Customize Hasbro 2015 Luke Blue Black Series

I have a Hasbro 2015 Luke Blue Black Series and want to fully customize it.
- Sounds prizm v5.5 so I can fully customize and add an improved speaker.
- tri-LED (RGB) so i can change to any color at will.
- add rechargeable battery, charging port, accents,

I added all these items into my cart and want to make sure I am purchasing all i need and not missing anything (or over buying).
Also want to make sure everything fits properly....Rather than doing trial and error.
I am excited for this new project.
If anyone has their saber photos and list of parts to share for their Luke ANH or REY TFA.
Also any wiring diagrams and/or tips for the Prizm. (or if you recommend another board, and why.

Thank you All!

V2 Hasbro Luke ANH or Rey (Jedi Training) Black Series conversion kit
Red/Green/Royal Blue Cree XP-E2 CopperNova
Star thermal tape pad - Tri LED
Cree/Rebel Lens Holder
18deg Tri-Rebel/Cree Star Lens
18650 Single Cell Holder
Panasonic Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 3400mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery
3.7V Li-ion smart charger with 2.1mm plug
2.1mm plug adapter for smart charger
Prizm Sound Module V5.5
Acrylic Chassis Disc for PRIZM and 18500/18650 pack - S19
Prizm V5.5 Sound Module SD card
USB to 3.5mm R.I.C.E.™ cable
10-32 x 3/8" Black Acetal thumb screw
10-32 x 3/8" Red Acetal thumb screw
10-32 x 3/8" Button Head
2W 28mm Bass Speaker
MHSv1 speaker mount Style 5 - For 28mm Speakers
1" Hilt safety plug - Style 3
Set of 4 short Graflex style electrical pins
Kill Plug Style 5 (Silver)
Kill Plug Style 6 (alternate plug)

I have done several of these conversions, some of which I have posted in the MR Conversion forum:

Tom's Luke Conversion
Tom's Rey Jedi Training Conversion


Prism and the cree you picked out will work well. You only need the Tri-Cree carclo lens, you don't need a holder. The lens secures onto 3 holes in the tri cree. The tri cree secures onto the heat sink with thermal tape that screws into your adapter kit.

So, I was confused about the chassis disks and speaker holder you chose. I think you would be better off, in my opinion, to use the: MHS V1 Chassis Style 6

With some creativity, you could probably adapt it to hold a recharge port if you really wanted one. The Prism has deep sleep, and with a tri-cree lens, your run time would be pretty decent. You might be better off just building it with swappable batteries via the MHSV1 Style 6 chassis and a 18650 Keystone battery holder. TCSS has recently changed the V6 Chassis a bit; however, a good video to watch about this chassis is: https://youtu.be/oGdwJqifXqE


The MHS V1 Style 6 chassis will hold: your battery, soundboard, speaker, and potentially RC Port. It fits loosely into the MR Luke even when you use T8 Tubing to protect your electronics. I use a set screw to secure it, as you can see in my previous builds; however, that set screw is subdued. Time to learn to drill and tap if you haven't, it comes in handy.

The prism will need 2 switches. With some creativity, you can adapt 2 switches in the clamp, but you'll need to be really creative. You will not be able to re-use the latching switch, except for potentially as an external kill switch. I get rid of that one altogether usually. I usually use Graflex 2.5 red button bezels, and adapt them and the conversion kit to be used as one of the activation buttons. On the Luke Conversion, I believe I retrofitted the clamp for activation. Your switch plans will need to be solid if you want full prism functionality like color changing. You will need 2 switches.

If you don't want to mess with 2 switches, you can still achieve 3 different colors on Nanobiscotte IV with a power extender module. That wiring is a bit more complex, and then you have to program in your color desires into each bank, but it can be fairly easily achieved via the instruction manual.

Hope this helps.

Tom

Another basic video worth watching:

Another video worth watching, where Madcow uses this chassis, and shows how to use the T8 tubing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sApB7J5JdZ4[/VIDEO]

Thank you Tom,
I haven't realized you replied to my question. Never received an email even if I was subscribed.

I have a couple questions and an updated list below. I am starting to understand much much better.

