Simple First Saber: Parts List

After an attempt to add sound to an Ultrasaber didn't pan out, I'm going to try my hand at a DIY saber for the first time. After far too much thought I'm going with something relatively simple.

https://i.imgur.com/57Wygcv.png

The hilt is powder coated copper with one translucent brass piece. I plan to make a short brass shroud to screw in to the flat portion of the ribbed extension, but we'll see if I'm confident enough for that later. 2 switches, recharge and RICE will be as close to the top of the main body piece as possible, leaving ~4" grip space underneath. Originally planned to use brass box style 2 but am considering other, sleeker options. The chassis will be all thread running from a v5 speaker mount hooked at the pommel to chassis disc 5 at the top of the 5" piece, with the Prizm module and battery filling the bottom portion.

Hilt

• Pommel 4 (Copper PC)
• .75" Male/Female Extension (Trans. Brass PC)
• 6" Female/Female Extension (Copper PC)
• Ribbed Extension (Copper PC)
• Blade holder 25 (Copper PC)
• Brass MPS Insert Style 1, clip
• Drill/Tap service for RICE
• 8-32 x 3/8 thumb screw (blade retention)

Greeblies

• Activation Box, 6-32 screws, service (custom Brass #13, not pictured)
• 16mm AV brass switch (activation button)
• Switch 21 (aux button)
• Kill plug 5 brass
• Switchcraft 2.1 power jack
• Rice port style 2

Chassis

• MHS 28mm speaker mount v5
• 4-40 all thread x2
• Chassis disc 5
• Prizm/18650 acrylic discs
• Chassis spacers (2x .25", 2x 1.5")
• 4-40 nuts
• Power supply 3.7v 3400 mAh 18650
• Heat shrink

Led

• Tri-Cree R/G/RB LED
• 18° tri lens
• Tri star thermal pad
• MHS Heat Sink V3

Other
Brass shroud and screws

Already Have

• Prizm
• 28mm Bass Speaker
• Resistors
• Indicator LED
• Wire / JST

Tools
Soldering station
Power drill
Rotary tool

Removed

• Lens holder

Notes/Concerns

• I understand that the translucent brass coating is very light and may not match the actual brass pieces; I'm OK with that for now.
• I had wanted a 12" saber but just couldn't get enough room to fit the electronics. The extra inch also makes it easier to grip.
• There was also a Covertec clip on the bottom; interfered with the grip.

Let me know if you see any problems. Thanks for the information on this forum!

You don't need the lens holder with the tri-LED lens. I recommend getting a spare thermal pad for your LED star since they're inexpensive, and can't be reused if you ever need to remove the star from the heatsink for repairs.

I didn't notice anything else missing or extra in your shopping list. Good luck with your build!

Thanks for the tips! Makes me feel a lot better that someone's looked at it. Looking forward to building this thing.