besides roughing up the ends of the battery and tinning my soldering iron, I usually run my iron a little hotter (around 370-380degrees c)(wouldn't go above 400c)
helps get the heat in quickly so you dont end up heating the whole battery.
Printable View
besides roughing up the ends of the battery and tinning my soldering iron, I usually run my iron a little hotter (around 370-380degrees c)(wouldn't go above 400c)
helps get the heat in quickly so you dont end up heating the whole battery.
Is this correct?
Attachment 6357
4 x 14500 with no pcb
2 parallels to series
I want to make a 7.4v 1800mAh battery pack.
Looks right.
I am uncertain but I heard it said that rechargeable battery should not connect in parallel because they charge each other and exhaust(or explode).
Is it true?:(
No. Study more you must.
Sorry if this is a stupid question,but can you use battery holders in making a pack to avoid needing to solder to the batteries?
The battery holders have a tendency to lose connection briefly when you have an impact. This can cause your saber to reboot everytime you strike another saber with yours. If you're not comfortable soldering your own packs, the store now sells a wide variety of preassembled battery packs.
Sorry Az but you indicated that you use 32-44 mm heatshrink in this tutorial and I wanted to know which heatshrink is that? All the sizing is in fractional inches.
1 inch = 25.4 mm. The heatshrink you'll need to build your own battery pack is not available at TCSS. You'll have to search elsewhere online for it. Specialty battery suppliers often carry the stuff you want.
Thanks Silver Serpent, you have been an amazing help. I really appreciate all the help. Now I'm off to read the plecter labs PC v3 manual.
I had to redo the list cause I accidently cleared it. the great bit about that is that it forces me to remember it over and over again.