First Saber Build: Need Guidance

Hi! I'm kind of young, and new to Saber-building, so I need some help/advice on my first saberbuild.
It will be fairly simple, just a stunt saber, no sound. Probably going to be used for dueling, and costuming.
I don't want to make construction insanely difficult on myself, but I also want it to be a learning experience, and to try something new.

Body:

Hilt Style 5 (7" Fluted double female threaded connector): http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Hi...90864&Kits=804
Machined for a recessed 16mm AV Switch
MPS Pommel style 8: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MP...?ItemId=291634
MHS choke style 1 short: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...?ItemId=291704
MHS Gear: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...?ItemId=291705
MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 4: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...42650&Kits=932

Electronics: Here's where I become unsure.
I am undecided between the Cree Star and the Rebel Star LED's. I know I want to buy both the Red/Orange, and the Amber of whichever I choose. What is the difference between the two? Which is more powerful, and which would be best for my simple saber.
Also, heatsink V3 or V4? Is there an effect on the output, or the effectiveness on one vs the other, or is V3 just older, and thus bulkier?

I'd like to use a 16mm AV switch (with a red ring LED) but again, am unsure where to go after that. Should I use Momentary or latching? Regardless of which I start with, I'd like it to be latching, so I don't have to keep pressure on it to keep it lit. So should I just buy a latching switch from the start, or get a momentary switch and use a converter?
And long vs. short switch: which would I need? From my understanding longer switches are used more in activation boxes, which I don't plan on having, so get a short one?

Wiring:
Can JST wiring be used for "Quick Disconnect". Like I mentioned I'd like to be able to switch out between the Red/Orange and Amber LED's.
Also, will that create a problem. I know red LED's can have a different output than others, so what type of driver would I need? I'd like to use a BuckPuck, so which would be best?

And the subject I am probably most helpless on: Batteries. What type of battery will be best? I'd prefer not to use AA batteries if I can avoid it, for the sake of A) not going bankrupt in the cost of them and B) Effectiveness. I've looked into Lithium Ion batteries, but I will admit, I know near nothing about electronics, and wiring, and powering them. Even after research, and studying Ohm's Law I can't seem to wrap my head around it all, and makes things quite work out.

So to summarize;
1. Cree vs. Rebel Star LED and which version of heatsink?
2. Switches: Momentary or latching? Long or short?
3. Quick Disconnect for LED's and how I would go about doing that.
4. Battery type
5. BuckPuck (is it needed and what type)?
6. This is more of a personal thing, but I'm still a bit of a N00B, and although I've searched through the forums for the subject, I haven't found it yet, so I'll just ask;
How do I get rid of the title "Board Lurker". Is it about post count? I've kind of refrained from posting out of some kind of naive principle, but I will stop that and start chiming in if I have questions or a valid opinion if it means getting rid of that blasted title.

Sorry for the fact this post is a little on the long side.
But ANY help anyone can offer is INCREDIBLY appreciated, and thank you in advance.
Also I've attached what I've designed it to look like in the MHS Builder.
Attachment 13678

1. The Crees are a bit better than the Rebels. Especially with the warm colours like Red or Amber, as they can be driven at 1A on the Crees. The heatsink doesn't really matter too much. The V3 has a bit more cooling capacity, but it's pretty negligible.
2. If you want to use the recessed AV switch hole you selected, you'll need a short switch and momentary to latching converter. The long switches won't fit.
3. You can use the JST connectors in the store. If you're using a BuckPuck, you don't need to worry about changing resistors or anything because the BuckPuck will regulate the current draw of your circuit.
4. Lithium ion batteries would be your best bet. You'd need a battery solution upward of 5.5V to use the BuckPuck, so a 7.4V li-ion pack will do nicely.
5. You'd want the 1000mA four-wire for the Crees, or the 700mA for the Rebels.
6. That's the "rank" that you currently have in your "permission group" that you joined (light side, dark side, grey side). It changes with post count, so either keep posting or leave the group to remove it ;)

Good luck with your build!

Thank you so much!:D So as long as I use what you suggested, I should be fine with the wiring and electronics? That was the biggest thing I was concerned with. And as for the rank, I'll have to start opening my mouth a bit more (within reason of course ;)

One last thing, as I'm going around the shop gathering all the parts I'll need, I noticed it; what mAH battery pack would I need? Would 7.4v 1050mAH work?
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/74...Pack-P759.aspx
This is the one that I was looking at. Would this work? Also size: would it be too big to fit in the hilt?

The mAh is the capacity of the battery. It's how many milliamps the battery puts out in an hour. If you drive your LED at 1000 mA, a 2000 mAh battery will run for two hours.

Basically, you want the most mAh you can get, in a battery solution that will fit in your hilt.

All the batteries sold in the store will fit into the main body section of your hilt. The only thing you have to worry about is if your hilt is long enough to fit the battery and everything else. At 13.65" long, you should have no trouble.

You'll need a mps insert and a mps clip for your pommel.

Thanks so much. I have an mps clip and insert in my cart, I meant to say that in the original post. Two last things: While I was looking at blades, it reminded me I'd like to eventually be able to have the light extend and retract. It mentions needing a driver board- what does that mean exactly? I know it has to do with electronics, but are they only available with sound? Will a BuckPuck suffice for this?

