So, if I were to use a R/R/W for a Vader build, but I wired the Reds together, a single 1 Ohm 2 Watt resistor for both Reds would work fine?
So, if I were to use a R/R/W for a Vader build, but I wired the Reds together, a single 1 Ohm 2 Watt resistor for both Reds would work fine?
No, they must be resistored independently. If you use the resistor in this way, you'll half its value of resistance, overdrive your LEDs, and they'll die. They'll die quickly too. Don't do it.
Noooooooooooo don't do that lol! They always have to be individually resistored! Safer that way but that's imo. Tom crap I didn't see your post I wasn't copying lol I was gonna respond but work was calling sigh. Damn it's been I think almost two years since I've be here!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dann
Thanks for the heads up, guys!
Is there not a way to wire them together and use a single resistor?
You can common up all your positive lines on the star to save space, but each LED feed needs its own resistor in your application.
Tom
Okay, so my Reds are separate and each has its own resistor.
What's the difference between wiring both Reds to L1 and the White to L2 versus wiring one Red to L1, another Red to L2 and the White to L3 w/the power extender?
I’m assuming you are referring to a NBv4 (as the earlier NB versions don’t have 3 main LED pads).Quote:
Originally Posted by Dann
The NBv4 let’s you mix colors, by changing the “drive parameters” of each pad.
If you wire the 2 reds on one pad, and white on the other, you could only ever “mix” double red, and white.
If you wire red, red and white (with the PEX) on the L1-, L2-, and L3-, you could “mix” a single red, with another single red, with a single white.
This way gives you slightly more flexibility in coming up with different “mixed” main blade and FOC colors.
For example, if you wire it this way, you could have your blade color for the main blade and FOC as a mix from ALL red, to ALL white, with all the shades of pink in between.
So if you get bored of a all red main, with a white FOC (as “on-top”, or even white with the red off), you can change the “drive parameters” for each pad in the configuration files, so you can have a white, or even pink (red and white mixed) main blade, and say an all red FOC.
If you're running R,R,W.....I think the simplest thing to do is to put both Reds to L1 and White to L2, and forego the power extender. That keeps things simple for your first install, and the factory settings should work fairly well. You can still reverse your profiles, and mess around with mixing in this way.
The only time I use a PEX on a 2 color system is to mix 2 shades of the same color. For instance, if you had a Deep Blue, Blue, White LED, and you used the PEX on L3, that would enable you to blend how much deep blue, and how much blue, as well as white was mixed into the main blade color.
So, if you used Deep Red, Red, White......I would think that a PEX could be useful for you with 2 different shades of red; however, if you have just 2 red LEDs....pop them on pad 1. They're both the same color, and mixing them independently will mainly effect brightness of the saber versus colors. You could still adjust the Drive and FDrive to achieve a white blade with red FOC, or a salmon blade with white foc if you wired your saber in this manner. Make sure you make copies of your SD card factory contents on your computer before you make any changes on your SD card! Good luck with your build!
Tom
Thanks, folks! That was really helpful!