parts list for 10w saber with a/v switch

Hello. I'm looking to make my first saber. I've compiled a list of parts below that I'm pretty sure I need, as far as the electronics go. I need to make the brightest saber I possibly can. So basically, I'm wanting a 10 watt led saber with a blue a/v switch, and just an extra switch for future sound installation. Would anyone look below and see if I have everything correct as far as electronics go? I know I'm missing some things. I'm really not sure what battery I should get, not to mention which resistor for the 10w led I need. I am not a math person darn it. xD Thanks.

LED Engin LZ4 10W Single Color (Blue)

BuckPuck 700mA 6-wire

MHS "new style" Heat Sink V2

16mm Anti Vandal Latching Blue Ring Switch

20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor

SPST Latching Guarded switch with silver button

LEDengin Lens Holder

Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle

Star thermal tape pad

Wiring of course

I think you will need two 1000mA buckpucks, not one 700mA, and you are going to need to add a boatload of battery power to that list. A 7.4v 18650 pack should do it. wire 2 die in series off each buckpuck, that should get enough juice to the diodes to light them up nice and bright for ya.

Awesome, I appreciate that thank you. I'm surprised that it takes only one of those batteries. :) I also need that power xtender don't I. :o Okay, new list...

LED Engin LZ4 10W Single Color (Blue)

power Xtender

BuckPuck 1000mA 6-wire (two of 'em)

MHS "new style" Heat Sink V2

16mm Anti Vandal Latching Blue Ring Switch

20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor (for the a/v switch)

7.4v 18650 battery

SPST Latching Guarded switch with silver button (for future sound installation)

LEDengin Lens Holder

Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle

Star thermal tape pad

Wiring of course

ack, but what resistor for the 10w? D:

Btw, can a master replicas saber soundboard fit inside TCSS's hilts?

Yes a Master Replicas soundboard CAN fit in MHS hilts...in fact when I started in this hobby it was the only kind of soundboard we had TO fit in MHS hilts lol. But A Master Replicas soundboard can't take 7.4V input [and neither can a Nano Biscotte] so you would have to use a Petit Crouton or other higher voltage rated card [Crystal Focus, Igniter] with a 7.4V battery solution...which is also when you might want the Power Extender depending on how you intend to wire your LED. You also don't need to worry about a resistor for the main power LED if you are using buckpucks - they replace the main LED resistor rather than being added to it. You DO need a resistor for the accent LED in the AV switch and the DynaOhm you have chosen is perfect for that. And you will NOT need another LATCHING switch if you upgrade later to a Petit Crouton or CF since they can be set to accept the main AV latching switch for the main activation switch BUT you will need a second MOMENTARY switch for the PC or CF auxiliary [effects] switch which must be momentary not latching.

Quite honestly, at the current time, with all the affordable entry level boards available, and reasonably priced used higher end boards, I wouldn't even bother with a MR/Hasbro board for a build like this. And as Onli said, you don't need the Pex, well, until you actually need it. It will do nothing for a soundless setup like you are building now. One thing to warn you of, use small gauge wire (28-30g) for the LED wiring, your going to have a lot of wire that needs to pass thru a few small holes in the heatsink.

Appreciate all the advice. Kanomi: I thought the buckpack did that. But I wasn't sure. Now I know. :) Sounds like I may just put another power source in the hilt for the sound as long as I make the hilt long enough. I know where to get some cheap MR boards and I am in college and what not, so I'm looking to be as frugal as I can be, lol. I'm looking to go full power on the led. And I'm really not looking for the lock up or even the FoC effects so I'm not worried about momentary switches. But thanks for that info. I think I want to be able to turn the sound on/off independently of the led. That's where the guarded style switch I have listed will come in. :) This is what I've come up with, roughly, btw.. Attachment 9037

It looked like the Power Xtender was a rather integral component according to FenderBender's 10w led wiring guide. :/ I'm looking to go for full powah. :D Okay so new list!

Electronics

LED Engin LZ4 10W Single Color (Blue)

power Xtender

BuckPuck 1000mA 6-wire (two of 'em)

MHS "new style" Heat Sink V2

Star thermal tape pad

16mm Anti Vandal Latching Blue Ring Switch

20mA DynaOhm™ Variable Resistor (for the a/v switch)

7.4v 18650 battery + Single 18650 Li-Ion charger

SPST Latching Guarded switch with silver button (for future sound installation)

wiring

Optics

LEDengin Lens Holder

Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle

LED "TCSS style" Battle blade 1" OD

Hilt

Screw on LED blade holder style 20

MHS Extension Blank Style 3

7" Fluted with guarded style switch hole

Bezel for illuminated switches

Services

Machine recessed AV switch hole

It's important to note, I won't be using any kind of board yet. In fact, I may stuff that in independently of the led electronics.

I'm missing some things. :eek: