Build/Parts List Check: MHS CFX In-Hilt RGB Tri Cree LED

The time has come!

Dad and I decided to start a new Father-Son project this holiday, and we settled on building lightsabers! This will be our first lightsaber build ever. I know it's advised to start super simple for a first build, but as this is a Father-Son project, and my dad is extremely well versed in electronics and mechanical know-how, we decided to go big. Below is a list of parts, the MHS Builder design, and a diagram depicting the chassis and wiring. A note on the chassis: I'm using a NB sized chassis for the CFX, as the CF doesn't fit, and I saw a thread here that showed how to modify a NB style chassis slot to accommodate a CFX board. Thread here

Parts:

Crystal Focus Sound Module X
x1

MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 17
MHS Flat Style Heat Sink
x1

MPS Pommel style 3 v2
x1

Hilt Style 5 (7" Fluted double female threaded connector)
x1

MHS choke style 3
x1

MHSv1 speaker mount Style 5 - For 28mm Speakers
x1

Saber Essentials 28mm Stealth V2 Speaker
x1

Switchcraft 2.1mm Power Jack
x1

18deg Tri-Rebel/Cree Star Lens
x1

Star thermal tape pad - Tri LED
x2

Red/Green/Royal Blue Cree XP-E2 CopperNova
x1

Panasonic Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 3400mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery
x1

MPS Insert style 1
x1

MPS Clip
x2

12mm Anti Vandal Momentary Blue Ring Switch
x2

Machine recessed 12mm AV switch hole
location: Power and Aux for CFX. Wherever is best in the smooth section of the hilt, closer to the choke. In line with blade.
x2

82ohm 1/4w resistor
x6

.3ohm 1w resistor
x6

1.2ohm 3w resistor
x6

28 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Black)
x3

28 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (White)
x3

28 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Red)
x3

28 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Green)
x3

Kill plug style 5 - Black
x1

Stainless 4-40 all thread
x4

Stainless Steel 4-40 Hex nut
x10

Chassis Disc style 5
x1

Acrylic Chassis Disc for Recharge Port - S8 (Black)
x2

Acrylic Chassis Disc for NB/Pico and 18500/18650 pack - S3 (Black)
x2

1/16" Heatshrink tubing
x3

3/32" Heatshrink tubing
x3

1/8" Heatshrink tubing
x3

3/16" Heatshrink tubing
x3

1" Anodized Black Aluminum 3/16" OD spacer
x2

1.5" Anodized Black Aluminum 3/16" OD spacer
x2

1/2" Anodized Black Aluminum 3/16" OD spacer
x2

1/4" Anodized Black Aluminum 3/16" OD spacer
x2

3/4" Anodized Black Aluminum 3/16" OD spacer
x2

Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)
location: This is for the Blade Retention Screw, so wherever is best

8-32 x 3/8" Stainless Steel thumb screw


Attachment 17662

Attachment 17663


Let us know if this all checks out, any recommendations, or additions you can think of! Thanks so much!

MTFBWY

EDIT: Diagrams seemed small when posting so here's another way to view it: https://imgur.com/a/RCEALjy

Looks good to me, though how are you going to have access to the 2.1mm charger port externally, not seeing any machining for it. Unless you plan on doing that yourself. I would also get some 24 gauge wire just for the Tri-cree LED, you don't want those to melt when pulling 1A each. Though that's just me being cautious.

Good idea about the 24 gauge wire.

The recharge port is going in-hilt. It'll be the first thing after the metal chassis disc, and it's not going to be accessible outside of the hilt. Unscrew the pommel, pull the chassis out an inch, plug it in. Thought about putting the port and a RICE port on the hilt itself for easy access, but I decided I preferred the way recessed switches look without a box, and it saves money too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Valcarion

Good idea about the 24 gauge wire.

The recharge port is going in-hilt. It'll be the first thing after the metal chassis disc, and it's not going to be accessible outside of the hilt. Unscrew the pommel, pull the chassis out an inch, plug it in. Thought about putting the port and a RICE port on the hilt itself for easy access, but I decided I preferred the way recessed switches look without a box, and it saves money too.

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If he’s using a Tri-Cree, 28 gauge is fine. It’s when you use Neopixel, that’s you need thicker gauge wiring.

Solid job spec’ing a first build...my gut tells me you will find something missing as many of us have, but TCSS is top notch in getting orders out fast, and while shipping is not cheap, it’s totally worth it with how fast your gear gets to you!

I think the internal recharge port is totally the way to go and always do that...and I have modified the acrylic discs a ton with files/Dremel to do all types of things. I suggest buying some extra chassis discs in case you break one doing a mod...also suggest grabbing extra basic parts in different varieties (resistors, screws - hex, grub, etc, an extra recharge, star tape, some o rings, covertec etc.). These are low cost per part and won’t hurt to have around as odds are you will have a blast and do another (or 10.)

This is totally preference, but in retrospect, I wish I had not chosen predrilled jokes for AV switches and gone with tactile momentary and drilled them out myself on my initial saber which was also MHS. AV switches are great, but take a ton of room in the hilt, require lots of extra wiring and are a bit of a pain to secure. You could do a crystal in there for the same space, similar wiring, and some creative chassis disc work.

Last...as this was more than I intended to drop, but you brought me back to my first build...the biggest help I have found is having the right tools for the job. Can make things infinitely easier. Lots of posts out there on great gear to make the job easier!

Best of luck!

Sorry...one more! Subscribe to the TCSS YouTube channel. Rob from Genesis Custom did lots of TCSS tutorial videos. I watched them before I placed my first order (and ordered helping hands before I hit submit on the TCSS order.). Then I actually played the video for the component I was building or wiring as I did it for the first time...test at every step so you can isolate issues. Build a test rig for your battery so you can test all of your leds when you wire them up. And for your first recharge port, wire it up externally, use the just to connect the battery externally and test all connections with your multimeter...make sure your +\- are proper before getting anywhere near the board! Bottom line...research (read the full NB manual from the plecter website), watch tutorials and test all throughout!