Pico Crumble V2 - Service Menu not stopping between the color profiles...

hello - I have wired up the Pico Crumble using the wiring diagram in the manual. I have sound and all of the features appear to work except for when I am in the service menu. Once I enter the menu I can begin to cycle through the new color profiles, but some times the board advances through the combined color and stops at the next pure color. Sometime I can click the switch to advance through and some times it cycles through a few with a single click. The FoC works, MotG works, everything appears to work fine save for cycling through the color profiles in the service menu.

Any suggestions?

https://youtu.be/WXjtmlzI1w0

Hello - I received a quick response from Plecter Labs and it was suggested that I need to separate my switch wires from the power lines and use a dedicated low power V+ batt wire for it, braided with the activator wire.
This is due to transformer effect (induction) probably because I also have excessive current sent to my led (incorrect resistoring). I checked everything based on the suggestions and I believe I have the wiring and resistors correct (diagram attached). I did, however, notice that their is a component on the board that appears to not be soldered in the correct spot, based on the images I have seen of the board (attached). I am waiting to hear back from Plecter to see if this may be the root cause. That said I welcome any suggestions or feedback from the group.

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The resistor you hi-lited in the second picture certainly appears crooked to me. In fact, I'd hazard a guess that it's crooked enough, it might not even be making contact with the upper pad. A good, zoomed in macro photo couldn't hurt.

Edit to add, I think the black wire might have a little too much insulation stripped off, it's a bit too close to touching / shorting against the green wire above it (for my taste, anyways.)

Lastly, the upper speaker wire doesn't look like it has any solder holding it to the pad, yet you say the sound works...
(That one is a bit of a head scratcher for me.)

Thanks for the reply TwinMill - Erv' from Plecter says the resistor is not causing the problem. He writes "The moved part isn't causing any issue. Your switch wires create an induction loop next to your power lines. They should be braided." I will give this a go this weekend. It has been many years since I played with electronics at this level so I have to do some brushing up on braiding (twisting?) the wires together. As you pointed out, I could also do some cleanup work on some of my joints.

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Did braiding solve your Problem? Im going to wire a Pico Crumble soon, it would be interesting to know what solved your Problem.

I have not had an opportunity to try yet. I was traveling for work, but hope to rewire this weekend and I will post an update.

It is hard to tell from the photo, but it seems like the resistor is perhaps under the capacitor. I'm not sure if the circuit path is supposed to connect them anyway, but at least one of them probably doesn't have a good connection to the board.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Schuyler Bain

I have not had an opportunity to try yet. I was traveling for work, but hope to rewire this weekend and I will post an update.

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Did you ever resolve this? Isn't braided wire a special type of insulated wire? I'm doing a pico crumble build myself!

I did and twisting the switch wire did fix the issue, but when I assemble everything in the hilt it goes back to the same functionality (or lack there of). I was using JST connectors and I think that provides section of wire that is not twisted while in close proximity to cause the issue again. What I really need to do is rewire the whole thing without the connectors and twisting the different legs. What I do know is that when out of the hilt the card functions properly.

If your interested, I wired a few of these myself and I think you are correct about the JST connectors...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Schuyler Bain

I did and twisting the switch wire did fix the issue, but when I assemble everything in the hilt it goes back to the same functionality (or lack there of). I was using JST connectors and I think that provides section of wire that is not twisted while in close proximity to cause the issue again. What I really need to do is rewire the whole thing without the connectors and twisting the different legs. What I do know is that when out of the hilt the card functions properly.

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