I've wired up a few NBv4's and never run into this problem. Everything's working great except there's no flash-on-clash. Any common reason for this?
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I've wired up a few NBv4's and never run into this problem. Everything's working great except there's no flash-on-clash. Any common reason for this?
Have you checked through the configurations to make sure you have everything set properly?
Yes - it's the same as I've used before (with a different color in each bank):
//Nano Biscotte 4.0
drive=1023,0,0
fdrive=1023,1023,1023
focmix=001
resume=0
shmrd=210
shmrp=6
shmrr=13
shmr%=0,50
focd=200
focp=10
focr=10
foc%=0,80
qon=0
qoff=0
flks=3
flkd=20
pulsed=0
pulsel=0
lsfadeon=0
lsfadeoff=0
lightstick=0
omnisabers=0
I've got no motion-sounds - no clash - nuttin. Are there other configurations I should be looking at?
No. Please take a good, high quality, closeup of the top of your NB board. It sounds like a component may have possibly sheared off.
Thats very fuzzy. Any way to take a clearer picture, and a little closer?
Yeah, sorry - here it is:
Attachment 17243
Also, can you do the underside of the board?
Here you go, Dr. Let me know when to turn my head and cough. :D
Attachment 17252
Ha ha. I don’t see any apparent hardware issues. I’ll ask Zook to take a quick look. I’ll take a look at your config later when I get a chance to sit down and concentrate, unless someone else beats me to it.
Check the override.txt file.Quote:
Originally Posted by CDSabers
## Override File
vol=4
beep=40
rebootd=1250
motg=500
muteoff=0
gate=70
hclash=700
hswing=220
offd=200
swing=200
clash=150
deep=15000
ledstrip=0
ls0=14
ls1=28
Try lowering the gate down to 15, and see what happens.
I changed it to:
gate=15
No difference. Still no swing or clash.
it looks like your L3 is bridged across to the small circular patch next to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by CDSabers
It’s a possibility. Try removing that wire (and cleaning up the solder) and see what happens.
I would reworking all of those joints. There is a lot of bare wire to risk shorting, and the some joints look dry and may not be making good conductive contact. The gaps indicate that you probably aren't using enough heat. The whole pad should have flowed with solder and the wire should be centered on the pad.
I re-soldered L3. Here's a super CU of the connections:
Attachment 17253
Attachment 17254
Those joint don’t look that great. The important joint was the wire in the middle of the board, as that may be causing a bit of an issue.
The solder should be shiny and should follow to cover the pad. Those are cold joints. To properly flow the joint you need to apply the iron to the pad and the wire run the solder. If it's sticking to your iron it's a sign your too is is either not hot enough. If you are just blobbing solder on your iron and trying to stick it to the pad that isn't a good method either.
And so one of those joints would be causing the lack of swing and clash? I've done a few of these boards and this is the first time this has happened.
I'm seeing a couple of cold solder joints and a wandering strand of wire on the speaker connection. The solder point for the L3 wire looks to be shorting out to the small pad just above it in your picture. The L3 pad would be the first thing I'd look at. Just my two cents, hope you work it out.
After a few more trials - I found the problem was with a nearly visible piece of solder on the only pad I didn't photograph (the one on the center of the board. Thanks for everyone's help!