No FoC for this build but definitely a NB. :)
Printable View
Put in my order for the following:
Blade Holder Style 7 http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...le-7-P187.aspx
Custom Mill Work http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Cu...-Fee-P739.aspx
Drill & Tap Hole 8-32 http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Dr...Hole-P193.aspx
Blade Retention Screw 8-32 x 1/8" Set screw http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-...crew-P108.aspx
Allen Wrench 5/64" Allen wrench http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/56...rench-P56.aspx
Main Body Hilt Style 1 (7" Double female threaded connector) http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Hi...ctor-P126.aspx
Drill & Tap Hole 8-32 http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Dr...Hole-P193.aspx
Choke MHS choke style 3 http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...le-3-P313.aspx
Pommel MPS Pommel style 7 http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MP...le-7-P386.aspx
Pommel Clip MPS Clip http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Clip-P72.aspx
Pommel Insert MPS Insert style 6 http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MP...le-6-P263.aspx
LED Unit (Lime) Rebel Star LED & MHSV1 Heatsink Module http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Re...dule-P653.aspx
Resistor 2W or greater 1 ohm resistor http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1o...istor-P21.aspx
Covertech Machined button for Covertec clip http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ma...clip-P161.aspx
Covertech Socket head 8-32 x 1/4" socket head http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-...head-P107.aspx
Allen Wrench 9/64" Allen wrench http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/96...rench-P59.aspx
Switch MWS Short Momentary 16mm AV Switch - Nickel http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MW...ckel-P878.aspx
LED Switch Wire 2 Wire quick connector http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/2-...ector-P38.aspx
Powerjack Switchcraft 2.1mm Power Jack http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Sw...Jack-P822.aspx
Heatshrink (various)
Kill Key Kill plug style 2 http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ki...le-2-P570.aspx
Chassis Thread (several) Stainless 4-40 all thread http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/St...read-P770.aspx
Chassis Discs Acrylic Chassis Disc for NB and 18500/18650 pack - S3 http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ac...k-S3-P813.aspx
Speaker Mount MHS speaker mount V4 - For 28mm Speakers http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...kers-P661.aspx
Speaker Premium 28mm Speaker http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Pr...eaker-P77.aspx
Spacers (various)
Amazingly got all of those things with the sale discount which is great.
Definitely getting a Nano Biscotti 2 when available.
I do have another question though, being in Australia I was unable to order a battery through TCSS, I hope this isn't too bad form to ask but is this battery acceptable for my saber with a 3.7v setup? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111652206...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT. I also already have a couple of SF chargers so figured this would be compatible.
I ordered some connectors as well with the hope I can add those to a battery http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/JS...lack-P963.aspx
Those batteries will do just fine. The whole issue with international shipping of li-ion batteries is a pain for everyone that doesn't live in the US. The Panasonics are a good reliable brand.
Can I bug you all again to check I understand using a light up momentary switch with a NB2?
The site clearly shows plug the yellow female JST from the NB2 prewired board into the red/black (un resisted) male JST from the prewired Momentary and warns the highlight LED currently does not have a matching connector.
Can I simply cut the JST off the resisted red/black wires from the switch, splice/solder the black negative together with the other black negative to the activation switch circuit and solder the red positive to that spot on the board?
Attachment 11556
Looks like the way you have it in your picture/diagram would work, but your switch led will be on as long as there is battery voltage/current applied to the board.
I like the idea of the switch being lit when there is power available to start the saber which leads me to the next question when I want the power to be fully off If I set the power up like this will it stop the power drain?
Attachment 11561
You would have to have the kill key plugged in to completely kill the power, and basically prevent the drain.
Thanks again to both of you, I think that's how I want my saber to be setup, kill key in and no power at all, kill key out and lit activation switch.
Next question if I am only planning on using the one LED (or an LED with exactly the same resistor requirements) is it normal to solder the resistor in the NB2 wiring harness? And the resistor is on the white wire I hope?
Attachment 11566
Resistors normally go on the (+) but would work on either side.