Also lenses- where would it go and do I need it? I assume it would go right above the LED, but how would I secure the lense (and lense holder)?

The way that the light extension and retraction is pseudo achieved using in-hilt LEDs is by ramping the brightness up and down, something that cannot be done with a BuckPuck alone. Back in the day (correct me if I'm wrong, any of you long-time smiths), Corbin made an LED driver board that could achieve this effect. Although today, we mostly leave this to the driver on the sound board. If you're doing a stunt, you can't really have this effect.

The LED and lens are secured by the MHS LED module that TCSS designed. For a single LED, you'll need the LED, the lens, and the lens holder, which all fit inside the LED heatsink module.

Also for battery sizes, you can tell the size of the cell by its name. For example, a 14650 cell is 14mm in diameter and 65mm in length. The last 0 just means it's round.

Awesome! Thank you again. I'll have to see what I can do. Although that board you found mentioned it needs a momentary switch. Does that mean I wouldn't be able to both convert it to latching in function, and use that board?

Pretty much any saber board that takes a momentary switch means press once for on, and press again for off. I don't think anybody would ever want a saber whose button you have to hold down to keep it on except for very specific applications.

Ok, good to know. I'll definitely be picking that up. But would that being me back to square one so to speak? Would the 1000mA BuckPuck still work or would I need to swap it out for a resistor, or what?

EDIT: Also how exactly should I work the electronics on the inside? I know it's unwise (and potentially dangerous) to just leave them thrashing around, so should I build a chassis? If so how exactly would I do that? I looked at the page in the store for chassis parts but I don't even know where to begin.

I'm confused: I thought a latching switch was when you pressed it and it stayed on, and momentary was where you had to hold it? So if I have to use a momentary for that board, will I/should I still convert it to latching? Like you said, it seems downright impractical to have to hold down the switch to keep the saber on. The AV switch I want also only come in momentary, so what should I do?

You are correct on the switch terminology. But the board is configured to read the momentary impulse from the switch as the signal to turn on and off. It is not using the switch to kill and apply power. You press the button to turn it on and then hold it for a second or two to turn it off.

Hey, have you considered using rechargeable lithium ion AA batteries? It cuts down on the cost of batteries and the holder. If you decide to use say a 18650 style battery you can take a look at the 18650 style battery holder. I believe it is located in the sound menu.

Ok. So boards can kind of dictate how certain things operate in conjunction with them?

And yes, I'd definitely prefer using lithium ion batteries. I've seen people use the lithium ion AA's but haven't actually found where they are in the shop. Thank you for the info, I'll have to look there.

I am pretty sure AA's are the same size as 1450's.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TRON1160

Ok. So boards can kind of dictate how certain things operate in conjunction with them?

---

That is correct. You pick switches and batteries based on the board you have chosen.

AA sized batteries are the 14500 cells. The 18650 cells are a lot larger (think shotgun shell sized).

So would you recommend using the 18650 cell batteries? Would that be too much for what I'm doing? Would I be able to disconnect them easily to charge?

If you have room, I ALWAYS recommend using 18650 cells. They give you the best runtime for the space they use. It's easy enough to set them up as removable, or to use them with a recharge port.

Alright, I finally believe I'm starting to get an understanding for things! (no less than 8 months after originally asking my question :p)
So: I will switch between an Amber and Red Orange Cree Star LED
Use a 16mm short momentary red switch
Powered by an 18650 3.7V 3400mAh Li-Ion battery
And using the 7 Chambers CoreFX V2 Stunt Board ( http://7-chambers.com/index.php?rout...&product_id=63 )

The only thing I'm still not sure about is if I'll need a resistor/buckpuck, and which one if I do (the board doesn't have current regulation)

This forum is attached to a store, so for the most part the help you get here will be best for items from that store.

If you are using a 3.7V battery, you cannot use a buckpuck. You will need to calculate the resistor values. There is a tutorial here. Your Amber and Red-Orange LEDs have different forward voltages, so will need different resistors.

Yes, although it was previously recommended on this forum for me to use this board, as several others have used it in conjunction with TCSS Parts.
And could you elaborate on the difference in forward voltages? Is that a color thing?
For the Cree Stars it says all colors should be ran at 1000mA (even using the Rebel Star LEDs it says Amber and any Reds should be ran at 700mA) but it doesn't mention voltage on either page.

EDIT: So I used the online calculator used in the video, and this is what I came up with:
Red/Orange- Source Voltage: 3.4V, Diode Forward Voltage: 2.0V (The site says red and orange is 2V, correct if I'm wrong please), and Diode Forward Current: 1000mA for a "1.5 Watt capable or greater 1.5 ohm resistor"
Amber- Source Voltage: 3.4V, Diode Forward Voltage: 2.1V (The site says yellow is 2.1V, again correct if I'm wrong please), and Diode Forward Current: 1000mA for a "1.5 Watt capable or greater 1.5 ohm resistor"
So did I do something wrong, or are they similar enough that they won't actually need different resistors?

Assuming you are buying your LED here, the Custom tri-CREE page lists all the voltages. Your battery (source) voltage should be 3.7V.