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I just recently started looking into led's again and ran into the CREE XP-E Q4 green with 3.9v at 1000ma. Has anyone tested this one out on a direct drive. It sounds like an easy build as the volts and stuff are low and looks to have more lm than a lux V.
http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power...9_120_138.html
maybe but what about optics?
i believe the site has optics for cree and maybe the optics used for the luxeon rebels may work for it as they are about the same size
You're better off using a rebel green. They put out 180 lumens at 700mA (@ about 3.2-3.4V). They exceed 200 lumens at 1000mA (max rated amperage)
Had a couple on the bench about 6 months ago (Blue and Green), they seem really bright and you can get some nice shades to, I believe they are rated 200 Lumens for 700mA. Now they have narrow Tri-Optics it might be worth trying 3 of them in Parallel, stay tuned as I might just get some rebels for comparison sake :cool:
yeah a comparison would be sweet. I was looking around the site and the rebels seem to only put out like 80 lumens. I have always been wary of the rebels as they are small and I'm trying to beat out my luxeon V. Not to mention they are hard to get nowadays.
It's hard to compare lumens between Lux and Cree LEDs. They each rate their own, and Cree overstates theirs.
just decided to go with a ledengine 10 watt quad green on 14.8v 2200ma lion set up for a quick brightness whore set up. have to machine a new hilt for that one though. generation two should be sicker than ever.
Think about the parallel pcb version, 16v packs are not so good in some ways.
10 Watts are all good and all, but you have to look at it in a compatibility sense. For example; you take a CF V5 which can throw out 2A, take 3 Cree XPE's in Green in parallel - giving you 500+ Lumen with a good 8 Degree Tri-Optic.
So equip yourself with a good battery setup, take no worries with heat management as its not an issue because your only dealing with 6.8 Watts - a normal TCSS heatsink will deal with that easily.
As for the optics, as long as you use a thin walled blade (21mm ID) with the Tri-Optics (20mm) you will get plenty of light up the blade
Heres some rough specs for Parallel set ups:
Tri-Star Green XPE's - 3.2V @ 2100mA = 600 Lumens
Tri-Star Blue XPE's - 3.2V @ 2100mA = 210 Lumens
Tri-Star Red XPE's - 3.2V @ 2100mA = 300 Lumens
Tri-Star White XPE's 3.2V @ 2100mA = 1110 Lumens
Take the CF as an example, it will only give out 2 Amps, but trust me, 100mA makes hardly any difference. Even when they are powered at 1 Amp, they can chuck out some fantastic numbers - Green would be 300 Lumens, Blue 105 Lumens, White 417 Lumens.
So for what its worth your only dealing with 6.8 Watts, I'd rather deal with that myself then 16.8V @ 1 Amp for the same Numbers LOL
Are you speaking about these tri-stars from experience? I'm just curious to see the opposition to what I've seen all over the forums here, which is tri-stars (of any brand) aren't very good for lightsabers. Lots of people use the 10W Ledengins, though, with much success.
I am only aware that the Tri Rebel Endors are bad for sabers.
Xwingband made some sort of holder/heatsink setup that allowed the use of tri rebels, but I don't know anything more about that.
the endors dont work because the dies are towards the outside of the star, but there are triple die stars that the emitters are close to the center of the star that are usable. there are optics for these stars available that can be used in saber construction
Oh yeah don't get me wrong I've had a play about with 10 Watts and they are great but the concern for us brightness lovers is how much voltage they need, and the concern I've had is heat. Tri-stars on the other hand have had a good few hiccups, their primary example is optics, but like all things = they get better.Quote:
Originally Posted by RevengeoftheSeth
To get good results with any LED is down to optics, you need to get that light up the center of the blade as much as you can - which is why in my theory you really want thin walled blades, the optics used for Tri-Stars at the moment are 20mm in diameter - the opening of thin walled blades are about 21mm, so theirs just a hair of room to get that light up their enough to get good results.
10 Watts are fantastic when its come to this, 4 dies under one dome and optics that can shoot light up the blade dead in the center - on the other hand to get up their in the 500's you need 14-16V + and defiantly some form of good heat management.
The main thing we could gain from this is brightness at lower Volts and Amps - in the same sense the automotive industry use = the more things you shave off the more efficient things become
Looks like the PSU is coming back out - now where to find a Camera? :D
LED its self w/ the optics:
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...ipleseries.gif
For green and blue there is still no competition for the SSR90 even at 2 amps. ;)
Alright for some ;) I might just go on an optics hunt heheheheQuote:
Originally Posted by Sunrider