets into place to add weight to their hilt but doing that could be unsafe unless one knows how to deal with molten lead safely [if you are a home bullet caster you might but I wouldn't recommend it generally for just anyone to DIY].

Lead is only toxic if you ingest it. If you're handling lead, just wash your hands before you eat, and you'll be just fine.

If you're in the habit of chewing on your saber parts, you have more serious issues to deal with than accidental lead poisoning. ;)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Silver Serpent

If you're in the habit of chewing on your saber parts, you have more serious issues to deal with than accidental lead poisoning. ;)

---

Word. I had to give up that habit years ago... Although, something about a Starkiller just gets my mouth watering... ;)

To add something actually useful to this conversation though: while lead may be denser, therefore more "bang for your buck", I would still consider other materials. You may need a little more, but it opens up your options (i.e. cost, ability to integrate into design, etc).

Here is an example of weighting the back of the saber. :)

http://i1182.photobucket.com/albums/...r/P1100606.jpg

I balanced my most recent saber in the design phase. I knew a grip near the emitter would be necessary if I wanted lower blade-weight, so I incorporated the ribbed/choke combo into the hilt. It helped immensely. If you have a shorter saber, or intend to grip it anywhere but the emitter, balancing will be an issue.

I could not believe how well the saber handled. I recommend the ribbed/choke combo to anyone.