Rando questions: Wire quality, recharge vs swapping batteries
Hi, all. I've searched around and have been compiling as much information as possible for my saber project but try as I might, there are still a couple topics that I either can't seem to find a clear answer to (possibly due to my own lack of understanding) or there's some debate on the matter and no clear winner. So I thought I'd ask a few of those questions here if that's alright. If you want, I can split them up into separate ones and find the appropriate threads, no problem just let me know.
Short background: I'm building an MHS v1 hilt, neo pixel, CFX saber. I have some soldering experience and have a hard time 'ramping up' with projects so I just dive right in (to mixed results). I have the shtokCustom blade-side pcb with the extra 5 leds, I would like to use a 16mm switch with a ring light, and *maybe* a lit momentary switch/accent light - I don't know if that matters but it's more lights and I'm asking battery questions.
I also plan on using the dynaohm resisters because a.) I suck at math, b. what if I need to change the type of battery.
1. Batteries: recharge port or not recharge port (that is the question) plus how much juice?
I started out thinking that the right thing to do was a single 18650 3.7v battery was the answer and now I don't know. A lot of the batteries have the JST connectors built in so that leads me to think that most people would recharge them. But other people say that's a huge pain (the charge time) so to use the button top kind with a battery holder so you can swap (which I guess means you'd have to design your chassis such that wasn't a huge deal. more on that later).
Then there are the folks that say to use the 7.4 packs but the tutorials I've seen usually just have the one pack so I don't even know how that fits into a holder (maybe they don't and those are always for recharging via a port).
QUESTION: what's your opinion? Port or swap? Is a single cell 3.7v enough for my application, in your opinion?
2. Chassis: I was thinking about buying the STL from GOTH3D to print my own but damned if I can find the right one for what I'm doing. I think the ID is 1.24" but there are so, so many versions they have.
QUESTION: Anyone use one of those chassis for their MHS sabers with success?
3. Pommel fitting: I bought a weird (apparently) pommel that I'm actually having trouble finding again. I think I first found it using the builder then added it to the cart and bought it. I've never been able to find it again. Thing is, the pommel insert doesn't fit in there. Like it's not really meant to because the ID isn't big enough. That makes me think I'll have chassis fitting problems too.
QUESTION: does any of the chassis need to fit into the pommel? because if so, I don't think a 28mm speaker will fit in this thing.
4. (final question!) Wires: I bought 24 gauge because it seemed like the best all around and I wanted to err on the side of too thick rather than too thin and not able to handle the voltage. Also, I bought wire from two different places. 1. My local electronic store. They had a pack of different color wires, no spool or anything, but they seem ok but kind of stiff. 2. I THINK I got these other spools from TCSS. I hadn't really don't anything with them so I got them out of the box and they're like...super flexible and rubbery. I had the thought that the rubbery ones would ease a lot of stress from the solder joint versus the stiff ones but I don't have any practical experience there.
QUESTION: Which is the better wire to use? Flexible or stiff?
Thank you all very much for indulging me and do let me know if I broke protocol. I'm excited to keep my project going and will post pictures of my WIP design in the gallery soon.
Thanks!