1) The removable battery, how is it charged when you remove from saber?
2) Can i use my hasbro blade? or do i have to purchase a new one? whiuch you recommend? its 1.0" I assume.
3) Is the Prism or the Nano V4 the best board? I want to go all out. most features and best sounding
4) what is a carclo? i cant find in the store.
5) Is the speaker i chose correct? 2W 28mm Bass Speaker (I saw the work VECO in one of your lists and dont know what VECO is)
6) I want to make it look like as authentic as possible. Thinking of doing your install putting a micro switch under the card with beer can wedges. How ingeniuous! Which switch you use? and do you have a clearer photo of the install?
7) As an alternate, later i may go the activation box 1 method, but am trying to understand if it fits perfect into the existing holes or i have to drill (which i prefer not to do.). any advice?
8.) Oh also noticed there is a NANO V4 pre-wired. Will it fit inside the style 6 chassis with the Power Extender (which is currently out of stock).

So excited and your videos are fantastic! Almost ready for my purchase!
I am a wire harness engineer for 20 years working and love working on projects, so excited for this one.

CONVERSION KIT:
V2 Hasbro Luke ANH or Rey (Jedi Training) Black Series conversion kit

LED:
Red/Green/Royal Blue Cree XP-E2 CopperNova
Star thermal tape pad - Tri LED
TRI-CREE Lens (what is carclo?)
18deg Tri-Rebel/Cree Star Lens

CHASSIS:
MHSv1 Chassis Style 6
Graphlex Red Button Replica Thumbscrew
Graphlex Glass Eye Replica Thumbscrew (smoke)

Battery:
18650 Single Cell Holder
Sony Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 15A 3120mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery (removable)
****How do i charge battery?

Soundboard:
NANO Biscotti Sound Module V4 (Pre-wired? or Bare?)................(or use prism v5.5 instead?)
****Power Xtender 2.0 (NOT IN STOCK 2019-04-09)****

Speaker:
2W 28mm Bass Speaker (VECO?)

MISC:
Momentary switch??
9" Electronics shield for 1.25" ID tubes (T8 Tubing)

Cosmetic/Extras:
Set of 4 short Graflex style electrical pins
1" Hilt safety plug - Style 3
Kill Plug Style 5 (Silver)
Kill Plug Style 6 (alternate plug)
10-32 x 3/8" Black Acetal thumb screw
10-32 x 3/8" Red Acetal thumb screw
10-32 x 3/8" Button Head (qty 2)
2 wire quick connector
6 wire quick connector

Quote:

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Originally Posted by inazuma

Thank you Tom,
I haven't realized you replied to my question. Never received an email even if I was subscribed.

I have a couple questions and an updated list below. I am starting to understand much much better.

1) The removable battery, how is it charged when you remove from saber? You charge it on an external charger. You have to buy one separately, most stores have them. 18650 charger.
2) Can i use my hasbro blade? or do i have to purchase a new one? whiuch you recommend? its 1.0" I assume. Better to not reuse the Hasbro blade. Its like 3/4". The conversion kit is 1" ID. 1" blade is what you need.
3) Is the Prism or the Nano V4 the best board? I want to go all out. most features and best sounding. Prism, is what I'd go for, but then you need 2 buttons to use all the features.
4) what is a carclo? i cant find in the store. Carclo is the normal tri cree lens sold at TCSS carclo lens link
5) Is the speaker i chose correct? 2W 28mm Bass Speaker (I saw the work VECO in one of your lists and dont know what VECO is) Yes, Veco bass speaker is the 2W 28mm speaker. That is the right one.
6) I want to make it look like as authentic as possible. Thinking of doing your install putting a micro switch under the card with beer can wedges. How ingeniuous! Which switch you use? and do you have a clearer photo of the install? I can send you some of those switches, I have hundreds of them. You have to dremel out a hole for them to sit in in the plastic clamp piece. Very carefully and slowly. PM me your address, and I'll send you 4 of them.
7) As an alternate, later i may go the activation box 1 method, but am trying to understand if it fits perfect into the existing holes or i have to drill (which i prefer not to do.). any advice? You would have to modify to use TCSS' activation box.
8.) Oh also noticed there is a NANO V4 pre-wired. Will it fit inside the style 6 chassis with the Power Extender (which is currently out of stock). They sell that Nano prewired in a chassis I believe.

So excited and your videos are fantastic! Almost ready for my purchase!
I am a wire harness engineer for 20 years working and love working on projects, so excited for this one.

CONVERSION KIT:
V2 Hasbro Luke ANH or Rey (Jedi Training) Black Series conversion kit

LED:
Red/Green/Royal Blue Cree XP-E2 CopperNova
Star thermal tape pad - Tri LED
TRI-CREE Lens (what is carclo?)
18deg Tri-Rebel/Cree Star Lens

CHASSIS:
MHSv1 Chassis Style 6
Graphlex Red Button Replica Thumbscrew
Graphlex Glass Eye Replica Thumbscrew (smoke)

Battery:
18650 Single Cell Holder
Sony Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 15A 3120mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery (removable)
****How do i charge battery?

