1st Time, Anything missing?

Parts List

Hilt
-7" Fluted with standard style switch hole (Black Matte Tuscan)
-MPS Pommel style 4 (Brilliant Brass)
-Brass MPS Insert style 1
-MPS Clip
-MHS choke style 1 short (Brilliant Brass)
-Screw on LED blade holder style 10 (Brilliant Brass)
-Brass Activation box style 9
Blade
-Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
-LED Trans White Battle blade 1" OD (34 inches)
Electronics
-16mm Anti Vandal Latching Amber Ring Switch
-2.1mm Power Jack (for kill port)
-Premium Speaker
-MHS speaker mount V3
-2AA Battery Holder with JST connector (will be using 18650 li-ion rechargeable I already heave, and one dummy cell)
-Nano Biscotte Sound Module V1
-JST connectors
-Bezel for illuminated switches (recommended for use as a flat surface to lock AV switch nut to in other threads)
-Kill plug style 4
-4-40 Button Head Screws
Tools
-4-40 Tap & drill set
-Tap handle
-Super Lube Synthetic Grease

My Questions:

1. I have read using a buck puck isn't needed with the NB board, but what type of resistor do I need? Or does the BP allow for more even use of the battery?
2. Is there anything missing from my list that I have overlooked?
3. How many of certain parts do I need? (i.e. JST connectors, screws)
4. Are there other questions I should be asking? (I figured it's smart to rely on all the great expertise here, I want my first saber to be great!)

Thanks in advance for your support and help!

-JediRebel

18650 is not the same size as a AA battery and will not fit in your pack.
14500 is AA size.

first 2 digits are the diameter of the cell, second 2 are the length.

18650 is 18 mm across and 65mm in length, 14500 is 14mm across and 50mm in length.

Well.... That's presents a challenge then, doesn't it!? So after looking back at the "Batteries and Packs" section I see there is no Holder for an 18650 available. The batteries I have came from Amazon with their own charger. Is there an alternative to be able to still use these batteries?

No, you can't use a buckpuck with the NB. The puck needs at least 5v to operate. Use a resistor instead. http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz will help you calculate an appropriate resistor. You will need one for the main LED, and another for the LED in your switch.

You'll need the button head screw for your activation box. You'll need another screw (thumbscrews and set screws are commonly used) for your blade retention screw. With the activation box, you will not need the bezel. The box is already threaded and will hold your switch just fine.

Zzan's advice on the batteries is correct. 14500 is AA sized. 18650s are much, much larger. Think shotgun shell sized.

As for JSTs, it's hard to say. I'd get the wiring harness for the NB and go from there.

So, if I decide to exchange for 14500's, should I plan to use two in the holder that I have in my parts list? As far as the NB wiring harness, from what I can tell I wouldn't be able to use an AV latching switch at that point. Is that not correct?

Not latching, no. But you should be able to find a momentary version of the one you want.

Wiring Harness out of the question then... can't learn saber spinning if I have to hold the button the whole time.

The NB is only compatible with momentary switches, so just put the latching switch out of your head. Just use a wiring harness and this momentary. It is orange, like the one you have in your OP.

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/16...itch-P618.aspx

You don't have to hold down a momentary switch unless your board is configured for latching only, and since you are using a NB, you don't have to worry about that.

Ty is correct, and I'm sad that I missed your switch selection this morning. I'm blaming it on insufficient coffee. The NB uses a single momentary switch. The saber will turn on with a single press, and remain on until you press the button again (or the battery dies).

Whether you choose to use 18650 li-ions or 14500 li-ions (or any other size li-ions), you will still only need ONE. Each li-ion cell outputs 3.7v, regardless of size. The larger cells have a longer runtime, but they output the same voltage. Two 14500s will likely fry your NB.

I was not aware of the once for on, once for off feature... sounds good, and thank you for the help there! So I guess that generates another question... What is the benefit of the wiring harness for the NB vs soldering straight to the board?

The benefit is that you have all the wires held in proper position, and they're all different colors for easy identification. You still have to solder the harness connections in place.

You may certainly solder individual wires to the board if you prefer. If you have decent soldering skills, one is about the same as the other. If your soldering hands aren't as steady as they should be (mine aren't), then the harness is an easier method. :)

Well, the harness only being another $2, I think I can afford that (I had only bothered to look at the pre-assembled one earlier)! So now I have a bigger issue... The amber Rebel Star is no longer available! I want to switch to more of an orange color, anyway. So what is my best option now (without getting into the LEDEngins)?

RGB Tri-Rebel. Wire up the Red and Green in parallel. You should get a nice amber/yellow color.

Based on reading even more information (my head is about to get dizzy from all this saber-savvy assistance :) ), I am going to go with the Rebel Star White, and the 12 color filters... just in case I change my mind in the future on color. Using the website posted earlier, they are suggesting a 1/8W 100ohm resistor for the anti-vandal switch. Is the 1/4W 150ohm resistor in Tim's store the right one to go with?

It may be a bit dim, but it should light up fine. I'd try it and see, since resistors are a lot cheaper than new switches. The 82 ohm resistor might work, but I'm not sure how robust the switch LEDs are. It might pop the LED at full battery charge.

Your other option would be to check out your local Radio Shack or other electronics parts store and grab a multi-pack of various resistors. I always keep a bunch of spares around the shop, you never know when you'll need one.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zzan

18650 is not the same size as a AA battery and will not fit in your pack.
14500 is AA size.

first 2 digits are the diameter of the cell, second 2 are the length.

18650 is 18 mm across and 65mm in length, 14500 is 14mm across and 50mm in length.

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Wise beyond your years.
Thank you for the bit of information about battery size.