Graflex - MR soundboard - Tri Cree (G,R,RB) -

Hello this is my first build and i need some help .
This is my list of what i have / ordered on the way :

LIST:

TCSS PARTS---

1 of: Graflex 2.0 Saber Kit
2 of: Premium 28mm Speaker
2 of: 2W 28mm Bass Speaker
10 of: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Yellow) 0.25 per foot
10 of: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Red)
10 of: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Purple)
10 of: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Orange)
10 of: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Grey)
10 of: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Green)
10 of: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Blue)
10 of: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Black)
5 of: Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle
1 of: Custom Tri-Cree LED ( G ,R,RB ) (saving for another project now)
1 of: CREE XP-E2 Blue *( for this project)
1 of: CREE XP-E2 Red (for battle damaged luke esb)
5 of: Star thermal tape pad
5 of: 2.7ohm 10w resistor
5 of: 4AAA Battery Holder with JST connector

5 of: Cree/Rebel Lens Holder

10 of: 1/16" Heatshrink tubing


2 of: MHS speaker mount V6 - For 28mm Speakers
2 of: 9" Electronics shield for 1.25" ID tubes <--- MAY NOT FIT


VADERS VAULT ----

1 x 7/8" Diameter Blade
(Blade Style: Standard clear, Blade Size: 34", Tip Type: Bullet, Tip Style: Mirrored)

1 x Blade Dust Caps



1 x D-Ring Belt Clip


------------------------------------------------------------------------------

7/8" Aluminum heat Sinks for Tri Led
Quantity: 2

----------------------
Saberforge ----
blade plug
Color: Silver/BlackLength:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

MASTER REPLICAS 2004 LUKE ESB SOUNDBOARD

MR STOCK CLASH AND MOTION SENSOR


So my plan is to add sound & light in a TCSS Graflex 2.0 kit, I have a master replicas Luke esb soundoard as well as the clash and motion sensor.
I ordered all of my electronics from TCSS and the accessories else where. I have some issues that need resolving and guidance, I need to know how to even wire my LED and Power supply.. the female connector is connected to the soundboard and im not sure how to get the JST male connecters on the battery pack to fit a 5 pin male connector. and the female connector is a 7 pin and so i dont know how to connect the tri cree to it im thinking there are adapters. but id like that answered if possible. or if i need to desolder it with the desoldering pump i ordered. i ordered a couple of each thing except for the LED. but i have 2 different kinds of speakers ( planning on using the bass for this build )

can anyone give me tips on what else i need for this build..
pictures below, your help is greatly appreciated


Attachment 13064

Attachment 13065

Attachment 13066

Attachment 13067

Attachment 13068

The Graflex 2.0 kit has a 7/8" opening up front that acts as your blade holder, so that's not an issue. The chrome eye will act as the retention screw. The plug you mentioned, however, won't fit, since it's meant for a 1" opening.

The Lens and Holder you purchased won't work with the Tri-Cree. You'll either need an 18-degree Tri-LED lens or replace the LED for a single Cree.

If you want to use the existing LED, you can wire it straight to the board as seen in the MR conversion tutorials on this forum. You can wire up rB by itself for a deep blue or G and rB in parallel for an ANH aqua. You won't need any resistors. The board can't push two LEDs at maximum, but they'll still run just fine as a bright, custom-colored blade. I've wired up RGB LEDs and switches to an MR board in the past.

As for *how* the board is wired... I'm not really sure what you've done there. The white connectors should be plugged together with one lead going to the clash sensor, one shared between the other end of the clash and power+, and the other six power-. Or you could desolder the plugs and wire straight to the labeled board contacts in that area. That should leave separate connections on the other end of the board for switch+ and switch-, shared battery+/speaker+, battery-, and speaker-.

