This tutorial will show you how to convert your 2009 Hasbro FX Dooku ROTS saber to a 3watt Luxeon using the conversion kit that Tim offers. The saber will retain all sound functions and use the original switch. You must make sure your hilt is the same design as the one shown in this tutorial. I make no guarantees that the wiring etc that I say to use in this tutorial will be the same in all models. You will need to have basic soldering and mechanical skills to do the conversion. You can reuse the stock MR blade by putting some clear or reflective tape around the base to make it a tad bit bigger. When finished you will have one very strong saber as everything between your hands and the PolyC blade will be metal to metal with no weak plastic.
[LEFT]Parts List:
Dooku saber
Conversion kit
8.7 Degree Collimator Lens
Lens Holder
Rebel Star LED
Thermal Tape
Here is what you get out of the box (conversion kit included):
First thing to do is remove the grips. They are rubber on a plastic frame so be careful. Also make sure to work your probe all the way around so they just pop off!
In the above and following 2 pictures, you will see the 2 screws that need to be removed. The one closest to the pommel end of the hilt is covered by a plastic insert. Also, now is a good time to remove the decal that is circled in red.
So, lets drill the insert out, but be careful and only drill down about 1/8":
Now, use some needle-nosed pliers to yank the plastic plug out and you should have the following parts removed now:
Next, you need to remove the two set pins in the neck section of the saber.
Just drive them through with your punch and now, you should have the following parts removed:
Don't say I didn't tell you about that pesky sticker!
and slide the bell shroud and gold greeblie out (it won't go past the claw until the saber is fully disassembled):
Now, unplug your Molex connector and remove the clash sensor from the stock blade (you can also remove the bell at this point):
And you should now have these parts removed:
Grab your LED and insulating pad, and test fit your kit in your hilt:
Now, install your LED into the kit and solder the leads to the wiring harness that you previously removed. Make sure to use heatshrink on the solder joints (and NO, electrical tape is NOT just as good!) and re-connect the wiring harness to the board. the wires should fit nicely between the kit and the board module with plenty of space for the clash sensor. Now is when you put the thermal tape on (not shown). It sticks between the LED and heatsink.
Now would be a great time to test everything (and it also would have been a really great time to take a picture, you know tutorial and all...):
Now, you have to tap (6) screw holes (the (4) holes that the set pins came out of and the (2) in the bell). They are already there and simply need to be tapped with an 8-32 tap. Now is also a good time to hone the bell opening out some if you plan on using a TCSS blade (or any other 1" blade) If you are using the stock blade, then no need to hone:
Next, re-assemble the two halves of the saber (make sure to slide the gold greeblie back in here or you are gonna be mad), slide the bell back on and finish tapping the forward most (2) holes all the way through the kit. These are the ones that line up with the holes in the bell and will serve as blade retention screw holes:
I'd go ahead and test her again right here (you really don't want to have to rip the grips off again later..trust me.
When you are sure that it works, re-install your two screws (that hold the two halves together) and MAKE SURE TO CLEAN the residual MONKEY SNOT off of the grip area or you will not be happy with the result once you re-apply the grips!
Now I am gonna share a secret with you...use this and only this silicone to reattach the grips...SERIOUSLY. Be vary careful and apply the silicone to the grips, reattach them then wrap them carefully in masking tape. It must be tight! Leave it to set up for a few hours:
And you too, can have a converted Dooku!
