placing speaker by blade emitter

Anyone else hate that the sound comes out of the pommel instead of sounding like its coming from the blade? I do, so im working on fitting the speaker unit to sit just below the LED, projecting its sound in the direction of the blade. Anyone have some tips on how I can accomplish this? The only real issue is the wires for the LED not being able to go around the speaker to connect to the internals.

The easiest workaround I can think of is to drill a hole below where the speaker sits and just below the LED and have the wires go along the outside, covered by a shroud...

Lots of sabers in the gallery use "reverse sound" setups, with the speaker facing the blade yet staying inside the MHS parts. If you're using one of the Shop's speaker mounts, they have to be modified to allow the LED (and whatever else if forward of the speaker) wires to pass - you can cut grooves or just chop out a section as needed. Just don't take too much or the holder won't do its job, or you'll have to try hot glue or something to help hold it in. Remember to drill some holes to allow the sound to escape, but if you're using a shroud you can hide those holes...

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Originally Posted by Child0fTheMind

Anyone else hate that the sound comes out of the pommel instead of sounding like its coming from the blade? I do, so im working on fitting the speaker unit to sit just below the LED, projecting its sound in the direction of the blade. Anyone have some tips on how I can accomplish this? The only real issue is the wires for the LED not being able to go around the speaker to connect to the internals.

The easiest workaround I can think of is to drill a hole below where the speaker sits and just below the LED and have the wires go along the outside, covered by a shroud...

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The process/technique/effect is called Reverse Sound (tm). It was invented/developed by a prominent member of our community if I recall....some time around 2007-2008.

The way you suggest sounds like it will work well.

You are thinking about this too much. You do not need to do any crazy modifications to make reverse sound work. One rather easy way to do it is just cut a piece of PVC to stop the speaker from moving, and pass the wires by it, then hot glue said speaker in place. You can put a thin layer of hot glue around the speaker to prevent shorts. Boom. DUN.

And if you use this method, make sure to give proper credit to the member who developed this technique when you post it. His name is right above this, in the previous post. ;)

LOL that is pretty funny

My apologies, LDM, I should have given proper credit. I'll go sit quietly in the corner now.

I don't care for pommel oriented sound either. All my hilts are "reverse sound". I really wish LDM came up with a better term since the common standard with master replica/hasbro has always been the reversed of what it should be.

I've run as many as ten wires past a speaker by simple filing channels out of the speaker holder and fixing them in place with a dab of hot glue. Alternatively you can also achieve a lot of forward oriented sound by simply allowing room for sound to travel up from the pommel to sound vents near your blade holder.

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Originally Posted by Crystal Chambers

I don't care for pommel oriented sound either. All my hilts are "reverse sound". I really wish LDM came up with a better term since the common standard with master replica/hasbro has always been the reversed of what it should be.

I've run as many as ten wires past a speaker by simple filing channels out of the speaker holder and fixing them in place with a dab of hot glue. Alternatively you can also achieve a lot of forward oriented sound by simply allowing room for sound to travel up from the pommel to sound vents near your blade holder.

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This is a very nice suggestion, Caine's is also perfectly valid. I have done both.

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Originally Posted by amwolf

My apologies, LDM, I should have given proper credit. I'll go sit quietly in the corner now.

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LOL, no need for that, you gave him good information :lol:

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Originally Posted by Crystal Chambers

Alternatively you can also achieve a lot of forward oriented sound by simply allowing room for sound to travel up from the pommel to sound vents near your blade holder.

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Which was also pioneered by a prominent member of our community. He just didn't give it a fancy name. ;)

Hi!,

There's one question where I'm not clear here and was hoping someone can clear up. The internal wiring is quite logical and I did something similar with a recharge port while being unaware of the technique but I'm a little less clear on "hiding" the holes using a shroud. I went searching through the threads using "reverse sound" as the search term and found a number of sabers with holes drilled in a choke or other piece of a hilt and open to the outside, which makes perfect sense, but what I'm not so clear on is the suggestion of holes in the saber, "hidden" by the shroud. Does this mean a hole through both shroud and saber which would not seem to hide the hole, or is there a hole in the MHS (or other) inner piece and this is covered by a shroud without an opening. The second possibilty doesn't make much sense to me since I would think that would prevent the sound from escaping the hilt, but it would definitely hide the hole. My apologies for what may seem a obvious question but, as I said, while there are a number of very impressive sabers listed on the board (and it was, as always, lots of fun looking at them...:grin:) with "reverse sound", I could not find an example that seemed to show how the shroud/hilt/reverse sound was achieved. My apologies in advance if I missed a thread on either how it is done or a saber that showed the application in a form that I could pick out. Thanks for any help!

Johannes

Holes can be hidden in a number of ways. They could be concealed in a black background (in flutes covered by a shroud), or just on a black background, or carefully concealed in a grenade section, which would let come sound out. Acerocket's Obi-TPM comes to mind, I believe that's how he did his. The holes could be a design element of a saber (which I am doing in an upcoming saber).

It can be done, you just have to be creative. ;)

It's also the case that Tim offers many custom machining services that could be used to create sound vents. If using a choke for a sound chamber, for example, you could get slots cut into the choke section. The only drawback there, aside from the increased cost, is the potential delay in availability; sometimes custom services are on hold if the backlog gets too long.

