All ordered parts are here, I just hope my wiring plan is sound.Attachment 16641
All ordered parts are here, I just hope my wiring plan is sound.Attachment 16641
Dyna ohm is in the wrong spot, and won’t work as a resistor for the main LED. It also looks like you have the accent and the main LED wired in series.
It might not be easy to see, but there is a standard resistor for the main led in my image. (It's just a hair to the right of the battery.)
I believe the upload process has degraded the image quality somewhat, it looked better when I was drawing it up in MS Paint.
You are correct about the switch (accent) light & the rebel being in series.
1) It was the easiest way I could think of to have both led's on when I tap the power button.
2) I figured the current coming out of the rebel (neg wire) would feed the input of the DynaOhm, allowing the accent to run without the risk of burning out via too much power.
I know I didn't label my switch pins in a normal manner, but instead tried to make the accent pins look like a capacitor...
Positive accent leg is longer (& being fed from the DynaOhm output) while the short (neg) accent leg is returning unused current to the board via the 3rd solder pad.
The main and accent LEDs need to be run in parallel. To quote Luke Skywalker: “This isn’t going to go the way you think it will”.
Parallel = 2 seperate circuits. One from the Positive of the Battery, to the Main LED, back to the Board "L-" pad (and SOMEWHERE, in the lead TO or FROM the Main LED, the necessary resistor for the MAIN LED's Specs). The second from the Positive of the Battery, to the Dynaohm (in the correct orientation, these are directional), to the "LED +" post on the AV Switch, then from the "LED -" Post on the AV Switch to the Board "L-" pad. This will mean BOTH the Main LED and the AV Switch LED will light up when you activate the switch (which is ONE way of wiring the AV Switch LED, there are others, that will stay on as long as the board is powered, or on when the board is awake and off while in deep sleep).
I've done a few sabers with the NBv2, and I personally use a Recharge Port and a Kill Key, so I wire my AV Switch LED's to be on all the time if the board has power.
Series = ONE circuit (which you currently have diagramed), with BOTH the Main LED and AV Switch LED wired, which as FJK said, (and he is correct), will NOT work (your main LED will not light up if you try it this way).
The NBv2 Manual gives a good wiring diagram for the Single LED for the Main, on page 9.
The "Always on with power" and "off during deep sleep" diagrams are on page 12 & 13 (as "Power Indicator Wiring").
Ok, I re-drew the diagram per FJK's recommendations. Hoping I got it right this time.
I guess there's always more I can learn about how electrics / electronics work.
Even with a recharge port, I'd still prefer to wire the blue dot to only be on with the
main led. One reason is the manual mentioning an led can drain a battery faster
than usual (even in deep sleep mode) when wired to the accent pad.
Not if wired to deep sleep pad. Still not sure why you're using the DynaOhm instead of a normal resistor. I find them too large finicky. A resistor doesn't care which end is up or down, they just resist.Quote:
Originally Posted by TwinMill
I've used both. The DynaOhm is larger, for sure, but it takes the thinking out of having to calculate a resistor, and then finding the right one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Tilmon
I made quite a few PVC sabers with 2 or 3 AAA cell battery solutions (depending on if the main blade was red or amber) and having a bunch of dynaohms to use was helpful.
I was using a momentary to latching converter for stunt blades, so space in the hilt wasn't as issue. No Cram-Fu needed there (ah I miss those days...)
Isnt that futile?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Tilmon
To answer Tom's question about why I'm using DynaOhm... well, it's just what I had on hand from my original build - seen in my sig (which I rarely show).
The re-design includes new hilt, pommel, a short choke piece, acrylic disc chassis, battery upgrade, etc...
Pretty much the only things that are staying the same are the sound board, main LED, & blade holder,
(I'm so happy I bought it when custom powder coating was still available.)