Force FX Construction Set to LedEngin RGBA, 15-color configuration with Corbin driver

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Originally Posted by Jangotat

Thanks for the response Matt.

So I hadn't thought about it before, but as I was looking to order parts, I found a question.
What settings did you get for your Corbin Driver? 1000ma latching?

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It was latching. I don't think these old Corbin Drivers allowed you to choose the current.

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Originally Posted by Jangotat

I believe mrfx switches to be latching. (yes?) Also the ledengin RGBA is to be rated for 1000ma constant current 1500ma peak. So when using multiple dies, the current would be divided between them, ? So all colors were about the same brightness, right? Was red alone about the same brightness as red and amber together?

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I honestly don't recall. It's been quite a while. But I can tell you that with this set-up, precise control over mixed colors is impossible, and red and amber tend to dominate when mixed with other colors. It would be great to see a driver specifically designed for color mixing, but I don't know of one that would work in a saber.

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Originally Posted by Darth Inferis

I have a question too. In the diagram in the first post which number legs on the relay did you use or does it matter?

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Sorry, I thought it would be clear from the diagram. The leads to the driver switch go on 1 and 7. (Polarity doesn't matter.) The positive lead from the 616 board's LED goes to 2, and the negative goes to 6.

Ah! That explains it, the diagram for the relay I bought is upside down so all the numbers are reversed. lol
Many thanks for your help Sir.

What an incredible tutorial! I have the 1200 mA version of the new round driver in a couple of P4 stunt sabers and they work beautifully, but I am not sure how well they would work for this application. There is also the problem of finding the right relay. So let me ask a different kind of question. Does anybody know the tolerance of the RGB that is being replaced by the LedEngin RGBA? Specifically; would it perhaps be possible to put a fourth battery in the choke tube and use it exclusively for providing phantom power to the original optic, even if additional resistance would have to be added downstream to keep the increased current from reaching the 616? I suppose a rotary DIP could be worked into the configuration if so. It would not have as many colors, or static shimmer, or flash on clash; but it might be an easier conversion, if the original RGB optic will actually tolerate the increased current. What do you think? .

Hello.

I know this is an old topic but I am very interested in doing this conversion to my MR construction set.

After reading it all the way through, I just want confirmation that if I do indeed follow this post, will it fry my soundboard ?

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Originally Posted by araffa040872

Hello.

I know this is an old topic but I am very interested in doing this conversion to my MR construction set.

After reading it all the way through, I just want confirmation that if I do indeed follow this post, will it fry my soundboard ?

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Most likely. As I said, that board is a terribly fragile thing. But you can replace the original board with just about anything and make yourself a bright, color-changing saber that also works as a Construction Set, if that's what you want. Color changing has become a lot easier and more sophisticated since I started this thread eons ago. If you want to try a Petit Crouton or Nano Biscotte, I suggest you ask Erv for advice.

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Originally Posted by Matt Thorn

Most likely. As I said, that board is a terribly fragile thing. But you can replace the original board with just about anything and make yourself a bright, color-changing saber that also works as a Construction Set, if that's what you want. Color changing has become a lot easier and more sophisticated since I started this thread eons ago. If you want to try a Petit Crouton or Nano Biscotte, I suggest you ask Erv for advice.

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Thanks Matt. I kind of figured that. I started this post in the "Parts List" forum based upon your thread.

Petit is an expensive board for a rookie like me to play with though.... Do you think I could get similar results with a Nano Biscotte ? Im not looking to spend a fortune, but most definietely want to brighter blade with customizable colors and better sound quality than the sound board the original has in it.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...on-Set-Rebuild

thanks for your help bud!
AL

Dont know if this was asked but what metal blade holder did you use?

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Originally Posted by emperor Vader

Dont know if this was asked but what metal blade holder did you use?

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I don't recall, but probably a Maul Conversion Kit. It has the narrowest outside diameter of all the blade holders in Tim's inventory. (Or at least it did at the time.)

I'd like to keep using the original RGB function so i was wondering if i could use the RGB Luxeon Tri-Rebel Star ( http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Lu...Star-P777.aspx ) to keep the basic set up of the mr force fx lightsaber without ruining the sound board? Or would a single led work better cause then i could get colored disks to change the color?
not interested in flash on clash or anything just want to keep the original sound.

thanks a bunch for any help and for this tutorial!

I don't believe the board will be able to power a Tri-Rebel Star. It was designed for a much weaker RGB. But you might be able to use Plecter Labs' Power three Xtenders with resistors and power them directly from the battery pack. But--and I hate to put too fine a point on it--I really cannot recommend this conversion. When I started this thread, our options for sound boards were extremely limited, and the Construction Set was tempting because of the low price. The hilts you can make with the Construction Set are not the handsomest out there, but even if you like like original concept, it would so much easier to put a Petit Crouton 3.0 in there, find a spot for the Rice Port, and WHAM you have precise control over color, the ability to change sound fonts at will...and you don't have to worry about jumping through all the hoops that I and others jumped through when this thread was originally active.