Also when you drill and tap the .75 extension use a short AV switch with a tall bezel to give you the most working room inside.
Also when you drill and tap the .75 extension use a short AV switch with a tall bezel to give you the most working room inside.
I meant to cut through the threads. Once the extension and the choke are screwed together just treat it like it's one solid piece of metal. You should still be able to drill and tap it for an AV switch. As to the pommel , put the power switch in the pommel and the auxiliary switch in the .75 extension .
If you want those two pieces permanently locked together so you can drill and tap in the threads, I recommend using a threadlocker compound on them first. Loctite Red is permanent. Loctite Blue is not, but it won't back out under normal circumstances.
I was thinking J B Weld to lock them together. You could also use this part, http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...ring-P897.aspx And use tactile switches instead of the AV style.
You could do a switch in the pommel using these
Guarded switch http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Po...le-1-P425.aspx
Av switch http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Po...le-2-P476.aspx
You could drill holes in those too for sound or do reverse sound
And for your second switch you could put a switch in a covertec knob somehow
I'm going to be attempting something similar with two momentary switches and possibly drilling and tapping through a threaded section, that's a few months ahead though. the design I'm working with is what I posted here. Going to have to fit a PC v3.5 and a 7.4v Li-ion 800mAh 14500 Battery Pack in the hilt with a speaker mount v5 (which adds .75" to the internals). I plan on having the R.I.C.E. port and the recharge port in the pommel so the speaker needs to be locked inside the body. Attachment 11743