Don't think the MHS speaker mount or electric shielding will fit, either. Graflex 2.0 has a rear ID bigger than MHS but a few mm smaller than an authentic Graflex, so Graflex chassis discs also won't fit without modification. Would have to look outside this store for a solution to that.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kouri

The Graflex 2.0 kit has a 7/8" opening up front that acts as your blade holder, so that's not an issue. The chrome eye will act as the retention screw. The plug you mentioned, however, won't fit, since it's meant for a 1" opening.

The Lens and Holder you purchased won't work with the Tri-Cree. You'll either need an 18-degree Tri-LED lens or replace the LED for a single Cree.

If you want to use the existing LED, you can wire it straight to the board as seen in the MR conversion tutorials on this forum. You can wire up rB by itself for a deep blue or G and rB in parallel for an ANH aqua. You won't need any resistors. The board can't push two LEDs at maximum, but they'll still run just fine as a bright, custom-colored blade. I've wired up RGB LEDs and switches to an MR board in the past.

As for *how* the board is wired... I'm not really sure what you've done there. The white connectors should be plugged together with one lead going to the clash sensor, one shared between the other end of the clash and power+, and the other six power-. Or you could desolder the plugs and wire straight to the labeled board contacts in that area. That should leave separate connections on the other end of the board for switch+ and switch-, shared battery+/speaker+, battery-, and speaker-.

Don't think the MHS speaker mount or electric shielding will fit, either. Graflex 2.0 has a rear ID bigger than MHS but a few mm smaller than an authentic Graflex, so Graflex chassis discs also won't fit without modification. Would have to look outside this store for a solution to that.

---

Okay i just heard you cant put the LED in the blade holder that came with he graflex 2.0. Also im going to sand the plug to fit, those white connectors were put there already so i think ill desolder them. as for the speaker mount thats not a problem ill just wire the speaker to the battery holder. ****UPDATE**** Just ordered a cree XP-E2 royal blue and one in red. so my lens and holder will work ! and now i have a RGB for a better soundboard in the future.
thank you for the advice !

I'd really recommend figuring out a complete game plan (and perhaps having fellow members here verify that plan) before ordering anything else. The XP-E2 Royal Blue will work fine with the MR board, sure, but the center wiring hole in your 7/8" heatsink isn't compatible with single-LED stars, and TCSS hasn't released their heatsink yet. If you're going to make the existing heatsink work, you'll need to drill one or two extra wiring holes.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by x-4creator135

Okay i just heard you cant put the LED in the blade holder that came with he graflex 2.0. Also im going to sand the plug to fit, those white connectors were put there already so i think ill desolder them. as for the speaker mount thats not a problem ill just wire the speaker to the battery holder. ****UPDATE**** Just ordered a cree XP-E2 royal blue and one in red. so my lens and holder will work ! and now i have a RGB for a better soundboard in the future.
thank you for the advice !

---

You can put the LED in the blade holder it just requires some modifications. Basically, you need to drill and tap a hole just above the ribbed section of the blade holder for a retention screw to hold the LED module in place. If you want a working red button activation switch you also need to make an opening in the ribbed section below where the LED module sits in order to connect the wire to the activation switch.

Here is a link:
http://goth-customsabers.ftl-network...x-2-0-chassis/

It is for a specific chassis but it has some good info that can be applied to this Graflex 2.0 build.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kouri

I'd really recommend figuring out a complete game plan (and perhaps having fellow members here verify that plan) before ordering anything else. The XP-E2 Royal Blue will work fine with the MR board, sure, but the center wiring hole in your 7/8" heatsink isn't compatible with single-LED stars, and TCSS hasn't released their heatsink yet. If you're going to make the existing heatsink work, you'll need to drill one or two extra wiring holes.

---

You are right, though I have a lot of extra parts for many different builds now. I have been finishing up my planning while waiting for all my supplies & parts to come in the mail. I'll make a post with my plan before starting the build. Thank you I was planning on doing that to the heat sink when getting the single cree.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by RoninBJJ

You can put the LED in the blade holder it just requires some modifications. Basically, you need to drill and tap a hole just above the ribbed section of the blade holder for a retention screw to hold the LED module in place. If you want a working red button activation switch you also need to make an opening in the ribbed section below where the LED module sits in order to connect the wire to the activation switch.

