Anyone ever try touch plate activation with box style 1?

Just wondering if anyone had ever tried to put tactile switches under a clamp card or something like that. I'd love to see what you guys have done, or if you have any ideas of how it could be done.

I’ve done switch plates before, but not specifically with Box #1. I’d have to take a look, and see what I would recommend for it.

Hey JoeKerr

Have you seen the Slothfurnace capacitive touch clampcard? Its sized to fit the #28 / Korbanth LS6 box. Its a really cool idea but necessitates a whole additional circuit to function. You might be able to find a small IC to run capacitive touch in a style 1 box.

- Steve

I'd love to see what you've done. thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by null

Hey JoeKerr

Have you seen the Slothfurnace capacitive touch clampcard? Its sized to fit the #28 / Korbanth LS6 box. Its a really cool idea but necessitates a whole additional circuit to function. You might be able to find a small IC to run capacitive touch in a style 1 box.

- Steve

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I've done some Googleing, but so far it's gone a bit over my head lol. I really like the idea of a capacitive touch plate though.

Hey

I’ve used a slide-style switch under a bubble clamp card before. It slides about ~ 1/8” to activate.
https://i.imgur.com/fEYtyDG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/C8IYvx5.jpg

Here’s the slothfurnace card. He does have a YouTube video showing how to wire it; I’m sure you could do it - it’s not rocket science (no offence intended to any actual rocket scientists)
https://i.imgur.com/Qga13Zx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3TxtSTK.jpg

- Steve

i actually have the older version of box1 with the simulated clamp sleeve. been working on this saber about 10 years and have always intended to have touch plate on the card.
i have an old korbanth luke LS6 that LDM changed to hero version, and he used one of his Hero MKVI boxes on it with touch plate. the card is very thin but i can learn from his work.

basically the card being thin and flexible helps, but ideally you want to have enough "slop" in the rails for the card to be pressed down (mine will press down on both ends, emitter side for aux, pommel side for activation). you would have to remove material on the bottom side of the rails for the card to move downward.
i am also making my own card and it will either be my own found circuit cards from a surplus store, or maybe a scratch-built piece of thin sheetmetal with copper traces cut on my wife's cricut decal machine. we shall see but i think the more flexible material would be the sheetmetal, even though the board i found is a very cool white translucent much like TCSS transwhite blades.
(boy i should start an A-Z build thread but photo hosting is a PITA)

i hope this helps and whenever i get around to building the activation box/panel/switches i will post it on the forums and try to remember to drop a link to it here.
youtube might even be easier.
oh and it will have a recharge port on the side of the box, with a fake graflex lever used as a kill key.

now you see why this has taken me nearly 10 years lol
im thinking about naming it "HERITAGE", as it will have elements of at least 2 OT sabers.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jedi Mynock

i actually have the older version of box1 with the simulated clamp sleeve. been working on this saber about 10 years and have always intended to have touch plate on the card.
i have an old korbanth luke LS6 that LDM changed to hero version, and he used one of his Hero MKVI boxes on it with touch plate. the card is very thin but i can learn from his work.

basically the card being thin and flexible helps, but ideally you want to have enough "slop" in the rails for the card to be pressed down (mine will press down on both ends, emitter side for aux, pommel side for activation). you would have to remove material on the bottom side of the rails for the card to move downward.
i am also making my own card and it will either be my own found circuit cards from a surplus store, or maybe a scratch-built piece of thin sheetmetal with copper traces cut on my wife's cricut decal machine. we shall see but i think the more flexible material would be the sheetmetal, even though the board i found is a very cool white translucent much like TCSS transwhite blades.
(boy i should start an A-Z build thread but photo hosting is a PITA)

i hope this helps and whenever i get around to building the activation box/panel/switches i will post it on the forums and try to remember to drop a link to it here.
youtube might even be easier.
oh and it will have a recharge port on the side of the box, with a fake graflex lever used as a kill key.

now you see why this has taken me nearly 10 years lol
im thinking about naming it "HERITAGE", as it will have elements of at least 2 OT sabers.

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What's stops the card from falling out? Like right now box 1 just has an recess for the aluminum tops. But wouldn't you need like channels of sorts to slide the card in?

I'm currently in the process of trying to come up with something 3D modeled. But first I'm trying to model the box itself. Ugh, 3D modelling is not my strong suit. I wondering if I could get a model of the box from somewhere....