WIP -Fett263's Proffieboard Kylo CG 2.0 Neopixel (Pic Heavy)

I'm about to start my 2nd Proffieboard build (and 2nd Crossguard build) and wanted to do more of a true step-by-step WIP for this one. This is only my third saber build, but I learned a lot on my Prizm Crossguard & Proffieboard Graflex that I want to bring into this saber. I have a lot of modifications planned for this one, both in the set up but also the finishes and "accuracy". This will be a little trial-and-error along the way as I have a lot of things planned in my head but also have realistic expectations that some may not got 100% as planned (which I've experienced on the other two builds but didn't document as much). This will be a long project, I plan to take it slow and check everything over multiple times, but I'm psyched at the potential end result.

I have a lot of modifications in my head for this build but I'll cover each one as it "comes to life".

For a start point I am planning to take my "backup battery" plan from my Graflex to the next level for this saber. I'll be using two 2 21700s in this saber with one as primary and the other as backup. They will be controlled using a 3-position (On-Off-On) SPDT switch which will also be the "kill switch" when in the middle position. Since there is no good location for a recharge port/kill key this switch will be the On-Off for power to the board and the toggle between batteries so when the first gets low, I can easily toggle to the 2nd to get double run time. Both batteries will be connected with JST connectors so I can also swap them out during longer events and still get double time. Everything will be accessed through the revel chamber. Since the USB on the Proffieboard needs to accessed for updates, etc. the chassis I'm using will also be accessed through the reveal chamber.

I was originally looking at a DPDT switch but it was too large to fit easily in the saber, so I'm going with the 3-position SPDT switch like so:
Attachment 17085

I've been doing an initial rough fit and it's going to be very tight but so far I'm pretty sure I can make it work, I will be "measuring thrice, cutting once" on this since I know I need to mod things to get it all to fit just right.

Started out with some measurements to get a rough idea of what I'm working with, the plan will be for the chassis and 28mm bass speaker to be in the bottom portion:
Attachment 17086

I've already modified a chassis (more on that later), this will hold the Proffieboard and the SPDT switch.
Attachment 17087

The chassis and speaker (without switch):
Attachment 17088

The switch will extend a little into the reveal cavity so it can be accessed to turn on the saber and toggle between the batteries:
Attachment 17089

Here is the initial rough plan/layout - battery - battery - chassis - speaker
Attachment 17090

The chassis will not be attached to the speaker mount, the speaker mount will be fixed to the base of the inner tube (which will need to be cut once I'm 100% sure of the fit), the chassis will be able to slide up into the reveal chamber by removing the middle battery.
Attachment 17091

Both batteries will be able to be accessed through the reveal chamber for recharging or swapping, they will be connected with JST connectors to the switch/board. The top one slides in first, then the chassis slides down, then the middle battery is put in.
Attachment 17092

Next step will be putting the main blade neopixel connector together (hopefully this weekend) so I can make sure there is still enough room for it and to also see how the wiring works with the batteries, particularly the top one, there is room but it's going to be very, very snug with the wiring for the three connectors running the length of the saber. I am planning to use the GX-16 connector like I did on my other sabers, it's a personal choice, the PCB connectors are probably just as good but I'm comfortable with them and like that they only fit one way so I can get everything positioned how I want and repeat everytime.

More to come...

Got the neopixel connectors wired up so I can test fit all of the wiring. I'm using 3 pin GX-16 connectors with Shtok's connector holders. For the main blade I decided to wire up 3 negatives to make connecting to the board easier, it adds two wires to the mix.
Attachment 17099

Now for the test fit, I will need to open up the side blades to 7/8 inch, so for now the connectors don't fit in but I'm only testing the wiring.
Attachment 17100

I do want to make sure the main blade connector is in the position I want though to ensure it will fit with the double batteries.
Attachment 17101

Next I put in wiring to represent the buttons, still have to determine AUX position, have two ideas but they will depend on space available so for now I just have wires to fill the body with and get an idea of how to run.
Attachment 17102

Next I insert the top battery, it is very snug and I don't want to force it and kink up the wires.
Attachment 17103

And here's the first hiccup and the reason I'm testing everything first, with the wires all running along the bottom the battery will be too tight for the button wires to fit through the window, so I'll need to tackle this, probably need to create a notch or channel in the inner tube for the wire to run through, may need to notch the inside of the shroud too.
Attachment 17104

So that's noted, I move the wire out of the window but keep in the body to account for it with spacing and the battery fits so I'm happy.
Attachment 17105

Next I pull the wires through the chassis and slide it in, I also include the two JST wires that I'll need for the battery connections, these will take up a little more space than the wires so need to account for them too.
Attachment 17106

The top battery and main neopixel connector are exactly where I want them.
Attachment 17107

There's a lot of wires but it's looking like everything will still fit.
Attachment 17108

Continued next post...

2nd battery going in and it fits "like a glove", I did have to lay the JST connector flat.
Attachment 17109

Next I put the inner ribbed cover on, the battery is sitting just slightly high, it's the JST connector's fault, I might try to have the connectors in the space under the chassis although it's snug now, but I think when I actually wire up the board it will thin out the wiring and give me a little extra room. If not, I may just sand down the inside of this cover a few mm to let it sit flush.
Attachment 17110

And just to finish it off, the outer cover. Also, just slightly raised where the battery is sitting on the JST connector, but I have two options when I get to the final fit so I'm not concerned.
Attachment 17111

That's it for today, but so far a few things to address but the overall concept looks like it's viable so I'm excited.

