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New to the forum, been here for a month now researching for my saber build.
Can anyone help me take a look at my wiring diagram for a PRIZM 5.1 with Neopixel blade and PCB connectors. Feedback would be much appreciated. Understand it is a pretty ambitious build for my first time.
Attachment 16871
Thanks!
All looks ok, except for your Crystal Chamber LED. Is that an RGB Led or is it a Neopixel 5mm?
My suggestion is to wire a cut off pixel from your strips for the chamber LED, and wire it in parallel with your main blade (like the first pixel in your blade). I'm not so sure how that will work with a standard LED on pads 1,2,3 like that when you are configured for neopixel.
Tom
Hey Tom!
Thank you for giving the diagram a look through. Much appreciated!
The crystal chamber LED is a RGB LED, I based the wiring off of the manual for PRIZM 5.1.
That is a really good suggestion, I really just want the crystal LED to mimic the colors and effects of the blade LEDs.
Questions:
1. When you say Parallel, do you mean solder the to the wires coming off of the hilt PCB before they reach the contact points?
2. Will I need a transistor between the data line for the single neopixel for the crystal?
Thanks again for the response!
I put my data line resistors close to the board. On Prism, I actually use the SMD footprint for the data line resistor (the one you show bridged). I put my data resistor (SMD) there on Prism. Then, your data, positive, and negative lines attach to your first pixel. What I do (for redundancy sake) to take that pixel out of the equation is to double the wires on the crystal chamber contacts.
So, that the wires come out of the board attach on the in pads on the cystal chamber cut off pixel, then continue onto the neopixel hilt adapter. (I don't transmit through the cut pixel I use for the CC). The advantage of using a cut off neopixel in this manner is that your tones match your blade more closely, plus the pixels are MONDO bright, way brighter than a 5mm LED, so your crystal lights up better. I think you'll like the results. If you need me to draw that out, or take a picture, let me know. Sometimes words don't help much. I'm just not an artist.
Yeah, I kind of understand what you mean. I will put the 390ohm resistor and move it closer to the board on the data line. Just for confirmation if you have the time to draw it out that would be awesome!
By the way. You can't say you're not an artist if you are on here. Saber making is an art.
Here goes 3rd grade art for your diagram. I told you I was not an artist, but I hope this gets the point across.
https://i.imgur.com/bmSyFtUl.jpg
Tom
Noticing your chamber led, You have is as a common cathode... and you're planning to solder it to the main led pads.... You'd need a common anode led for that. You can still use your cathode led BUT, you'd need to wire to the super TINY spots behind the main pads.
Or go with pixel led for the chamber as Tom is suggesting. Best bet
Attachment 16962Quote:
Originally Posted by Hdjoe
The positives to the PCB board are joined close to the PCB in the diagram and I expected to see comments on that. My understanding is that we separate the positives to reduce voltage drop in the wires...thought that would indicate that you run the wires independently from either at, or very close to, the positive out from the Prism?Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Tilmon