Chassis Question - Varying ID of MHS V1 Parts

Hi, I am new the saber building community and subsequently new to TCSS forums. I am currently in the process of getting started on my first ever saber build. I have ordered quite a few MHS V1 Hilt parts, and Tim has been gracious enough to custom mill a few other MHS V1 Hilt parts for me in order to build my saber. As I am currently awaiting those to arrive, I am stuck in a bit of analysis paralysis around one aspect of my chassis design and was hoping I could get a little guidance (I did search on this topic prior to posting...so my apologies if I missed an obvious answer).

Attached is an image of a rough approximation of the back of my Hilt design. It is not exact, but close enough. I am using Pommel 10, a 4inch double female extension, and then MHS Ribbed Extension Style 2 (MHS Ribbed Extension pictured). My issue is this, the ID of the Ribbed Extension and the Pommel are both 1.15", where as he ID of the 4" double female is 1.25". I plan to have the chassis and speaker span from the pommel through at least a portion of the ribbed extension, but I'm not certain if it makes sense to build the entire chassis with components the are 1.14" OD (either TCSS Chassis Discs, Goth-3D or ShtokCustomWorx) of if I should try to make parts of the Chassis 1.24" OD? If I were to make the chassis only 1.14" OD, would I run into any potential issues or run the risk of damaging my saber since there would be "air space" around part of the chassis that is not secured for the 4" stretch?

Attachment 17703

Thanks in advance for any advice?
Rich

Hm, I would put some support in the 1.25" section, doesn't need to be a lot, but some. Most your sensitive electronics (sound board, speaker, battery) will most likely be there so you'd want to offer them some support to reduce the risk of snapping your chassis at the transition point between the two MHS dimensions.

I'm still a noob myself, and I've been pulling my hair out trying to figure out a simple all-in-one chassis that will fit in a ribbed section. Would something like the Speaker Mount Style 6 not work? My design has the pommel connecting to the ribbed section, so it won't work without sanding it down a bit, but with your design having the double female extension between the pommel and ribbed section, I think it might fit. Of course, if you're planning on doing a custom chassis, then completely disregard my comment... Haha!

If it is supported at both ends it should be fine. How do you plan to secure the chassis?

You could also make a custom chassis in something like TinkerCAD online then either have shapeways print the design or check your local library (Some libraries have been getting 3D printers for public use).

@jbkuma, most likely with a set screw in the ribbed hilt section, just in front of the threads. But if things don't line up this could become a challenge.

@RavenXP, this is another option I have considered. I know my public library has a 3D Printer, but my only challenge is understanding the nuances of what should be part of a good Chassis design in order to come up with something that will actually work well. Any recommendations on how to go about the process of designing your own chassis?

I've been learning myself and what I put together is a cheat sheet of the normal ID of MHS parts and their tolerances. Then I go into tinkerCAD and start with a cylinder that is solid an at a 1.24" or 1.14" OD and go from there. TinkerCAD has tutorials on how to use the tools and functions in there. Personally I think the best way to learn is to go and do. All the measurements you need are on the store pages for MHS parts.

Edit: I'd also check with your library on the max dimensions of their printer as well as any restrictions on having a print made, mine limits any job to a max of 6 hours so if there's enough material in the build they wouldn't be able to do it.

Edit2: Another set of dimensions you should add to your cheat sheet is the dimensions of the board you plan on using and the dimensions of the battery you will use. That way you can create dummy shapes (or in the case of the CFX you can import the board into TinkerCAD with a file available on the plecter website) and use them to make sure everything will fit into the chassis.

wow great info, thanks! I will go out and check out TinkerCAD and see what i can do.

Jbkuma is right, if secured at both end you will be fine. If it were me I would search online for a piece of 18ga tube with an OD of 1.25 and sand the outside as needed to fit in the lower section.

1.25-1.15=0.10/2=0.05 so 1/20 of an inch which would be half a square of 5:1 graph paper. (Of note: that should be the thickness of 18 gauge, I think gauge may vary depending on metal type or application, but point it Google it)

Something you can both add to your cheat sheets is a gauge thickness chart. It's good for a quick reference. Also a simple digital micrometer can help for visual reference. Also graph paper. 4x1, and 5x1

Feeler gauges...if you have a Harbor Freight near you, go there and pick up a set for $5. They might not have a .05 in it (mine does not), but you can stick 2 together to add it up.

Another option, utilize MS Publisher for a good 2d view of your design. You can plug in exact measurements for your chassis and print it out and lay your hilt design over it with tracing paper.

I don't know much about CAD systems. I have played with tinkercad. On the 3D design aspect, consider they print plastics...super easy to sand off that 0.05" so save yourself troubling math and stick with 1.25/1.15" when using that program...and drafting for that matter!

Now as to 3D printing, I just purchased one myself and am in the process of learning it's little nuances. Its fun stuff in the mentally challenging aspect, definitely not as fast as clicking a button, especially when making thing 100% infill (density). That being said, I intend to incorporate minor peices into my chassis, but after getting hands on finished material I don't know that I would ever go for a 100% 3D printed chassis.