First Build - "Insight"

Hey folks, I wanted some feedback on my first build. I've tried to go for a graflex-inspired aesthetic that carries some of the "built out of random stuff" style of the OT sabers. I'd love feedback on both my parts list and the construction itself. I have no experience with any machining or electrical so have no idea if what I'm planning is even feasible. I haven't gotten a quote for the shroud or the powder-coating yet, but depending on how those come out it might adjust my plans somewhat.

Something to note is that this won't have any electronics to start - I'm getting the shell together and will be upgrading it slowly over time to spread out the cost a bit. Along with that, I'm waiting on a blade and will fill the gap with a plug as a display piece. Anyway, here's the list and concept.

All parts are TCSS

Parts List:
Blade Holder 19 [PC: Brass or Copper]
Ribbed V-grooved Extension
Short Choke 1 [PC: Brass or Copper]
4” Double Female Groved Ext [PC: Solar Flat Black]
Pommel 7
Pommel Insert 12
Bunny Ears [PC: Brass]
MHS Sleeve Material 12”, cut to graflex shape
24 8-32 x 1/8” Screws
2 4-40 socket head screws for bunny ears
MPS Clip
8 O-rings
Kill plug 5, silver
2.1mm power jack
16mm AV momentary, stainless
8-32 x 3/8” Brass thumb screw
Super lube
1” Hilt safety plug 2

http://i.imgur.com/6ekOfilt.png

Even though you’ll be doing the electronics “later”, you should plan your design as if you’re going to do it all at once, this way you won’t have to “redo” your design down the road because you forgot to take certain things into account.

For sure, that's exactly what I'd love to get feedback on. I was just meaning that it was the reason there weren't any electronics in the parts list. If there's a limitation on the future chassis, board, etc I def want to know now.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight

Even though you’ll be doing the electronics “later”, you should plan your design as if you’re going to do it all at once, this way you won’t have to “redo” your design down the road because you forgot to take certain things into account.

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Alright, so looking at a theoretical future electronics setup I think I have two options:

1) Try and move the switch up into the grenade handle (maybe into the top of the choke where it threads into the grenade?) and just put the whole NBv4 assembly with battery into the double female grooved extension in the bottom. I'm guessing from the pictures that the whole NBv4 mounted in a chassis can fit into about 4 or 4.5 inches of space - is this right, or am I totally off there?

or

2) put the sound and board in the bottom of the double female grooved ext with a normal chassis and run a wire to a battery in the grenade section, putting the battery in a MHSv2 chassis with ~.15 inches of padding to make it friendly with the reduced MHSv1 size in that section.

Real talk: do either or both of these sound dumb?

For balance you will likely want your battery closer to the speaker.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SimplicityLost

Alright, so looking at a theoretical future electronics setup I think I have two options:

1) Try and move the switch up into the grenade handle (maybe into the top of the choke where it threads into the grenade?) and just put the whole NBv4 assembly with battery into the double female grooved extension in the bottom. I'm guessing from the pictures that the whole NBv4 mounted in a chassis can fit into about 4 or 4.5 inches of space - is this right, or am I totally off there?

or

2) put the sound and board in the bottom of the double female grooved ext with a normal chassis and run a wire to a battery in the grenade section, putting the battery in a MHSv2 chassis with ~.15 inches of padding to make it friendly with the reduced MHSv1 size in that section.

Real talk: do either or both of these sound dumb?

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Theoretically, the first option is closer to the approach I'd take. That being said, which I THINK you could fit the NBv4, batt, speaker, etc in that 4in section, I fit a 3D printed chassis that included a recharge port in a 4in section of my hilt. Your recharge port is separate from the rest of your chassis, so that might save you some space. You'd almost certainly need to move the switch up higher as you suggested though.

Oh, and excellent plan diagram by the way. I love the look and feel of the lightsaber! Looking forward to a hopeful build log!

Thanks!

Another question real quick: if a recharge port is wired as a kill key is it still usable to recharge batteries or would I need a second port?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SimplicityLost

Thanks!

Another question real quick: if a recharge port is wired as a kill key is it still usable to recharge batteries or would I need a second port?

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Yes, it acts as a kill key and recharge port.

The kill function is actually just a handy side effect of a properly installed charge port. It's important so the charger can charge the battery directly without the electronics complicating the issue.

Cool, then all I'm waiting for is confirmation I'd be able to move the switch into the female end of the choke and I'll be able to start getting parts together. I'll def put up a build thread when I get there.

Thanks for all the help!

Alright, I have another question. Has anybody tried mounting a momentary switch as the primary power switch, then using a thumbscrew through a tapped hole to push it so that it stays pressed when the screw is tightened?

Also, what's the best way to communicate where holes should be drilled for the hole-drilling/tapping service?