Here is a link:
http://goth-customsabers.ftl-network...x-2-0-chassis/

It is for a specific chassis but it has some good info that can be applied to this Graflex 2.0 build.

---

Thank you very much that helped a lot, your help is appreciated

Alright so I have some updates as well as some questions..... **UPDATE** - updated list of whats been (newly ordered/on its way/arrived).


1 of: Graflex 2.0 Saber Kit
2W 28mm Bass Speaker
10 of: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Yellow) 0.25 per foot
10 of: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Red)
10 of: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Purple)
10 of: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Orange)
10 of: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Grey)
10 of: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Green)
10 of: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Blue)
10 of: 26 gauge wire (sold by the foot) (Black)
Collimator Lens 8.7 deg viewing angle
CREE XP-E2 Blue
Star thermal tape pad
2.7ohm 10w resistor
4AAA Battery Holder with JST connector
1/16" heatshrink tube
Cree/Rebel Lens Holder
7/8" Aluminum heat Sinks for Tri Led ( will cut holes on bottom for wires since its a single Cree ) thanks Kouri for that info.
momentary switch included with graflex 2.0 kit. ( HOW DO I DETACH THE STOCK SWITCH AND PUT THIS NEW ONE ON ) Desolder ???

nb v2 mws header and harness - the the header will be the adapter to go into the female connector on the MR board... 7 pin connector so im set, let me know if i need any other part to make sure the power supply gets connected on the 7 pin female connector.. thanks.

MASTER REPLICAS 2004 LUKE ESB SOUNDBOARD ( tested )

MR STOCK CLASH AND MOTION SENSOR still in holder ( tested )


Accessories ----

1 x 7/8" Diameter Blade
(Blade Style: Standard clear, Blade Size: 34", Tip Type: Bullet, Tip Style: Mirrored)

1 x Blade Dust Caps

1 x D-Ring Belt Clip

blade plug

graflex saber stand


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TOOLS:

soldering iron & solder

safety glasses

helping hands and hobby vise (recommended by TCSS)

Wire cutter - flush pliers

exacto knife

hot glue gun ( if needed )

tap handle and 8/32" set - 8/32 x 1/8" button head screw for retention screw to hold the LED module on the soon to be modified 7/8" blade holder that came with the graflex 2.0 kit!

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
fyi: I have alot of extra parts for each thing. extra LED, extra soundboard, everything so if i screw up bad there is still another .. hope ;)


Okay so thats what i have either with me or is on the way.. let me know if anything is missing . i checked and rechecked I have a nice solid list. Now here is where the questions pop in.



1. So if a MR soundboard has a max voltage of 6v and i have a 4AAA battery holder which is 6v, im just on that line (i have the correct 2.7 ohm 10 w resistor) is that good ? or should i just do another power supply with lower volts. im pretty happy about the 6 volts going to be juicing up on the LED but i dont want to kill the board.. so if the resistor will help against killing the board then i want to stick with this option only if its safe.

2. How do I REPLACE the switch with my momentary ?

3. I only have 26 gauge wire should i get a thinner 24 for certain parts ?

4. whats a good and easy chassis that can fit in a graflex 2.0 as well as fit a MR board.. or is there like an easy alternative ? just need a place for the electronics to be safe im not looking for a beautiful chassis.

5. how should I wire the single Cree to the MR board ? parallel ? or something else just not sure and im not too educated when it comes to that, though im researching all over the internet and forums and trying to learn but i need direct answers on this post because i couldn't find anything to help me. Thanks.

