Printable View
I know that it's hard to photograph illuminated things without making them look too bright or whatever. Take models for example. If you photographed a lit model kit, the lights would look too bright.
Are the saber blades in your hand look nice and even when lit? Because all the pics I've seen, the lower part of the blade looks very bright while the end of it is much dimmer.
thanks for reading.
I think some people don't realize that this thread exists:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...aph+lightsaber
Usually, people post pictures of the hilt in light, then show off the blade in a dark room in another picture.Quote:
Originally Posted by a fearsome grue
This might help you:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...aph+lightsaber
That would be an LED saber. This thread discusses the differences in electronics:Quote:
Originally Posted by a fearsome grue
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=2087
No problem. You need to do more reading as well. Most of your questions can be answered in many existing threads. Just use the search function, and use the Thread Index.Quote:
Originally Posted by a fearsome grue
EDIT: Bah, J-Lo ninja'd me. ;)
allow me to rephrase (or didn't you read my post?)
Is the blade illumination even when you're holding it in your hand?
Hm. Let's follow the link I posted, and go to the bottom of the post where it explains LED sabers...
Quote:
We use Luxeon brand LEDs. They are extremely bright versions of the LEDs you may have seen in small key chain flashlights. In fact, LED sabers are basically really powerful flashlights. The color is determined by the LED in the hilt. A Polycarbonate blade is used to contain the light. A diffuser and optics are also used to direct the light up the tube. LEDs are much brighter than the brightest EL. The downside is that the color is not even (the light will fade more towards the end of the blade and tends to flare at the base). Changing colors is not as easy but there are two options: The Modular Hilt System using a quick change kit, and colored discs. The quick changes' disadvantage is that is requires unscrewing the blade holder and unplugging the LED. The color discs work by using a white LED. Changing colors is achieved by removing the blade and placing the filter over the LED and optics. The disadvantage is that a filtered LED will always be less bright than the pure LED of that color. LED blades are 1" in diameter.
In fact, I did read your post, since I quoted the thing in my previous post.Quote:
You need to do more reading as well. Most of your questions can be answered in many existing threads. Just use the search function, and use the Thread Index.
I think what he is trying to ask is this:
When you see pictures of LED sabers the base of the blade looks noticeably brighter than the tip (or the last 3/4 of the blade). Does it look the same in person when you have the saber in your hand or is this effect less noticeable?
I can't answer that question because I have not yet taken pics of my 1st saber, however, from what I have read...there are a lot of factors that determine whether or not a blade is evenly lit. Being that the light is projected from the base, the base will naturally be brighter than the rest of the blade. The rest depends on what kind/combination of diffusers are used in the blade as well as the optics on the LED and things like the thickness and length of the blade.
No matter what, you are most likely going to have to do some experimentation of your own to see what you like best. There is no 'one size fits all' solution to blade evenness and brightness.
I answered that. Twice. Now if AFG would be so kind as to apologize to me and thank me for my help, I can be on my way.Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Securis
There's some good info in that thread that J-Lo posted. I wasn't aware of that one.
I've been thinking about doing a good, detailed saber photography tutorial that Tim could sticky. You've given me the motivation to get it done. I'm off Saturday, and I'll start it then.
As for how even the saber blade looks in real life, there are two things to consider.
One is blade diffusion. If you build your blade right, it will be pretty even to begin with. Here's a picture I took recently, when I was trying to make a purple blade. Cellophane or polypropylene really makes a big difference in making an even blade. There's a bit of flare at the base, (you can never eliminate it entirely,) but the rest of the blade is very even.
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...c/100_4192.jpg
The other thing to consider is that cameras interpret light very differently than our eyes. A blade that looks uneven to the camera will look a lot better in person. Your eyes don't register the variation as you look down the length of the blade, especially if the blade is moving, but the camera records the whole blade in an unchanging image, and it's easier to see the difference.
BTW, I underexposed by two stops on that picture, which prevents the light from the blade from "blowing out" in the picture.
I hope that covers it for you.
Obi's post was dead on, and his pics are a good example of how blades "truly" look. He's right, the camera will 'see' that base flare more than your eyes IF you've built your blade right. I've seen many a crappy blade with out proper diffusion, and they will flare really bad even to the eye.
I just put a little less diffuser on the bottom for my first wrap.
then on my second layer I put a full wrap. It really helps with the flaring, although some people like that...
I posted something regarding this a long time ago... I don't remember where it is. It was basically on the "hopelessness" of getting A) "accurate" results (in terms of what it looks like in front of your EYES)... and B) the randomness you'd have trying to "compare" saber X made by you to saber Y made by someone else.
Why? Well... not to re-iterate totally my other thread:
* LED color... bin... batch... company... quality (even within the batch)
* optics--5 deg, 10 deg, reflector, blah blah blah
* blade length
* blade width/thickness/inner wall/outer wall
* diffusion type (and in some cases "how much"--like for wraps of poly-p)
* mirror tip--is it done correctly/badly/ok/etc.
* blade socket depth--how far does blade go into hilt
* driving method (direct? driver? Enough voltage? 1A or 1.2A, etc.)
* Distance from camera
* angle of photo taken
* ambient light
* exposure
* Camera type and its CCD biasing! Some cams "favor" color spectrum X-Y vs. spectrum A-B.
Sadly... there are more, but once you take even 5 of these into consideration, you have a perfect mess in terms of trying to play "comparison" games.
In the end, you should take photos of your sabers, trying to achieve a look that YOU think "best copies" what YOU see in person... and be on your way.
I've taken photos of my sabers where they look abysmally dim... and then ones pop out that look "more like it". Whatever.
Video is a big improvement... but STILL offers some issues in messing up how things "truly look".
If someone asked my retarded opinion--I say photos are USELESS for things as dynamic as sabers... video is key. Especially if you want to give the overall feel of a saber created.
It's also one of the reasons why I set up this "challenge video" thing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zim1fByXzGQ
That's just challenge #4 (CF sabers). The point with all the challenges is to have essentially a "library" of sabers for any newcomers to take in the amazing variety, dynamics, and sheer amount of possibilities.