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Originally Posted by Jay-gon Jinn

Which was also pioneered by a prominent member of our community. He just didn't give it a fancy name. ;)

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Yeah, but he is an unassuming fellow. :lol:

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Originally Posted by BlessedWrath

It's also the case that Tim offers many custom machining services that could be used to create sound vents. If using a choke for a sound chamber, for example, you could get slots cut into the choke section. The only drawback there, aside from the increased cost, is the potential delay in availability; sometimes custom services are on hold if the backlog gets too long.

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Indeed :)
As an example, here is a custom mill service I've requested to Tim :
http://i48.tinypic.com/mua8p3.jpg
2 rows of 8 holes in the ribbed extension and in the choke, and a reverse sound setup.

And yes, in my case, credits go to LDM as I took one of his saber as inspiration and example for Tim.
Thanks LDM ;)

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Originally Posted by Jay-gon Jinn

Which was also pioneered by a prominent member of our community. He just didn't give it a fancy name. ;)

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I always thought it was called "The Jay-Gon rumble" :)

Drilling or cutting holes in a ribbed or grenade section and covering them with an overlay is one of the cleanest ways to conceal holes IMO. You can also use the same method with any of the extension/body parts with lathed grooves. And yes as a custom work fee you have them lathed in which ever pattern or spacing you like.

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Originally Posted by Crystal Chambers

Drilling or cutting holes in a ribbed or grenade section and covering them with an overlay is one of the cleanest ways to conceal holes IMO. You can also use the same method with any of the extension/body parts with lathed grooves. And yes as a custom work fee you have them lathed in which ever pattern or spacing you like.

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Plus we have a perfect example with your amazing saber Mantis (also a great source of inspiration) :D

I had always looked at drilling/milling holes or cutouts in sections like that with a critical eye. I know how sturdy MHS parts are, but it seems like a lot of holes in chokes or emitters would structurally weaken the parts (at least somewhat). I don't know, since I haven't had that service done, but my overly cautious nature causes me to wonder if it would be duel-worthy. Then again, I've only made one saber. I would defer to the experts on that one!

When I was planning my first saber, I definitely wanted the sound in the emitter. Because I had never done anything as intricate or complex as a saber before, I opted for the traditional sound setup. Next time, perhaps. Can anyone comment on the structural integrity issue?

Drilling small holes is unlikely to adversely affect the structure of your saber, even if you do several holes. You have to cut out a sizable chunk (like in the Starkiller-type sabers) before you weaken MHS parts enough that they're not duel worthy.

If I remember right, This was reintroduced into the saber community only after a year or so of it's origin by a member named DJtheinventorofeverthingalreadyinvented. Of course it wasn't quite as exciting when he did since it was like the 100th install after the original.
I could be all wrong about this though. ;)

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Originally Posted by grayven

If I remember right, This was reintroduced into the saber community only after a year or so of it's origin by a member named DJtheinventorofeverthingalreadyinvented. Of course it wasn't quite as exciting when he did since it was like the 100th install after the original.
I could be all wrong about this though. ;)

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LOL Graven.

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Originally Posted by grayven

If I remember right, This was reintroduced into the saber community only after a year or so of it's origin by a member named DJtheinventorofeverthingalreadyinvented. Of course it wasn't quite as exciting when he did since it was like the 100th install after the original.
I could be all wrong about this though. ;)

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Buahahahaha, brotha it was called thedjmoonbassreversesoundtrademarkedsystemandifyou stealitmygrandpaslawyerwillsueyou. :lol:

While I am still new to the Force, and its many nuances, I cannot help but feel as though there may be a hint of sarcasm here.

Hehe....yeah we have a little history here. While starkiller hilts aren't typically duelable my Raxis Primal hilt (contest entry 10 ) has a large window a little slimmer then starkiller and doesn't appear to weaken it at this size.
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...t=raxis+primal

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Originally Posted by BlessedWrath

While I am still new to the Force, and its many nuances, I cannot help but feel as though there may be a hint of sarcasm here.

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Nah, we are just talking about someone we use to know... Nothing to see here... Move along to Crystal's post, she has the info you seek. :D

I do have a few build topics in the "A to Z Build Thread" section where I did the extra sound holes in a ribbed extension and then covered them with a chrome or brass sleeve:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...d-AV-switch%29

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ideo-Build-Log

I have more builds that show how I do that style of venting, but most of them are over at FX-Sabers.com in the mining Colony section.

Aside from the structural issue (which appears to be a non-issue, thankfully; thanks to the experts for providing their experiences), my other issue with emitter-side sound venting was the grip placement connundrum. My saber uses BH16 on a Main Body 2, with a Box 7 positioned over the switch hole. I love this layout. However, I find myself gripping the choke section on the blade holder much more frequently (and more effectively) than the body, which was my original intent. The whole reason I placed my switch box up so high was to operate the switches with my thumb when single-hand wielding. Oh well. The issue I have is that, with emitter sound venting, I'd basically end up covering the speaker with my hand!

Any thoughts on how to correct that? It sounds like a great way to get realistic sound, but not if I muffle it with my hand.

I have a hilt that sounds similar to yours and I put my sound vents on the section the box was on. My hand blocks it a bit but it still lets some sound out and is better then just the pommel. Any holes on the length of the hilt will add to the sound dispersal. With replicas this is a lot harder since you don't wanna put holes all over it but with a custom you can make it part of the design.

I have another hilt that has sound out of the emitter but with the LED optics and BH as an obstacle it took some planning/serious machining. But it is possible.

Good to know, CC. I will put some serious thought into my next build. Emitter-vented sound is everywhere I want to be, even if it won't produce the cool "doppler effect" I want it to. It just feels...wrong...to vent from the pommel. Backwards, if you will.