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Hi, im New to the saber building community. I finished my second build but my first build with the prizm soundboard. It is A total conversion of the hasbro Kylo Ren crossguard-saber. Everything works fine, bootup, leds, Power on. But heren the problem starts. Aftermath the ignition, the sound goes in some kind of loop. I cant figure out what sound it is. Swing or clash. It Just keeps repeating. Is this a defect board? Maybe the setting are incorrect. I dont know. Anyone an idea?
That kind of behavior is usually an indicator that your battery needs to be charged. What kind/type are you using with it?
I used two kinds. A trustfire 2200mah and Panasonic 3400mah both fully charged . Didnt make any difference.
Next most likely scenario: are you using resistors, or are you letting the board control all the current? For sound boards without a current regulator (Petit Crouton and Crystal Focus), it is good practice to have at least a nominal resistor on each LED channel. Unresistored LED setups can cause quirky behavior like you've described as well.
Hi, yes i used resistors on all leds. 5 leds (3 main blade and 2 side blades. I used 3 resistors. I bundeled A few together.
I did not braid the switch wires together. Could that be the problem?
Hi, does anyone know if the heatsink acts as A ground?
It's not supposed, no. The wiring for your led, soundboard and battery should be isolated from the hilt. If you have a mutli-meter, check to see if you have current from the hilt or heatsink...if you do, you have a short somewhere that is grounding against the hilt.Quote:
Originally Posted by Janus666
I did A miniature setup with another led. Board works fine. But when i connect it to the saber, same problem is back. Im gonna disassemble my saber and look for shorts to the hilt. In my other saber i have the resistors on the plus side and works well. Do i suppoost the wire the resistors on the negative side? Thx
If you plan on color mixing with an RGB set up, you will need to put the resistors on the negative side if you use a common positive from the battery to the led (I do this to save space and wires...only 4 going to the led this way). If you splice the positive into three leads for the led, your resistors can go there, but then you've got 6 wires going to the led. If all you're doing is running a single color set up with another for FoC like say, RRW, then you can put the resistor on either the negative or positive.
If your board works fine with another led, you may have something shorting on the heatsink on the other led module.
Problem solved ! The ground from the switch was shorting to the hilt. Thx for al the help :D