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I'm interested in learning about proper drilling and counter-sinking for A/V switches. I browsed the tutorials section and searched the forum and didn't immediately come up with anything that seemed helpful. Anything you guys and gals can show me would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Beav.
you mean like this:
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...a/100_3017.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...a/100_3018.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...a/100_3019.jpg
http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o...a/100_3020.jpg
I've done it using an end mill in my drill press several times. The pictures above don't show it, but my end mill has a pilot drill bit that is 1/4", so I start with a 1/4" hole where I want the switch, change the bit to the end mill, mill the flat spot, then switch to a 3/8" drill bit to enlarge the hole for the 16mm style switches, and finally, use a 5/8" bit.
The proper way to do it is of course to use a milling machine, but this method works in a pinch if you have a large drill press with a 1/2" chuck.
Also keep in mind that this isn't a lightsaber-specific question, so you'd probably have some luck just doing a general Google search.
Drilling into thin walled tubing is difficult because the bit will bite then clear as it rotates causing the bit to chatter.
Some basic pointers:
Use a drill press.
Use a vise with a notched jaw, they hold round parts more securely, or use a V block.
Use the shortest drill and the table as close to drill as you can. Make the drill press as rigid as possible.
Center drill the hole first, this helps to prevent the regular drill from wobbling as it starts.
You could use an Endmill to drill with on a drill press but be very careful and rear eye protection and a face shield.
Holding an endmill in a drill chuck puts a lot of stress on the shank and even a small sideways load can cause it to shatter. The fragments can be very sharp and moving at high speed.
If you use an endmill make sure it is center cutting. That first photo looks like it is not and has a raised section f metal in the center where the endmill did not cut. That could be why the edges look so rough.
That raised section in the center is from the absence of the center drill bit that the endmill uses...the pictures are of a test piece I worked on to make sure it would even work. Just so you know, I worked in a machine shop for 7 years running manual vertical and horizontal mills, so I do sort of know what I'm doing. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by lmshutt