First time setup. Want to make sure everything is good before soldering.

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10-06-2018, 10:27 AM
TheMohawkNinja

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First time setup. Want to make sure everything is good before soldering.

Hello,

Finally got all the parts to start soldering, but I would like someone to double-check by (definitely not technical, but I'm learning how to fix that) wiring diagram.

The switch is from eBay and the wiring diagram can be referenced in one of the pics in the listing here. I am using the "LED on with device" configuration.

My only concern is that there is no direct line from the nano bisc. to battery negative. Is that okay, because of how the recharge port functions, or is that incorrect?

https://i.imgur.com/SUveX74.png

Thank you,
10-06-2018, 10:01 PM
Jedimika

Correct, the gray wire come from recharge port to the nano is a continuation of the black negative line. This is why/how kill plugs work: when inserted, the plug interrupts the connection between the gray and black wires, making the saber truly off.
10-07-2018, 06:46 AM
TheMohawkNinja

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jedimika

Correct, the gray wire come from recharge port to the nano is a continuation of the black negative line. This is why/how kill plugs work: when inserted, the plug interrupts the connection between the gray and black wires, making the saber truly off.

Awesome, okay that makes perfect sense. Does the rest of the layout I have seem good?
10-07-2018, 09:01 AM
Greenie

Battery negative to the recharge port (black) All other negatives should be fed from the switched negative of the recharge port (grey)
Also, the link shows a latching switch. Only a momentary switch will work for a Nano. And it's LED (@20mA) will need a resistor.
10-07-2018, 10:25 AM
TheMohawkNinja

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greenie

Battery negative to the recharge port (black) All other negatives should be fed from the switched negative of the recharge port (grey)
Also, the link shows a latching switch. Only a momentary switch will work for a Nano. And it's LED (@20mA) will need a resistor.

So, would this be more correct as far as the negative wiring and resistances is concerned?
https://preview.ibb.co/b6nhPU/Wiring_diagram.png

As for the use of a momentary switch, why does the type of switch matter exactly? I figured a switch was effectively just a gate to allow or block electron flow, so the circuit shouldn't care whether it's momentary, or latching? In any case, can I build a circuit between the nano bisc. and the switch to resolve this, or will I need to use a different board than the nano bisc.? If I need a new board, what would be a viable alternative for this setup?

Thank you,
10-07-2018, 11:05 AM
cvsickle

Why not just use a momentary switch that is required by the Nano? Seems easier than getting a new board so you can use the switch. The shop has 12mm momentary switches similar to the one you're looking at on ebay. The reason why it's important is because that's how the nano was designed. The switch isn't blocking the flow of anything, it's just a signal telling the board whether or not the saber should be on.

Also, on the recharge port, the pin with the "s/c" logo on it is the negative pin that should be going to the board, not the battery. When something is inserted into the port, the "s/c" pin becomes disconnected, so you won't be able to charge your saber if your batter negative is wired to that pin.
10-07-2018, 12:08 PM
TheMohawkNinja

Quote:

Originally Posted by cvsickle

Why not just use a momentary switch that is required by the Nano? Seems easier than getting a new board so you can use the switch. The shop has 12mm momentary switches similar to the one you're looking at on ebay. The reason why it's important is because that's how the nano was designed. The switch isn't blocking the flow of anything, it's just a signal telling the board whether or not the saber should be on.

I chose the eBay one, because it is a "proud" switch (that is, the button is above the outer ring) which makes it a lot easier to use IMO. I can do some more research and see if I can't find a momentary version of that switch.

EDIT: So, does the nano bisc. have an internal latching circuit, or is it just incapable of operating in that manner? I'd like to have the saber be latching if possible.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cvsickle

Also, on the recharge port, the pin with the "s/c" logo on it is the negative pin that should be going to the board, not the battery. When something is inserted into the port, the "s/c" pin becomes disconnected, so you won't be able to charge your saber if your batter negative is wired to that pin.

Okay, so the S/C is the output for the negative power delivery it sounds like.
https://preview.ibb.co/kR6MjU/Wiring_diagram.png