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Not sure if this is a valid topic to go here, but let's see....
Anyone do some paintwork to their MHS pieces that was not pc? Tell us about them, pics are awesome! What was your process- were you happy with the outcome... Any mistakes or pieces trashed along the way?
Here's one I did with rustoleum hammered grey and a black acrylic wash on top. Gives it a very antiquated look.
https://goo.gl/photos/c1FAWnwsGewug9To8
https://goo.gl/photos/LpqUh4ozLmPmMtqQ6
hmmm… weird- not seeing anything…. just 2 little boxes with ?'s in them.
With Google Photos you can't use the Share link with the IMG tag. You have to use either the URL tag or copy the image location (right-click).Quote:
Originally Posted by Ty_Bomber
You've got some nice colors going on here.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/84...X=w376-h667-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/27...=w1186-h667-no
Ohh nice! Did you prime it? Dry brush?
Nope. Just cleaned the hilt with alcohol, painted it, let it bake in the summer sun for a couple hours. I then dabbed a rag in some watered down black acrylic paint, and weathered it as needed. I think I sealed it with only one or two coats of clear. And voila. Cast iron saber hilt.
I havent heard much about it here. But Ive been using a firearm coating called Cerakote for a couple of years now. Would be very suitable for sabers.
Cerakote has been mentioned a few times. It's a lot trickier to apply properly than paint or powder coating. If you're experienced with Cerakote (or have access to a shop that does it professionally), then feel free to use it. It's not the type of thing I'd recommend a novice to try.
I do run a CK shop. I just havent done any sabers in it yet.
I'll throw my hat in the ring again. Here's a few I did before the Slave 1 saber. All painting done at home.
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/...psvkdenyt8.jpg
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/...pseimlqwiv.jpg
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/...psjfjaormd.jpg
-Darkmatter73
Hey Darkmatter
I really like the bronzish color you have going there in the first picture. Mind if I ask how you did it.
Sure no problem, did you want to know more about the process of doing it, or more about the products I use? Or both?
-Darkmatter73
Also VERY interested! And both, please. :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkmatter73
I'm at work now, will write up something tomorrow:)
-Darkmatter73
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkmatter73
Thanks!!
Ok here goes. These are not set in stone rules, this is just how I roll for painting sabers at home. No doubt lots of folks have had great success using other methods, I'm just trying to add to the body of knowledge out there =) I do run an aerospace paint shop, but I find painting the parts at home to be most satisfying.
#1 - Plan
Decide where your paint is gonna go, and where the trickiest spots are. If you paint section A, but section B is now much harder to mask off and paint, you'll just add time to your build ( and possible mistakes ).
Also, in the case of my Slave 1 saber, multiple layers of paint are required for the weathering and whatnot.
Plan this out beforehand.
#2 - Prep and mask
You've heard this before, clean your parts thoroughly. Use acetone if possible, or even nail polish remover with acetone will be fine.
Now when it comes to tape, do not use paper masking tape. In my experience it does not lay down smoothly, and more importantly can leave a sticky residue, especially if you are baking your parts. More on baking later.
This is the tape I use 99% of the time, in various widths. It's a 3M product, and in the pics it looks more yellow than the green that it is.
I do not know if this is available commercially or not, just showing what I use.
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/...psfrjov68n.jpg
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/...psv5qsvstf.jpg
Mask off the areas that aren't getting painted. Go slowly and evenly, pulling up a bit if it starts to get uneven and then continue straight.
Take your time! This is an important step, and if rush it you wreck it. ( You've watched your Madcow, right? )
When you're satisfied with your masking, lightly burnish the edge with your thumbnail or something to press it down tight.
Do not mask, and then go out to dinner or something. As soon as your masking is good you need to be painting.
#3 - Prime
Another solvent clean is in order right now. Your hands feel clean right? They aren't, another wipe with solvent on the area to be painted, after this only handle parts by the masked area.
For home priming, this is the only one I currently use, works great. It's clear, and very smelly so don't forget a well ventilated area, and a mask. A nice light coat is fine.
