My turn!

This is going to be my first saber. As per J-Lo's suggestion, I'm posting a parts list so I don't screw myself over by buying the wrong thing. So here goes. Oh and I should give credit to PhoenixReborn for all his help compiling this list! So without further ado, here goes:

1000mA buckpuck
8.7 degree lens
Rebel LED green
Rebel lens holder
Rebel shim
4AAA battery holder
Guarded switch
1/8 heatshrink
Pommel insert
MPS clip
Pommel
5" extension
Ribbed extension
Blade holder
Blade retention screw
A bunch of drill and tap stuff. Retention screw service, Covertec clip service, switch hole service, activation box service.
That's another thing. The activation box is not a functional piece. it's purely for aesthetic purposes. It's not available in the MHS Builder, so I drew it out in MS Paint to what I figured the appx dimensions would be.
Also powdercoating service of course.

http://i683.photobucket.com/albums/v...aber2Color.png

Any help would be hot!

Looks like everything is in order.
1 thing, you may want to move your blade retention screw upwards a bit for better blade stability.

See I thought about that... That screw is just really obtrusive. it's gonna be sticking way out above the edge of my emitter if i move it up anymore.

Nice Design,

What Blade are you going to use?

I'm still weighing my options where blades are concerned. Any advice?

Use a set screw for blade retention and you won't see it but you'll need an allen key. Also if you're going to have an activation box it's ideal to put a switch in it though it is a bit tricky and takes some resourcefulness.

You didn't list which batteries you were going to use.

I would suggest that when you purchase batteries, you use Lithium AAA batteries.

Energizer Advanced, Energizer Ultimate, or similar battery from another manufacturer.

Alkaline AAA batteries just don't perform under the heavy load of a saber.

The Lithium AAA batteries are more expensive, but they will do justice to your investment.

My .02

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crystal Chambers

Use a set screw for blade retention and you won't see it but you'll need an allen key

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Thanks CC! I'll see if I can't find it in the shop. Is it complicated to install?

Lithium instead of Alkaline. Noted. Thanks! :-D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Archangel

I'm still weighing my options where blades are concerned. Any advice?

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Ah, I see.

All the blades are nice, but it's really a personnel option.

Do you plan to Duel? - If so, go Thick walled. Thin walled is lighter, but you may want the weight.
Do you want the coreing effect? - Then go with Corbin film.
Do you mind the Clear walls? - Otherwise go Trans White.

As for length, I would go longer. You can always cut them down after.

Oh when we spoke in shout box about batteries I should clarify I meant lithium ions(li-ion) not the lithium AAA Arkhan mentioned. I don`t know anything about those.


If you want solid even blade I suggest trans white unless you want to use the film for a core effect.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crystal Chambers

If you want solid even blade I suggest trans white unless you want to use the film for a core effect.

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I second that. The trans white blades are awesome.

i have used the trans white blades that Tim sells with 4feet of polywrap inside makes a good looking blade
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-...ong--P529.aspx

and this blade tip
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Sh...disc-P138.aspx

if you gonna duel i would uses this blade
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/1-...ong--P528.aspx

with this tip
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Sh...isc--P139.aspx

hope this helps...these are just my personal prefrence

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crystal Chambers

Use a set screw for blade retention and you won't see it but you'll need an allen key. Also if you're going to have an activation box it's ideal to put a switch in it though it is a bit tricky and takes some resourcefulness.

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I agree with Crystal. My first concept had the blade retention screw in the same place. (But mine was a BH5.) Tim said it wasn't a good place for a set screw becuase that part of the BH is thinner and he won't be able to put a sturdy number of "threads" there. I would reconsider especially if you're planning on dueling.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crystal Chambers

Use a set screw for blade retention and you won't see it but you'll need an allen key. Also if you're going to have an activation box it's ideal to put a switch in it though it is a bit tricky and takes some resourcefulness.

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I agree with Crystal. My first concept had the blade retention screw in the same place. (But mine was a BH5.) Tim said it wasn't a good place for a set screw because that part of the BH is thinner and he won't be able to put a sturdy number of "threads" there. I would reconsider especially if you're planning on dueling.

Also from what I've learned the generally accepted practice is to place the retention screw higher up on the BH as this will cause the most amount of counter pressure. (The 2 exceptions being BH 12 and 17 because of their angle.)

**sorry for the double post. I'm using my phone and didn't realize that would happen when I pressed the "back" button. Hopefully a moderator will delete the first post.

The parts list doesn't list a recharger for lithium or NIMH rechargables, a recharge port,etc.

That had me thinking "removable, disposable" batteries, and hence, the advice to use Lithium AAA batteries to get the amperage needed to justify a 1000ma buckpuck.

If that isn't the plan, then please disregard.

Thanks for the advice from everyone! You're all wonderful beyond words. And Arkhan, I am going to use disposables, as offensive as that is to Crystal. hehe