Next step, figuring out the Aux button. Going in I had 2 main ideas, neither were going to work as I wanted, so ended up going with a modification to Goth's location. With the second battery there just isn't enough room in the emitter/shroud area for a switch so I am going with a mini momentary switch, like you'd used on the clamp card of a Graflex and I'm mounting it in the hole for the side "buttons".

Attachment 17114

I had to open up the hole with a dremel cutting bit, did a little at a time, I want a snug fit so the switch can't move down, the hole is actually cut at a slight angle from the inside so I wouldn't damage the outside (the inside got chewed up a bit but nobody will see it) and the angle lets the switch go in but it gets lodged at the height I want it.

Attachment 17115

I'll be using theProplicator's clear buttons instead of the red ones that come with the Korbanth (eventually they'll be weathered a bit like the reference images).

Attachment 17116

I will have to sand the button down slightly but it will work nicely, not bad for a third option.
Attachment 17117

I also dremeled channels into the "fins" on the inside to allow the power and Aux buttons to run. As noted earlier, with the second battery there is no way to pass the wires through the window for the power button so instead I'll be routing the wires from both in the channels. The inside got a bit chewed but it won't be seen so I wasn't too worried.

Attachment 17118
Attachment 17119

Then the wires will be routed to the large opening in the inner tube like so. This is only test fitting, I'll need to glue down the wires to keep them in the channels when it comes time to install.
Attachment 17120

Finally, while working on the shroud I also installed the 3 M3 button head screws. One of the original plans for the Aux button was going to be to use the center or side screw to press a switch, but the center one was much too close to the Power button so I knew I'd end up triggering accidentally, especially with gloves on and the side screws were going to be a royal PITA to install so option C won out.
Attachment 17121

Here's the reference photo:
Attachment 17122

That's all for now...

I wired up the Power and Aux switches, test fitting/installing both. Luckily, having built first my first CG I already dealt with the headache of the Power switch. If you haven't installed yet let me save you some serious frustration - DO NOT try to install the Power switch BEFORE you attach the shroud to the inner tube. No matter how small the wire or how low you solder it's not going to fit over the tube. Even with the notches in the shroud it still didn't work and the wire gets pinched or ripped as you try to slide the inner tube in. Just save yourself the frustration and anger and install the shroud, then install the Power button from inside the inner tube. ;)

The Aux switch worked like a charm. You'll want to wrap with electrical or heat tape so the solder points don't touch the metal on the inner tube when installed, otherwise it fit in easily, just need to route the wire into the groove I created and keep it in place when sliding the inner tube in.
Attachment 17128

For the Power switch after several attempts I ended up having to cut a channel into the inner tube from the window to the large opening, this will be to put the wires in place. As noted above, the fit is too tight to try to have the wires in place and then slide the tube in.
Attachment 17129

For the Aux switch as long as you keep the wire in the grove it slides in no problem. I had to take my time sliding the tube in and pulling the wire in to prevent kinks.
Attachment 17130

Then I put the Power switch in place and roughly route the wires.
Attachment 17131

The wires are going to be pushed down by the shroud, so you'll want to "feel" for them from the inside to keep in the cut out channel as best you can, mine still moved but I'm not gluing the switch in now so I can still go back and get the wiring just right. The reason for this is that the battery fits pretty snug here and I need to run the wires to the bottom and it leave no room for the wires to pass through the top window for the Power switch.
Attachment 17132

I am not gluing the switch in place at this point, I won't do that until everything else is successfully installed, you need a strong glue to hold the switch in place from constant pressing but once you glue it you're not getting the shroud back off without a major headache (I learned that on my first build too) so for now it's just being put in place.
Attachment 17133

I'm using the KR saber accuracy kit instead of the button cap that comes with the saber, but either way you want to make sure you can add the button cap BEFORE you finally glue the switch in place.
Attachment 17134

Nice progress!

Thanks, trying to think everything out and document it all as I go.

Got a bunch done today, I'm using the 28mm bass speaker so I cut ~7mm off the inner tube with pipe cutter to allow for space.
Attachment 17151

I'm using Goth's 28mm bass speaker holder for 1.12" ID to mount the speaker. I needed a separate speaker mount that could be static while the rest of the chassis moves for access to the Proffieboard. I had to cut it down to fit as the original length was too much.
Attachment 17152

For the pommel, I had previously painted the silver ring black with the Tester's Flat Black Enamel for better accuracy and overall look, I painted everything except the threads since the insert will screw in and cover. I sanded lightly and it took a couple of coats but it blends in great now.
Attachment 17153
Attachment 17154


Next I installed the Pommel using the included set screw
Attachment 17155

I'm using the KR Saber accuracy kit clip and screws, I will eventually weather these but I'm installing for now.
Attachment 17156

Next the speaker goes in, originally I had planned to attach the mount to the inner tube but it actually proved unnecessary once I got everything measured out and rough fit, so for now it's just inserted.
Attachment 17157

I'm using Goth's Pommel insert in Polished Bronze-Silver Steel. I gave it a light buff and scraped out the excess print material between the details.
Attachment 17158

The Pommel insert actually holds the speaker in place pretty well, so I may not need to attach, we''ll see.
Attachment 17159

It looks so much better with the ring painted black now, very happy with it.
Attachment 17160

Well I have one to install, so I'm watching still!!!!! Great work Fernando, lots of great ideas here for sure.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tom Tilmon

Well I have one to install, so I'm watching still!!!!! Great work Fernando, lots of great ideas here for sure.

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Thanks, just started opening up the side ports to 7/8 inch, it's a slow process, can only do a little at a time because it heats up so quickly. The top section needs the most modifications but when it's done it'll be downhill from there.