Drilling holes in threaded sections of MHS parts

Hey all,

I'm working on finalizing my first saber design, and as a final detail I'd like to include a pair of graflex pin sockets, like a few sabers seen in the prequel trilogy and The Clone Wars. I was thinking of doing this by making a hole in the MHS shroud for the main socket, and inserting some short graflex pins sold at TCSS. Unfortunately, the only ideal locations for these sockets lie right on top of an MHS female thread, which poses a problem if I want to drill and tap holes for the graflex pins. I've seen a few people drill holes for switches and things into threaded sections of MHS parts, but I don't know what the implications of that are or if it's even a good idea at all. Has anyone had experience drilling holes in threaded sections of MHS parts? Is it a good idea? If so, how should I go about doing it?

It's not recommended, unless you: 1. Really know what you are doing, AND 2, are willing to repurchase the parts if it is screwed up. It also can weaken the threaded connection (why it's not typically recommended to start with).

Hmm...repurchasing parts is definitely not within my budget. Does anyone have any other ideas how I could mount graflex pins over a threaded section?

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Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight

It's not recommended, unless you: 1. Really know what you are doing, AND 2, are willing to repurchase the parts if it is screwed up. It also can weaken the threaded connection (why it's not typically recommended to start with).

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I am with FJK 100%

I recently did this to be able to install a switch in my sister's future saber (as part of my Groomsman-Saber project) because that's how she said she wanted it.

Luckily, I've been increasing my knowledge and felt that after enough research, and measuring, and planning, and re-measuring, and part cleaning, and measuring again... that I knew enough to be able to pull it off (so I had FJK's #1). But I was also worried that something might get screwed up along the way if something went wrong, and went into it knowing full well that I may have to re-purchase her parts (FJK's #2) which is why I did her switch hole now when everyone else's sabers aren't going to get finished til January or so.

Anyways, it turned out fine, which was great. But that was only after knowing what I was getting myself into, and being prepared for the consequences should something get messed up.

Though this was all between an extension and a choke piece. Doing this closer to the blade holder where the heatsink will also come into play adds a whole 'nother bucket of worms.

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Originally Posted by NanoRex

Hmm...repurchasing parts is definitely not within my budget. Does anyone have any other ideas how I could mount graflex pins over a threaded section?

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Mount them somewhere else on the hilt?

Thanks for the insight, guys. I'll look at mounting them elsewhere (although I feel like they should always be near the emitter), finding another way to mount a similar piece, or just foregoing them entirely.

You have to remember that if you drill into metal, or any material for that matter, it doesn't create a perfect hole all the way through. You will be pushing material outwards at the exit point which will screw up your thread. You can fix this with a few tools, like a a file small enough to fit between the threads, without altering them, to clean it up. That's if you're drilling through one piece at a time but you would probably want to drill through both pieces when they are together so they're perfectly aligned. The problem with this is that you're not able to clean the threads before you unscrew the two pieces but the drilling will cause some shrapnel between the male & female thread. This means that as you unscrew the pieces you run the risk of ripping through the whole thread, not just where the hole is.

Can be done but not one for beginners.

There are three major problems with drilling into the threads.
1) You may produce burs between the threads that make it difficult to disassembly without damage.
2) You are drilling into curve outer surface and exiting the hole into an intersecting hole. Both conditions cause uneven loads on the drill and can cause it to wander in the hole which results in out of round or oversize holes.
3) You are drilling into a fairly thin soft metal so there is a risk of crushing the pieces, most likely the male (inner) threads.

I would only try this on a drill press (or mill if available) and the tube held in a V block or vise with a notched jaw. This will reduce the wobbling of the drill in the hole and keep the hole perpendicular to the tube.

Support the inside of the tube with a dowel or metal plug. This will prevent crushing and equalize the cutting forces as the drill breaks thru. You will get less burs inside and a cleaner hole.

Center punch and spot drill before starting the main hole. Use a sharp drill as short as you can find. These two will prevent the drill from walking on the outer curve and reduce any deflection of the drill due to uneven forces.

If the threads do not fit tightly you can use Teflon tape to minimize burs between the threads. The Teflon stretches so you can adjust how tight it fits. Wrap in a clockwise direct viewed from the end, that way when you screw it together the loose end does not bunch up.