6. im going to buy a oem digital multimeter so i can test out the LED, how do i test it ? what wires/ cords do i need ? thanks

7. I am thinking about making the Led to have a quick disconnect so i can attach the red cree anytime i please , i already have another led, heatsink, lens holder etc. i just dont know what adapters i need.. the JST connectors ?? thank you. Just need to know how to accomplish the quick disconnect.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Statement - I have a 40 degree optic angle lens coming also ... its intensely going to center the LED to stay going straight in the blade rather than shooting outward... just going to test it and see how it looks ... i have to see if it will even fit the heat sink right.. this will be continued. i also have a really good blade coming that tries to keep the light throughout the entire blade to the top. so mix a great blade with an amazing LED & a optic angle of 40 ( possibly ) and you get a ***y gorgeous blade . Let me know what you guys think of this concept.


If there is anything i missed please tell me, let me know if there is any parts that wont work for my build or if i need to get something else.... if you have any advice on anything its greatly appreciated.


Will update soon just waiting on more parts... to be continued..

Just a couple notes:

1) If you want to be on the safe side, use rechargeable NiMH AAA batteries. You'll be at 4.8v (close to the original MR voltage) and have higher output current over Alkalines, which is really important for keeping the LED bright.

2) You can make a momentary switch work with the momentary-to-latching converter TCSS stocks.

5) There are MR conversion tutorials on this forum that cover wiring up a Rebel or Cree to a ForceFX board.

Statement) 40 degrees seems to be very wide - I think it's going to have the opposite effect of what you're looking for. I've had good personal experience with the 8.7 degree lens TCSS stocks, and I've heard good things about a 5 degree lens another seller carries, though I've not tried it myself.

UPDATES...

so once again I need some help though Ill update on whats been up so far. (not using the TRI Cree - saving for a future build)

Alot of parts came in the mail the past week, the only thing I am waiting on is the rechargeable NiMH AAA batteries (thanks Kouri)

While I was waiting for my parts i realized I had alot of extra parts, enough to convert my 07 Hasbro Anakin ROTS to have a more upgraded Sound so i used the Premium Speaker offered by TCSS. Then i used the single blue cree i was going to use on this graflex 2.0 ( making the 2.0 to have a quick disconnect for the LED meaning any color i please ) - A heatsink - the second momentary switch that came with the 2.0 - i added the 2.0 extra Graflex thumbscrew (2.0 will have the glass eye) - replacement front button - then the C-3 Chip used on the Anakin saber at the Celebration of Star Wars Convention- It was fun for my first Fx conversion - took only an hour or so. I will show pics of the Fx saber after the Graflex is complete.


Anyways back to the original build - once all the parts came I researched more about MR soundboards - the schematics of it and finally figured out which wire goes to each point. Though after putting together everything patiently and correctly (to my knowledge) all I ended up with was a very low sound. its like the volume went down .. Not muffled but as if it was far in the distance or just not enough power was getting to the speaker ( i did a speaker test using my finger as instructed by (Rob from Genesis Custom sabers), also the LED wasn't even turning on (its not a dead LED i checked it but using my multimeter after realizing this issue). the clash & motion sensors work great - Switch works- - the sound font is great for this 2.0 build - but i just cant seem to figure out whats wrong. the only two things that come to mind is that either malfunctioning board (which I am 95.7% sure it isn't that. The second thing is that it needs the 2.7 ohm resistor for the 6 volts i have going to the board (i didn't use the Resistor because i used the JST male & female connectors to attach the battery pack and just wasn't sure how to do the resistor with those covering the wires and i just dont know how to wire a resistor in general (help me ) if it is the 6 volts and everything would work fine with 4.8 then ill just use those batteries when they come in the mail later today and see if that is so. Another thing, I checked all joints and made sure each wire was secure so no loose wires is the issue. If anyone could help it would be very appreciated.


I would have added pictures of the soundboard but my Iphone battery is being a b*tch so my phone isn't turning on. it keeps popping up on the apple sign then shutting off even with the charger in - had a 80 % charge like what the hell - back to topic ... once i somehow fix this phone ill post pics of the soundboard and close ups of each connection if problem is not solved by then.

Thank you !