09 HFX Obi-wan TPM - Done & kits available

This tutorial will show you how to convert your 2009 Hasbro FX Obi Wan TPM to a 3watt Luxeon using The Custom Saber Shop conversion kit . The saber will retain all sound functions and use the original switch. I make no guarantees that the wiring etc that I say to use in this tutorial will be the same in all models. You will need to have basic soldering and mechanical skills to do the conversion. You can reuse the stock MR blade by wrapping some tape around the base of the blade so that it will fit inside the blade holder. When finished you will have one very strong saber as everything between your hands and the PolyC blade will be metal with no weak plastic.

Parts List
Hasbro Obi Wan TPM
Conversion Kit
8.7 Degree Collimator Lens
Lens Holder
Rebel Star LED
Thermal Tape

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Remove the pommel and battery pack:

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Next, remove the gold knob (unscrew it) and the red knob. To remove the red anodized knob, you need ot use a nail set or punch to remove this pin:

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Then unscrew the set screw inside the black switch post and it slides out:

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you should now have these pieces:

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Now, you need to knock the set pin (here) out with your nail set:

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and remove the Faux LED bezels (you can chuck them). I drilled out the plastic inserts then inserted my 8-32 tap, gave it a few twists and then unscrewed them:

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These are the little parts you should now have:

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The next step is to remove the emitter ring. It does twist off (try a strap wrench so you don't mar it a lot) but it is stuck with a VERY generous helping of Hfx "gorilla snot". Once it is off, slide the crown shroud off the emitter end:

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Now you have to remove the little plastic insert from the switch hole and push the set pin (circled) in with your nail set:

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Time to take inventory again, keep the stuff indicated in green:

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Now you can slide the blade/electronics sled out the emitter end of the hilt:

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You have another pin to remove with your nail set:

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and a plastic slider shim for the switch (it falls right out):

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STOP! WAIT! Take your time with the next step!!! (If you screw this up, don't say I didn't tell ya!)

With many MR/Hfx conversions, you do not need to "crack" the electronics chassis open. You need to for this one. The blade will not just "pull" out!!! You will ruin the connector if you try because there is a post (that one of the set pins went through) that holds it in. (see the red circle). How do you crack it open? Very carefully. You also need to be careful that you do not pull the blue wires from the switch (it is in the top half of the module.

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Once you have it apart, you can carefully unplug the wiring harness and disassemble the blade (just like any other MR/Hfx clash sensor removal):

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Now go ahead and assemble your BH module. Now is when you put the thermal tape on (not shown). It sticks between the LED and heatsink:

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and connect it to the wiring harness. (Don't forget your heatshrink!!! NO electrical or any other kind of tape is NOT acceptable!):

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Now you have to cut the plastic module right on this red line (both pieces):

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Once this is done, plug the wiring harness back in and test everything (just push the battery pack against the connector and flip the switch):

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If it works, tuck the wires under the board, glue the 2 plastic halves back together, put the switch shim back in(make sure it goes in the right way!) and line the BH up with the plastic module like this:

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Now you are ready to re-assemble the saber!

Carefully (while keeping everything aligned), slide the new module back into the hilt. Make sure to line up the holes like this:

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If it all lines up, pop the plastic insert for the switch back into place.

If all went well, the BH should not stick out more than 2-3mm.

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At this point, I test again:

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Next, replace the set pin (just pound it back in, but do it slowly and make sure it is aligned!), slide the crown shroud back on (lined up correctly of course), screw the supplied buttonhead screws into the BH (through the shroud) and screw the emitter ring back on, like this:

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Slide your black switch post back in and screw the set screw down tight. Also screw the "valve" back in:

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Line up the set hole on the red anodized knob with the set hole in the switch post and slide the set pin back in (or just hotglue it on):

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...x/102_3790.jpg

And one final test for posterity:

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All that is left to do is add a blade set screw. I like black set screws for this conversion. This is how I do it:

line it up, center it and drill it:

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tap it:

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and add the set screw:

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Now you are ready for the "Black Mat"!

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