Seeking help and opinions on Kylo ren build

Modifying a Kylo ren fx black series. Will be doing both body and electric work to it. Never built (I guess I'm not really building this one, just changing it) a saber before but am confident I can make it happen. Here's my list of desired parts.
TCSS
Crystal focus v8
2x PC/cf color extender
7.4v 2600mA Li ion pack 18650 (not sure wether I should have a lower current)
Kylo conversion kit
Stainless steel momentary switch AV or SPST momentary switch for main blade
SPST momentary switches for extra sounds
RICE port
Switchcraft 2.1 mm Power Jack
2W 28mm speaker
3x 1" heatsinks with center holes
Associated wiring and resistors
3x Tri Cree r/r/w
3x lenses

(My first idea was to use r/g/b/w LZ-4s but not sure I can make it work)

I'm unsure of myself as far as my calculations for resistors go. I was thinking I would probably run the side LEDs in parallel but I'm not sure I'm putting in the correct values to the led calculator. Spec sheet says the red is 2.2v, green is 3.35v, blue and white are 3.2v, all having a forward current of 700mA. With this information I have gotten these calculations

Red
Led calculator - 4.7ohm/2.303W
(7.4-4.4)/.7=2.1ohm
7.4*.7=5.18W

Green
Led calculator - 1.2ohm/0.588W
(7.4-6.7)/.7=1ohm

Blue & white
Led calculator - 1.5ohm/0.735W
(7.4-6.4)/.7=1.43ohm

The calculator says the green setup is ok but it's not likin the red white and blue.

Thanks for your time. All opinions, ideas, advice or criticisms are appreciated and welcomed. I realize this is a difficult hobby with a harsh learning curve but I'm trying hard to learn.

Thanks again.

I think you need to read the manual for the CF, you have several items not needed or not comparable. I would also strongly suggest watching the videos and reading the Kylo conversion thread/tutorial. Also since I see you have the conversion kit for the FX saber, you might want to verify that a CF will fit into it. I have only seen people use the existing hasbro on the conversions. Also the CF only needs 2 momentary switches, you don't need the buck pucks with the CF or any of the Plector Labs sound cards.

If attempting to build your own from scratch Kylo saber you do not need the conversion kit, but you would need an appropriate heatsink and led holder.

If wiring in parelell you do not add the voltages together. That is only when you wire in series. Again read the manual especially the section for wiring cross guard sabers. It will answer most of your questions. It can be downloaded from the store.

Also do not series wire two different color LEDs, you will blow one or both. Only identical dice can be wired in series. Learn to do the math by hand, it is more reliable than the calculators that very generously round up with a large tolerance. Formulas and examples are in the manual...read it, learn it, it is your friend.

Thank you very, very much FenixFire. I am consulting the owners manual while editing my post. I should have been more clear that this is a Fx black series that I would like to make duel ready. And preferably loud and very colorful. However, after consulting the manual more thoroughly, I think that this idea of mine is getting a little ridiculous. I have heard that these hilts are quite tight but I saw the dimensions of the CF and it seemed quite small. I have had shameems tutorial of breaking it down for about a week now and I guess maybe I should start by taking it apart and seeing what space I have to work with? I will try not to post much until I recalculate some values and figure out some more accurate/precise wiring setups.