LS6 Reveal Chamber with Sound

Hey, long time no see, I got bit by the custom saber bug again and I want to recreate Luke's ROTJ hero saber, full-out with sound. I've made and wired up a saber from MHS parts before, so this isn't totally my first rodeo, but I have never done one with a pre-designed hilt that I don't have all the measurements for, especially not one as complex as this.

I want to use the LS6 hilt kit and I have a WHOLE lot of questions, seeing as the description is complex and is slightly confusing and I can't find a thread in here talking about it. I hope you guys have some experience with it and could possibly help me out.

I want to build it with a reveal chamber in the Beauty style, will this be possible with a sound card and hilt electronics, or will the reveal version not allow it? I'm not too sure what the Stunt and Beauty versions imply or what their individual limitations are. I want to use a Nano Biscotte board (the same kind I used in my other saber, the one I have has a header, but I could remove it if it gets in the way).

It states the ID of the electronics chamber is .88 inches, but it doesn't seem to fit with any of the chassis parts offered here, or any of the parts (granted, I've never worked with an "electronics chamber" before, so I'm not exactly sure what's exactly supposed to fit inside it). What will I be limited to use, especially with the reveal chamber?

I know I'll have to buy the LS6 heatsink module, but the LS6 description says that it does not come with stunt switches, only beauty ones. Will I have to purchase additional switches, or can I wire up the beauty ones to actually be functional?

I know it's a lot, but any help you could offer would be great. I can't even do a parts/circuit diagram without the space questions answered. Thanks again for your input.

I have done this build with an NB4, although I ran into the same issues with the chassis. You will need to use a custom 3d printed chassis for this. Look up youtube videos for the LS6, you will get a lot of ideas. TCSS didn't sell the heatsink for this when I made mine, so i dont have one. But it is still works fine without it. It is a tight fit and a tough build, but you will find everything you need but the chassis from TCSS. Here is a pic of mine working. Attachment 16518

Sweet, thanks. From what I hear, Vaapad on Facebook is coming out with an LS6 chassis, so I'll stay tuned for more info. Otherwise, I'll just have to whip something up. Or, I could potentially turn it into a Neopixel blade. It looks like I'll have to get the hilt first and bust out the calipers and do the legwork myself before I go any further with it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Xonos

Sweet, thanks. From what I hear, Vaapad on Facebook is coming out with an LS6 chassis, so I'll stay tuned for more info. Otherwise, I'll just have to whip something up. Or, I could potentially turn it into a Neopixel blade. It looks like I'll have to get the hilt first and bust out the calipers and do the legwork myself before I go any further with it.

---

There is a chassis that someone made already designed for the nb4 (I have it) check shapeways. The same person even makes one for a Crystal, but not the one it comes with (it takes up too much room). I will post more later today with everything I got from TCSS and the wiring diagram and a few other thoughts.

I'd appreciate it. I looked it up, does that chassis enable a full crystal reveal?, It's hard to tell from the rendered pictures.

It looks like it does, if we are talking about the Korbanth LS6 V2/Hero Chassis. You would have to slide down the bottom piece, which is easy since the LS6 was made for this. Access to your sd card would be through the gull wings like on mine. The insides of the inner body can be pretty sharp, so watch for that. I had to pull out my chassis assembly once because the speaker wires severed, and this was the result. The battery is ok, I put electrical tape over it, but it is VERY tight in there. I think you can get to the charge port when you swivel the bottom part open for the crystal reveal. I had the chassis assembled and working 3 times before it would actually fit inside the saber. There is very little tolerance in this thing. Also use heat shrink tube over all your led wires or they will get severed when you screw the top emitter back on. I bet using a smaller battery with the NEO pixel would be easier, but I wanted to do a tri cree with flash on clash. I used 2 1 ohm 2 watt resistors, and did the led the way TCSS shows in their YouTube video. Make sure you watch all their LS6 videos and do what he says. I messed up my control box buttons with too much glue and had to replace them with new switches and it works, but it doesn't look as good.

I am having issues uploading my chassis pic from my phone. Will have to do it later.

There's another one I saw that enables a whole Slothfurnace-style crystal chamber to be put in, also on Shapeways. Issue is with that one, it's supposed to be rigged with a sliding switch and I'm going for a box activation. I'd like to rig it up so the black box buttons activate and power off the saber or just have a momentary switch underneath the card.

Yes, I would have liked that too, i'm still dealing with the activation issues. I don't know how to make mine turn on gracefully with the included side buttons. I wanted it to go on with the first button and turn off with the second button, but apparently, it's not so simple to do that. I also wanted to post about my build for this a while ago, but people on here get really mad if you talk about things that aren't found here (like the LS6 Gullwing Hilt) but now that they (TCSS) sells it, I guess I won't be banished. They still get mad about alternative 3d prints from what I have read.

Here is my messed up saber chassis. Like I said, it's EXTREMELY tight in there and you will have issues if you try to pull out your chassis all the time.

Attachment 16528

I came up with a good way to activate the saber for the Hero configuration. You will need a 6x6x11 tactile switch and then take a pen and cut the spring down a bit and then you can allow the cover-card to grab it with a piece of electrical tape (non-stick side to the spring). I just move the card down slightly with my thumb and it turns on, then again to activate. Here is what I did for an idea:

Attachment 16643