Soundboard:
NANO Biscotti Sound Module V4 (Pre-wired? or Bare?)................(or use prism v5.5 instead?)
****Power Xtender 2.0 (NOT IN STOCK 2019-04-09)****

Speaker:
2W 28mm Bass Speaker (VECO?)

MISC:
Momentary switch??
9" Electronics shield for 1.25" ID tubes (T8 Tubing)

Cosmetic/Extras:
Set of 4 short Graflex style electrical pins
1" Hilt safety plug - Style 3
Kill Plug Style 5 (Silver)
Kill Plug Style 6 (alternate plug) You don't need kill keys on the MHS V6 chassis, unless you cut in a recharge port into it.
10-32 x 3/8" Black Acetal thumb screw
10-32 x 3/8" Red Acetal thumb screw
10-32 x 3/8" Button Head (qty 2)
2 wire quick connector
6 wire quick connector

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My answers to your questions are in red. I hope this helps.

Perfect thank you. I put in my order minus the blade last night.
I will PM you my address, maybe if you can stick the switches inside that box when you find my order# 125130
I do have a dremel, thank you. Thinking of putting maybe 2 switches in similiar like you.

That carlco lens is inside my order as well. I ended up ordering the bare nano, wish I waited since you said the Prizm is better. Maybe i will upgrade to prism later.
I will look for a charger, never heard of these before.

as far as the blade, i will get a 1.0" blade. what is common to show all colors? Clear or White? The clear we will need a difuser i assume. The white does not? which is best color and brightest? I dont plan on dueling with it so is thinner better??
Also tips. pointed or round?

Cant wait to get my order and will put an order for my blades as soon as you answer back thank you !

I don't work for TCSS, I'm just a schmo like you. I'll drop those switches in an envelope to you. As for blades, for in-hilt builds, I like clear blades with clear cellophane wraps inside. There are lots of tutorials about building in-hilt blades. Its really relatively easy. I'm now partial to round tips, but for neopixel blades I like the parabolic.

I don't have any better pictures of the switches installed; however, I'm currently converting an Anakin ROTS Graflex with the same type of setup. I'll see if I can get some better pictures of the switch in the clamp.

TOm

https://i.imgur.com/KLJ6x8l.jpg

that photo is perfect i can see it now. and thank you for the information.
you have been ever so helpful.

oh and thank you for the switches!!!

Hope they get to you soon. I've been thinking about this, not sure how dual switches will work in the clamp. There needs to be fulcrum between the two so only one activates at a time. Then you will need to be able to activate both simultaneously to get color shift on prism. What about red button activation, and then using the clamp switch for aux? You would have to cut a wire channel into the conversion kit, and then adapt a Graflex 2.5 switch bezel and switch. It can be done. Of course the dual clamp switches may work, I'm just not sure. I only ever installed NBIV into these conversions. I have used prisms in Graflexes, but only in the 2.5 kits. Many button options in those hilts.

Tom

Thank you for the switches! i need to decide what i want to do and will let you know.
Also than you for all the help!

Glad you got them, hope you are making progress!

Tom- do you have any pictures or tutorials on how to mod tcss conversion kit to make the channel for the red button activation? I’m doing a Rey conversion with a NBv4 in the newer MHSv1 chassis. Your videos have been a massive help so far. First time going through this!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Schwa09

Tom- do you have any pictures or tutorials on how to mod tcss conversion kit to make the channel for the red button activation? I’m doing a Rey conversion with a NBv4 in the newer MHSv1 chassis. Your videos have been a massive help so far. First time going through this!

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I have never videoed cutting in the channel on the Graflex Conversion kits; however, I basically use a dremel cutting wheel to slice in a channel about 3mm wide and 3mm deep or so from the red button to the existing channels in the adapter. The key thing is making sure you get them smooth enough that they aren't going to damage your wires shaking around in them. I also use 30 ga wires for my switches, so there is plenty of room in that channel for 2 30 ga. wires.

If I were going to run a clamp switch as an aux, then I would run my ground wire into that switch from the red button switch, and continue it onto the board. Both switches then share the same common path to GND. With 2 switches, you'll only have 3 wires, and I commonly do that on most of my 2 switch installs, as it saves space, as well as minimizes the amount of wires going to the board. I never like sending more than one wire to a board, so anytime I have the opportunity, I common up leads in the chassis, and run a pigtail off of them to the board to minimize clutter soldering onto the board.

Tom