New to the Custom Saber Shop

Hello all. I have been wanting to start on a Darth Nihilus 501st costume and I figured why not start with the saber?

I am not new to prop making or electronics, due to my 501st membership and building a 1:1 scale R2 unit, so this definitely seems like something I can do.

I've been reading around these found and watching a ton of YouTube videos. All of the available information is so awesome.

I am thinking of going with a holocron hilt with a Prizm board with a RGrB tried cree LED. Due to some feedback on holocrons hilt being a bit unstable, I am going to try to machine one myself.

I am a bit worried about using the proper resistors and have check out the stickied threads on the topic but am still a bit confused. I found a sweet install tutorial by Shameem that I am going to use for reference on the build.

Anyway, it's nice to meet you all and thanks again for supplying such a huge wealth of information!

Welcome to the party!


Greenie:mrgreen:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by G3-R6

Hello all. I have been wanting to start on a Darth Nihilus 501st costume and I figured why not start with the saber?

I am not new to prop making or electronics, due to my 501st membership and building a 1:1 scale R2 unit, so this definitely seems like something I can do.

I've been reading around these found and watching a ton of YouTube videos. All of the available information is so awesome.

I am thinking of going with a holocron hilt with a Prizm board with a RGrB tried cree LED. Due to some feedback on holocrons hilt being a bit unstable, I am going to try to machine one myself.

I am a bit worried about using the proper resistors and have check out the stickied threads on the topic but am still a bit confused. I found a sweet install tutorial by Shameem that I am going to use for reference on the build.

Anyway, it's nice to meet you all and thanks again for supplying such a huge wealth of information!

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If you have built an R2 unit, resistors will be easy. All you need is your supply voltage, Forward Voltage and Current rating on whatever LED you intend on using and plug it into this lovely calculator: Click Here for Resistor Calculator I would point you to Ohm's law, theories, and etc, but I hate math, and since there are programs like this that already use Ohm's law, I trust them and use them. Its easy stuff really.

Also, electrical circuits flow in a circle like water. You can place these dams (resistors) anywhere on the river, and they will stem the flow, in other words they can be in the negative or positive leg of the circuit. The important thing is to wire your LED's so that each LED has its own individual resistor. Resistors are important to LED's not only to keep from over-driving them and blowing them out, but also to help them to regulate themselves. As LEDs heat up, they kind of go into a self-killing energy eating craze unless you control them, so even if a LED doesn't necessarily need a resistor based on Ohm's law, its usually a good idea to pop some small resistor (usually .47 ohm) on the LED to keep the LED out of the death cycle. This is especially important for LEDs that you are using to illuminate the blade. The ones that run all the time when the saber is ignited. FOC diodes which just come on in brief bursts to give you flash on clash are not in as critical need for resistors, because they don't run long enough to go into the death heat spiral.

I built a MHS Nihilus hilt for a Garrison Mate. Its not totally accurate, but definitely better than what he had, and most other 501st Nihilus Cosplayers carry. I have seen some absolute junk out there (i.e. store bought sabers from the Big Saber Box Stores). Shameem was kind of inspirational to me as well on the deal. I set out and made this (video is long):

https://youtu.be/E1MGG1ReIyM

So, welcome to the TCSS site, it has been very helpful to me to read the many threads, stickies that are available here. I would also suggest watching all of Madcow's basic saber building videos on YouTube via the TCSS YouTube channel. They are worth their weight in gold, and everytime he posts another video, pretty much everyone watches them. He is a very good teacher for the basics.

DS-74759 (Tom)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tom Tilmon

If you have built an R2 unit, resistors will be easy. All you need is your supply voltage, Forward Voltage and Current rating on whatever LED you intend on using and plug it into this lovely calculator: Click Here for Resistor Calculator I would point you to Ohm's law, theories, and etc, but I hate math, and since there are programs like this that already use Ohm's law, I trust them and use them. Its easy stuff really.

Also, electrical circuits flow in a circle like water. You can place these dams (resistors) anywhere on the river, and they will stem the flow, in other words they can be in the negative or positive leg of the circuit. The important thing is to wire your LED's so that each LED has its own individual resistor. Resistors are important to LED's not only to keep from over-driving them and blowing them out, but also to help them to regulate themselves. As LEDs heat up, they kind of go into a self-killing energy eating craze unless you control them, so even if a LED doesn't necessarily need a resistor based on Ohm's law, its usually a good idea to pop some small resistor (usually .47 ohm) on the LED to keep the LED out of the death cycle. This is especially important for LEDs that you are using to illuminate the blade. The ones that run all the time when the saber is ignited. FOC diodes which just come on in brief bursts to give you flash on clash are not in as critical need for resistors, because they don't run long enough to go into the death heat spiral.

I built a MHS Nihilus hilt for a Garrison Mate. Its not totally accurate, but definitely better than what he had, and most other 501st Nihilus Cosplayers carry. I have seen some absolute junk out there (i.e. store bought sabers from the Big Saber Box Stores). Shameem was kind of inspirational to me as well on the deal. I set out and made this (video is long):

https://youtu.be/E1MGG1ReIyM

So, welcome to the TCSS site, it has been very helpful to me to read the many threads, stickies that are available here. I would also suggest watching all of Madcow's basic saber building videos on YouTube via the TCSS YouTube channel. They are worth their weight in gold, and everytime he posts another video, pretty much everyone watches them. He is a very good teacher for the basics.

DS-74759 (Tom)

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Thanks for the reply! I have seen your Nihilus saber. It's really sweet. I will watch that video you posted as well!

I think I am in love with the Holocron design. Shameem is def an amazing resource as well. I def want to mimic his "shattered weathering" on my saber. I am trying to get the dimensions of the Holocron saber and have my dad machine it for me on his lathe. I have considered just buying an empty Holocron, but I am concerned about the stability of the glued parts and I would really like the saber to be able to be unscrewed to work on it.

Anyway, i will be lurking around reading all for the stuff here and I will definitely watch all the tutorial videos as well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by G3-R6

Hello all. I have been wanting to start on a Darth Nihilus 501st costume and I figured why not start with the saber?

I am not new to prop making or electronics, due to my 501st membership and building a 1:1 scale R2 unit, so this definitely seems like something I can do.

I've been reading around these found and watching a ton of YouTube videos. All of the available information is so awesome.

I am thinking of going with a holocron hilt with a Prizm board with a RGrB tried cree LED. Due to some feedback on holocrons hilt being a bit unstable, I am going to try to machine one myself.

I am a bit worried about using the proper resistors and have check out the stickied threads on the topic but am still a bit confused. I found a sweet install tutorial by Shameem that I am going to use for reference on the build.

Anyway, it's nice to meet you all and thanks again for supplying such a huge wealth of information!

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Welcome to the forums G3-R6, though I am also rather new here. I will also be making a costume for me later too. I will also suggest what Tom said, watch all those mad cow vids and tutorials, I watched them so many times, really helpful.

Hi Frotté, thanks and welcome to the forums:D

Tom is right about the resistors and also they help prevent certain issues that can sometimes happen with soundboards so even if you can get away with using drive parameters they're still a good idea for any boards that don't have fully regulated LED drivers. But if you built an R2 (Respect!) I'm sure you'll do well with sabers. :) Welcome aboard.