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/...psnxuld1ft.jpg
#4 - Topcoat
I apply whatever topcoat I'm using within 5 minutes or less of priming. If you don't have time for both, do not start! Just a general rule for good adhesion. After awhile ( depending on the type of paint, 12-48 hours) the paint surface will go passive ( chemically ).
I could write a dissertation on the proper use of rattle cans, but suffice it to say, quick light coats are the way to go with your colors. Do not paint heavy, it could leak under your masking or worse, leave a thick bridging line when you unmask later. Let your parts flash for 10 mins between coats, so the solvents can evaporate. Resist the urge to paint heavy, just apply to the color you're going for.
As far as paint products, here is a small sample. I say small because I have what you could call a paint library, lol. Of each product line shown, I must have 10-15 colors of each if they make that many. Yep it's a problem =) And there's more, much more.
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6v2sjd2l.jpg
The sabers I showed earlier in this thread were painted with some color of one of these products.
Allow plenty of time to dry, overnight is good. Remember parts can be dry in a couple hours, but won't be cured for a week ( baking does not accelerate this). Be patient.
If you decide to bake your parts, wait long enough to unmask them first. You don't need to bake your tape on there. 200F is plenty hot, an hour should be fine. Keep in mind, all baking is doing is accelerating the flashing out of the solvents, it won't make it "harder" somehow. Baking is not a necessity, sometimes I don't at all.
#5 - Overcoating
If you want cool chipping effects, or want to clearcoat your parts, I would only wait maybe overnight. Remember adhesion from earlier? Now we are talking cohesion. If you wait days and days, you could have cohesive failure between your layers of paint. You've all seen it, where paint peels off another layer. To avoid this either 1) lightly sand ( 600 ) your undercoat to reactivate or 2) paint within a day or so.
For clearcoats, honestly I normally paint them at work with good stuff =) But I do use these alot too.
http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/...psh428zth9.jpg
Go LIGHT coats on this or it will be too thick and not flash off correctly. You will end up with a clear that is tacky to the touch. Not good.
Krylon is pretty common to use, but even the satin can dry a bit shinier than you think. Unless you are going for glossy, then use Crystal Clear or some such. If you use Testors Dullcote, be aware that it can have a
speckled finish if not applied evenly.
Now that your parts have a cool paint job, let them sit and go build your chassis for a few days while they cure =)
I guess that was alot to say, I just want folks to get good results. I hope this helps someone!
Feel free to comment here for specifics I might have missed, and thanks for reading.
-Darkmatter73
The last paint job I did, I used a self-etching primer. Got some really good results!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ls...A=w376-h667-no
Thanks Darkmatter.
I used a self etching primer on my saber, too, and it worked well. Found it at Home Depot or Lowes (can't remember which).
That's some good, detailed information there Darkmatter. Thanks for posting that!
What's the advantage of a self-etching primer over "regular" primer?
It adheres better to aluminum. Regular primer is fine for most surfaces, but aluminum forms a layer of aluminum oxide that doesn't bond as well with paint. The self-etching primer attacks that layer and permits better bonding.
In all honesty, primer *can* be skipped, but it'll affect how fast the paint wears off.
It creates micro abrasions for better adhesion. MHS parts are generally so well polished that paint doesn't stick to it very well.Quote:
Originally Posted by bunger
I think any primer made for metals will do fine. The reason I use the Duplicolor is that it's clear.
If you were to paint a fairly thick coat of say gray primer, you might see the edge of the gray when you unmask it, even if there's another paint over it.
I hadn't thought of clear primer before, but you make a good case for it.
Cerakote:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1652/...e91fbae5_c.jpg20160307_111620 by Simon Rivers, on Flickr
Thanks for the tips, Darkmatter!
I believe I have found your tape: 3M Scotch 218 Fine Line tape.
Probably, I used to use that for laying out graphics before airbrushing on cars, motorcycles, and race helmets.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kreyhn
Yep that's it, fine line is great for paint masking. Good luck on your paint job, post pics!! :)
-Darkmatter73