Parts List and Other Questions for 3D Printed Lightsaber

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10-04-2017, 10:55 PM
TheUnrealArchon

Parts List and Other Questions for 3D Printed Lightsaber
I have currently been working on designing from scratch a 3D Printed Lightsaber that I am now in the final stages of touch-ups and am now creating my final list of items to purchase for lights and sounds. I just thought it would be a good idea to run my current shopping list, circuit diagram and resistor math past the eyes of others who might be able to catch anything that slipped through my vision.

Parts List

Circuitry:
Nano Biscotte v4
Power Xtender™ 2.0

Power:
Panasonic 18650 Lithium Ion Battery, 3.7V, 10 A, 3200 mAh
2.1mm Power jack
Kill Plug

Lighting:
Red-Green-Royal Blue Tri-Cree XP-E2
Thermal Tape Pad
18deg Tri-Rebel/Cree Star Lens
MHS Heat Sink V3
36" TCSS Battle Blade

Sound:
28mm Bass Speaker

Accessories:
D-Ring Belt Mount

(ADDED NOTE: I'm still looking for a momentary button that is able to fit within a small space, aka I haven't started looking yet, but it's on my list)

Questions:
1. Is there a Lens Holder that I'm supposed to have for the 18deg Tri-Rebel/Cree Star Lens or is it built into the holes on the Tri-Cree?
2. I have heard debate as to whether the bass speaker or the premium speaker is better, which decent arguments for both? Is it worth buying both and changing it based off which I like better or just go with one? It's not a huge investment to get both, but if the difference isn't much, it's not worth it.
Circuitry

Below is a circuitry design that I drew based off of the Nano Biscotte v4 Manuel. I want to run this by people to ensure that I don't light myself on fire.

https://i.imgur.com/87G7u2U.png

Questions
1. What is the purpose/how am I supposed to use the Power Xtender? I think it's to be used for when the voltage of the LED is above that usable by the Nano Biscotte, but clarification would be appreciated.
2. Nano Biscotte manual states 4A per LED channel. Does that mean I need a Lithium Ion Battery with at least 12 A to run a tri-LED or does that mean it can send up to 4A per LED?
Resistor Math

(LED Properties)

Battery Voltage: 3.7 V

Red Cree Forward Voltage @1000mA = 2.65v
Resistance = (3.7 V - 2.65 V)/1000mA = 1.05 Ω
Power = (1000 mA)^2 * 1.05 Ω = 1.05 W

Green Cree Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.7
Resistance = (3.7 V - 3.7 V)/1000mA = 0 Ω
Power = (1000 mA)^2 * 0 Ω = 0 W

Royal Blue Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.4v
Resistance = (3.7 V - 3.4 V)/1000mA = 0.3 Ω
Power = (1000 mA)^2 * 0 Ω = 0.3 W

Questions
1. Should I forgo getting a resistor for the Green and Royal Blue and use the Drive and fDrive features instead?
Bonus
Those who were kind enough to read this far down through my help post gets to see some more cool photos of my print and my 3D CAD. I'm willing to answer any questions you have about my work, because I'm all giddy about this project.
https://i.imgur.com/xkPWl6u.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QOpHfnU.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/PIZXOs9.png
https://i.imgur.com/e3PIZzs.png
10-05-2017, 05:36 AM
rlobrecht

Nice design.

I'll let someone else tackle what a pex does. I haven't used one yet.

You do not need a 12A battery. It is max 4A per channel.

I would still use resistors. The 0.47 ohm ones are cheap and tiny insurance.

One last thing you may have forgot is a way to hold in your blade, although maybe not since you have a couple of screws in the photos. Most people use a set screw or thumb screw.

What are you printing with? Your print doesn't seem to have the tell tale lines of a common PLA print.
10-05-2017, 08:32 AM
arusiasotto

you can use a simple 6mm tactile switch. gives you leeway to design your power button however you like.
10-05-2017, 10:52 AM
TheUnrealArchon

Quote:

Originally Posted by rlobrecht

One last thing you may have forgot is a way to hold in your blade, although maybe not since you have a couple of screws in the photos. Most people use a set screw or thumb screw.

I have a hole on the top of the blade near the emitter that I'll be using for the thumb screw. I just haven't tapped it yet because I need to go buy some m

Quote:

Originally Posted by rlobrecht

What are you printing with? Your print doesn't seem to have the tell tale lines of a common PLA print.

It is infact printed using PLA. It was a very fine quality print so that layers are hard to see in the photo.
10-05-2017, 12:54 PM
rlobrecht

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheUnrealArchon

It is infact printed using PLA. It was a very fine quality print so that layers are hard to see in the photo.

Looks great.
10-05-2017, 01:26 PM
Whosle

Only concerns I have is blade holder length and thermal management.

It doesn't look like you have 1 1/2 inches of length for your blade holder. PLA isn't very strong, even at 100% infill. I use ABS and have minimum 1 1/2 length for my printed bladeholders (sink tube /heiland build).

Petg is a good choice for strength as well.

The heat from the LED might soften the plastic. Metal bladeholders also help dissipate heat.

How are you joining it together?

Looks good, I haven't made an entire 3d printed saber yet.
10-05-2017, 01:49 PM
TheUnrealArchon

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whosle

It doesn't look like you have 1 1/2 inches of length for your blade holder. PLA isn't very strong, even at 100% infill. I use ABS and have minimum 1 1/2 length for my printed bladeholders (sink tube /heiland build).

I've got 1.17" on the top side and 2.83" on the bottom side, so the top doesn't the 1.5" that you normally recommend. The PLA has a .44" thickness so it's pretty large. I could do a secondary print with more blade holder if I find it isn't sturdy enough.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whosle

The heat from the LED might soften the plastic. Metal bladeholders also help dissipate heat.

This is certainty a problem that I may run into. Currently it will fit flush within a 3D printed part.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whosle

How are you joining it together?

The 3D printed parts are tapped so screws can go through and connect to holes in the metal core. The Metal core is there for slight load management but also to add weight to the saber.
10-05-2017, 07:40 PM
Whosle

Well, if you aren't planning on full contact dueling, you might be ok. I have some pretty ghetto sabers still holding up.

If you haven't already, print out the NBV4 manual and write all your math down.

A PeX is used on the L3 pad. It is used to allow a 3 color for mixing or 3rd color for FOC. I would put the green die to the PeX because you don't need a resistor. It is pretty essential to your build for three color mixing.

I once read on here that blade holders should be 2 inches long, but I don't know if that includes heatsink Led and optics.