Hasbro sound module schematics and discussions
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sa...oardhasbro.jpg
Let me start off by saying that this design is not approved by Corbin yet. I modified his drawing to show how to hook up his driver (the 3w driver I sell) and the hasbro sound modules I sell with only 1 momentary switch. I have tested this and it seems to work great but try it at your own risk. One nice side effect that I liked is that if you tap the switch very fast you can get just corbins driver to turn on for those times you dont want sound. Of course you need to tap it again without triggering the sound to set it back to normal. Only takes a minute to master but can be confusing. If you dont want the clash effect (which only seems to work some of the time) just dont hook up the 2 pink wires. I have only tested this with up to 6v and do not know if higher voltages will work.
Tim
The Custom Saber Shop
troubles...I need more POWER!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Strydur
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/sa...oundmodule.jpg
Postitive input = Hook directly to positive on battery pack
Negative input = Hook directly to negative on battery pack
Negative output = Switched output to LED or could be used to trigger a relay in a EL setup
The positive for the LED/EL setup would come straight from the battery
Using the negative output on the sound module like this will have a flash on startup/shutdown and a flash on clash. What I mean by this is the LED will blink on and off fast for a few seconds during these times.
Tim
The Custom Saber Shop
the highlighted red -- meaning i nee a second switch? notunderstanding...if anyone has the schematic that went here i would love it...im running a seoul p4 and its nowhere near as bright as my 616. im trying to brighten the blade till i can get a 1000ma puck without drilling another hole for a latchin switch. fender told me the hasbro board im running only puts out 500ma. ive got a resister to put in place...help...please:) ive got a red lux III but im undrstanding it needs 1400ma:(