Just scored a vintage Graflex...

So I just scored a vintage Graflex and am having trouble finding "how to" info for converting it to an ESB version Luke saber. FX-Sabers has a ton of info but seemingly only if you want to go all-out with an illuminated crystal chamber, and I'm not looking to go that far. I just want a solid, screen-accurate LED saber that can withstand trooping, spinning and light dueling. I'm looking at a NB setup with probably a Rebel Star Cyan LED.

Am I correct that pretty much need to get a hilt kit like those sold by Blast-Tech, and Tim's Graflex LED adapter, and then just figure out how to take the thing apart to get the electronics in?

Thanks!

conversion kit is a must. if your using a sound board then all the wiring info will come with the board.then its just a matter of bunging it all in and turning it on.....mostly. look through the threads here and you will find all the info you need or look for someone that has made one and PM them for any tips.wiring hilts is pretty generic when it comes down to it..battery speaker switch led etc.. making it all fit in the hilt is the real trick

Yes, definitely check for information on how to properly dismantle the Graflex. If you can't find a tutorial, then PM one of the members here who have done their own. I know slothfurnace has dismantled quite a few vintage Graflexes, and he may be able to give you a few tips for taking them apart.

Thanks; there's a good tutorial on dismantling over at fx-sabers. I just wanted to confirm that all I need to do is shove the electronics in once I get it dismantled. Tim seems to have an LED adapter/blade holder available here which would seem to be the only real "kit" part I need (aside from the hilt pieces like the grips, etc.)

The wiring I'm fine with--done that before. I just wanted to make sure the mounting didn't require anything special.

"Shove" is probably the wrong word to use. I'd try "insert" instead. :D

You'll probably want to build a chassis to hold your electronics in place and keep them from banging around inside the hilt. Other than that, I understand it's a fairly straightforward process.

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Originally Posted by Silver Serpent

"Shove" is probably the wrong word to use. I'd try "insert" instead. :D

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How about "Jam?" ;).

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You'll probably want to build a chassis to hold your electronics in place and keep them from banging around inside the hilt. Other than that, I understand it's a fairly straightforward process.

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I've been considering that. For my other sabers I have not done so--I've simply wrapped the board in electrical tape or heat shrink or sealed it in a static-free bag to keep it from shorting out. But that's admittedly laziness at work and not the proper way to go about it. I've read that PVC sink tube tailpipes are good to use. I'll have to investigate.

I'd go the PVC or other route. Wrapping in electrical tape or heat shrink is a bad idea. The board puts out heat that needs to dissipate. It can't if it's wrapped up.

Grey Elf-

I'm in the same boat here. Have my vintage graflex on the way and want to keep the build fairly straight forward. Is this the adapter you are using?

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LE...ter--P221.aspx

If so, have you been able to verify that this LED http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Re...dule-P653.aspx will work with that adapter?

I'm hoping it will, as that seems like a really easy straight forward setup. To keep things easy and cheap, I'm considering a hasbro sound card as well.

That is the adapter and no, that LED is not what you want. That's a Modular Wiring System unit. You want http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Lu...Star-P523.aspx or www.thecustomsabershop.com/LED-Engin-C112.aspx or something similar. You'll need to wire up the LED yourself, not use a MWS unit.

My Graflex arrived today, and I know why it was so cheap.

It's a 2-cell, not a 3-cell.

Which means that the bottom end is really short. Like, Yoda short.

However, I am thinking that I can jury rig an extension that will be invisible with a few parts from TCSS, and possibly some chrome tape and JB Weld. Guerilla-style!

Already got it disassembled and the guts removed. Was very easy to do. Looking forward to diving in to this. However, the conversion kit from Tim and hilt customization kit from blast-tech are going to cost me $70 or so, then the hilt parts I'll need will be another $30. I'm thinking I am going to stunt hilt it for a month, then dive into the electronics around July or so.

Gray- thanks for the Led help, I almost ordered the wrong stuff.

My grayflex is a two cell also. I was going to get some 1.5" stainless pipe to make an extension then weld or bolt in a cap. I might be able to do a second, if u are interested?

Hey, all, sorry for the thread necro...didn't want to start a new one for this.

Took me over a month, but I scored a proper 3-cell bottom tube! Will be ordering the hilt / conversion parts on Wednesday and hopefully the electronics later in August. I'll keep you all posted! Should I do the build thread here, or start a new one?