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I have to agree wth Maul, it is a diode, I've worked with them before as well. And resisters dont matter which way they go in, in any electronic items i have ever worked with. And when i was in school we were never told it mattered.
Now since it is a diode however it does matter which way it goes
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The solder points look nice and coned. If it came off that IC board, it must have been a sloppy azz solder job.
I pulled my AOTC off the wall and tried to gently open the speaker section to see if this diode was present but it's together pretty good. So I could not tell where it belongs..
Be nice if we had the wiring schematics for these things...
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Ok... this is odd, it looks to me like it bridged the two points right above the slot (next to the xy5... designation) which makes very little sense to me but it's the right length and those solder points look rough like something was knocked off... although that could just be where the leads were clipped.
Are there corresponding rough spots on the diodes leads?
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Yep, that is the place it most clearly fits physically, and the diode leads "sorta" look like they match the solder pads, but it makes no sense to me electronically for it to go there. I'm no circuit genius, but putting it there just puts it in parallel with the diode that's already there (on the other side of the circuit board). Any of you electronics buffs out there think of a reason to do that?
(and let's close the book on the diode-resistor issue, I metered it. It's a diode, regardless of the look of it...) :)
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I just picked one up off of craig's list for $50. http://atlanta.craigslist.org/tag/573458013.html Don't bother mailing the guy, it's already in my possession :).
There are some minor scratches on the blade and the covertec button is missing - but still well worth the $50. Also, under the clamp, there are 2 screws... one phillips head and one triangle socket (y head?) - which was the original and which is a replacement?
Wow this thing is dim in comparison to the string LED blades. And the sound has just started to stutter. I'm hoping the alkaline batteries that came with it are just very low. I just tried swapping them for some questionably charged NiMH and get the same sound stutter. Since it sounded fine yesterday, I'm hoping a fresh batch of alkaline's will get it back to normal.
I only noticed one clash sound when I was playing with it yesterday.. is there in fact only one?
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The Phillips head is stock. The triangular head is a replacement.
Lets see some pics :mrgreen:
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I'm in battery hell. The camera started complaining after just a few shots, and I still don't have replacement's for the saber. It's lit, but the sound is still flaky.
unlit:
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~rick/im...s/IMG_4437.JPG
lit:
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~rick/im...s/IMG_4438.JPG
missing covertec:
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~rick/im...s/IMG_4440.JPG
bad flash! supposed to be showing you the triangle head screw:
http://www.prism.gatech.edu/~rick/im...s/IMG_4442.JPG
I really need a macro lens... I wanted to show the 2002 date printed on the shroud, but I couldn't get a good shot.
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egads! I promise to resize them next time!
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im not sure if that screw was a replacement or not, mine had that triangle screw on the one side and a star on the other side as well.
i beleive the triangle was on the side that held the electronics and the blade and everything, so they didnt want this side comming apart, only the lower secion to replace the batteries and the reason why they used the phillips head on the lower portion so any average joe could take the screw out to turn the bottom handle to access the batteries. and keep them out of the top section and the electonics.
i know this post is a bit late as ive been away from the boards for a while but hopefuly its still some help.
and sadly, my anakin aotc is now only good for parts itself. blade works fine but the sound is dead in mine now too, oh and it was a diode that went in that spot, i took mine apart and found that is the spot where it goes